Get an electronic boost controller. It's a lot more effective & accurate. And the L28ET doesn't necessarily blow it's headgasket @ 15psi, but the injectors do lean out above 12-13psi & makes for good conditions to blow something. I had a stupid felpro headgasket that blew @ about 15psi. I only use MLS now.

 

Not so much that our engines are crappy or anything, but mainly the reason you were able to run better boost on your ranger was mainly because fuel management/delivery is a good bit more advanced than our primitive early 80's fuel injectors/ecu. From the sounds of it, simply upgrading to the Z31 ECU/MAF and bigger injectors you'd be able to run 12-13 psi a bit more safely.

 

I agree BUT......something about the "manual control" appeals to me...less wiring no learning curve...less hassle. I never had a problem with the one I made a few years back...I just installed it very close to the turbo and it worked perfectly with no problems. I have nothing against Electronic controllers I just want to go the easy way out with a quality part and a proper install...I am confident it will be fine. Plus I don't want to clutter up my cabin area with stuff. I know I know...I am retarded.

 

With proper timing and higher octane fuel I should be good...add the FMIC and I am not worried about 12-13psi hurting these cars...I mean if need be I can upgrade but I am just not sure I will need to....hell I may not even push the boost to 12+psi...I may be happy with 10-11psi....7psi is making my nipples hard already

 

The factory boost gauge is electric. You'll see the boost sensor located near the coil. It's not very useful, but I suppose it's better than nothing. The headgasket will be fine as long as you don't ping or lean out. I've got ~16 psi on a stock headgasket, and so far everything is ok. ( knocking on wood) My friend used to run 18 psi on his stock headgasket, but he's a lot braver and crazier than I am hahaha. Too bad he sold his Z, and went to driving an old school Supra.

 

As far as running it, I just meant going all stock and simply just upgrading the injectors, ecu, and maf. I think would just yield much better results even with an FMIC and what not. Although I'm not expert on turbo and know very little I'm trying to learn. I'm going to have to read that book maximum boost.

 

Well I do know that with more boost you will need more timing to prevent detonation and also higher octane fuel will help...of course with more air you NEED more fuel...eventually, depending on how far you can stretch stock components. I am still unsure what the flow is of stock turbo injectors on these cars...I am sure they can flow fine but it has been stated that a rising rate FPR can help also, and I am sure it can with stock injectors. So I am sure 12+psi wont be a problem if you plan ahead a little.

 

Stock turbo injector flow rate is 259cc. Older Supras (late 80's) use ~310cc injectors... Ford SVO's are 370cc, RX7 n/a's are 550cc. We've had a couple threads about 280zxt injector upgrading. And a RRFPR is a good idea, along w/ a Z31T ecu.

 

If you grab some RX-7 550cc injectors and just swap them in place of the stock injectors and nothing else, would you still be leaning out at higher boost, it seems like even though they can flow more, they'd be limited by the ECU/FPR. Although I'm not sure.

 

The stock ecu can't handle (compensate for) the larger amount of fuel the 550's put out. You will just flood the motor. 370's are the highest you can go w/ the stock ecu. 550cc's must be controlled by MSnS or similar.

 

I got on it a little more this time...poor video but you get the idea. The tires didn't stop spinning in first till i pushed in the clutch. Enjoy.

 

You need a cameraman.

 

and its to quiet. let her breath damnit! LET HER BREATH!!!!!

 

I have a 5 foot tall tripod...I should have brought that...cameramen can be shaky though. It actually sounds good when you are next to her...but yes I want it a little louder and deeper

 

rev it to 6000, then dump it!!! i usually use 3000rpm for mine, just loses traction, then hooks and flies. im gonna put stock sized tires on just to see what happens one day. 195/70r14 baby!!! can you smell rubber?

 

Yeah I am at about 3,500 when I launch....not sure I should take it to 6,000...might break something I bet it would light them up pretty hard though.

 

Well I have been driving the turbo alot lately as my daily driver and have been keeping an eye out for potential problems and current problems. So far I have found that the power steering leaks most of the fluid in 2-3 days time (problem is on drivers side) there is a very small oil leak (oil return line from turbo [gasket on turbo]). I just replaced a hose...it carries coolant to the TB from the thermo housing, it had a pin hole leak that was spraying all over the hood and eventually the TPS...and as we all know, liquid in the TPS connection = no go over 2,000-2,500rpm (problem fixed that day) Wen the car has sat and has become cold it runs very rough until it is warmed up....no idea what is causing it (I will take suggestions on that one)

All and all the car is very fun to drive and I love it when it is not raining and I can pop out the T-tops. I do need to bleed the brakes but I have plenty of brake pad on all 4 corners, I suspect the brake pads were changed not to long ago but the system was not bled...it will be this weekend. The sensor light is on, gonna have to unplug that connector. I bought a new O2 sensor and I have an O2 sensor socket but it just started stripping the O2 sensor nut so I have abandoned that till I can get an impact gun. FYI it is a 13/16th nut, same as the steering wheel nut and the lug nuts. That about sums up all my problems so far. One day when I don't have to give away my pay checks I will start saving up to get the body work done.....one day

 

When I changed the O2 sensor on my turbo, we just broke off the old sensor, so we could get a normal socket over the nut.

The oil return line gasket is super easy to fix, you just gotta get under the car.
How bad does your car run when it cools down? For me, my car just runs like crap from cold period, popping sputtering, etc. I've eliminated all my vacuum leaks, exhaust leak, and fixed so many things, I'm waiting for my new CHTS to come in hopes that fixes my problem.

 

When I haven't driven the car for several hours or more it's all sorts of a pain in the ***, so I don't drive it...takes about 5 min to warm up then the idle is smooth and it runs great. When I did try to drive it when it was cold it popped and sputtered and the idle is very rough, also smells of fuel from the tail pipe till it is warm then it is normal. The oil leak wont be a problem if I can just get the damn gasket...the Auto parts store ordered one from Nissan...$.93 part and I still haven't heard anything about it...that was like 2 weeks ago.

 

Just make your own gasket... Your local parts store should sell cork gasket sheets... yank the return tube, trace the patern, cut, install. Wa-la!

 

Well from what I've heard and can tell, your cold issue sounds like it could be related to the CHTS. Has this just recently started because that sounds almost exactly like my car. For some reason it just drives me nuts when it acts like that, where everyone else acts like what's the big deal? At least it runs good when warm. I guess I'm just striving for perfection.

 

Rough running when cold... check all efi connections, coat them lightly w/ di-electric grease, check air regulator functions, chts, afm.... yada yada yada...

 

All I know is, there has to be SOMETHING that controls the car when it is cold, something that holds the rpms at a preset number until the engine reaches a preset temp. It is this part, I think, that is malfunctioning. When I first start my car in the morning I hold the engine at 1,500rpm until I here the idle smooth out...about 3-5 minutes. Once the idle smooths out, I let of the gas and the car idles at near 800rpm...runs like a raped date after it is warm...excuse my vulgar description. I know on a carb, the choke handles all of this until the car is warm....so what is our "choke?"

 

its called fast idle

 

Air regulator....