Is it now....is it a device? where is it? Does it have a connection? Do you have a pic of this "fast idle" thing...if so, please let me see so I can locate mine and fix or replace it...if that works cool, if not I will keep searching for the problem. Werd!!

 

Is it now......same as above response to Snw

 

 

air regulator makes the fast idle no nismo? so both of us are right your answer acutally elps him though? lol

 

Ummm I keep forgetting I have my factory service manual...oooops sorry guys. Ok so I will look into the air regulator....but how do I test its operation...I have no special tools or money to buy them.

 

the manual tells you exactly how to test it. There are a couple ways, one is to start the car and while the engine is still cold then pinch off one of the air reg. hoses to see if the idle changes. If it doesnt then the regulator is inoperative (the reverse would be true if the engine is warmed up, then there should be no change in idle as the regulator should be closed). Another way is turn the car on (dont start it) and remove one of the air regulator hoses and have a look inside, it should be open if the engine is cold and closed if its hot.

 

I will do this Saturday morning when the car is cold....thanks guys. If this fixes it then most of the "engine" problems are solved...you know what that means....time to sell it and buy a civic or a del sol
.
.
.

.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Dude.....

not really, it will be time for an up in boost pressure from stock to...well we will see but I guess 10psi is max for now when I up it. I put some lucas injector cleaner in the car 3/4 of a tank ago and it ran kinda funny (kinda missing) but after I put some fresh gas in her (was at 1/8th of a tank) the "misses" are all but gone...I think it worked a bit.

New Air Reg from BD is $99

 

Well, if you need one. I have a brand new air regulator for a Turbo that I've never used still in the box. So if you actually do need one then I could give it to you for cheaper. Anyway I doubt it's your air regulator, because my 76' 280Z's air regulator is pretty much shot, and really other than having to give it gas for a moment, generally less than a minute at startup, the car is fine, but yeah go through and check the air regulator first. Don't be like me, buy a new one, and find out you don't need it.

 

Sounds good, I will let you know what I find out about mine. What year is yours for?

 

Mine is for an 83' 280ZX Turbo, but yours would most likely be the same since you also have the P90a, although I don't think there's any difference between the heads other than the hydraulic lifters.

 

Sounds good, it is the same for my '82. Ok well one thing down, I may buy it from you anyway as I want to replace alot of things with new stuff under the hood...sensors and what not.

 

air regulators are only diff from turbo to non turbo from what i could SEE, i wouldnt mind one because i think using my NA air regulator is causing problems (since the NA's used a cold start valve and not FIdle)

 

^ the cold start valve is only for start up. Not for the warm up period. It only activates when you're cranking then for a few seconds afterwards. The air regulator stays active until the engine reaches a certain temperature. They're independant of each other. Both turbo and na used the same method of fast idle and that IS the air regulator. The ECU controlled enrichment on both models via the fuel injectors. If you're having problems from a cold start then odds are if its not the CHTS or air regulator then its most likely a wiring/connection issue.

 

i think just the routing is different from the NA to turbo then, however my ECU ive discovered is not getting a tempurature signal from anything other than the CHTS which i know you need one more signal from that part up by the thermostat itself. idk....

 

Ok, I got under the car today to try and fix the power steering leak. No good. I attempted to tighten all the lines going into the main part of the power steering rack...where the steering knuckle is. All the lines were tight. I saw where it is leaking from, right at the top where the steering shaft connects...could be a problem...for now, till I can get it fixed, I am going to put some thick Lucas stuff in it to slow the leak as it is leaking a thinner fluid (ATF). I am going to soak it all with degreaser and hose it off. I am sure all of you can see how messy it is and it is not just ATF...there is engine oil too.

The engine oil is coming from the turbo oil return line. Though it is not leaking as much as the rack is, I was able to tighten both 12mm bolts very tight. It doesn't seem to be leaking now from the turbo. I am happy about this at least. Check out the pic of my spring...I had qite the nest of Black Widows at one time...I did notice there are no other bugs on or in the car

 

your black widows look like cotton *****.

 

I know...it's actually a black widow egg sack, there were five egg sacks.

 

I put in Lucas Power steering stop leak....it is still pushing out the thinner ATF but the thicker (like honey) Lucas has now slowed the leak considerably.

 

how do you know they are black widow sacks then? was mommy around? you should keep em in a tank lol

 

Actually, my friend and I, when I lived in Ga, had a female Black Widow and she made egg sacks exactly like those in the container we kept her in. The babies escaped through the vents in the top that were to small for mommy...and there were hundreds upon hundreds of those little ******.

 

Thxone... did you see my post a couple pages ago about that oil return gasket?

 

Crap man I'm sorry, no I didn't see that. The guy at the parts store suggested that also but I wanted a factory piece...which he ordered but it never came. I did stop that leak though by simply tightening the 12mm bolts...I got almost a full half turn out of both of them. Crazy stuff man...but no drips now.

 

I have sourced 90% of the parts I need for the DIY Manual Boost Controller (MBC) This one is going to be much better than the one I used on my Ranger. The spring in the pic was a pain in the **** to find but I found it at Lowes in the hardware dept. I spent about $12 all together. I need the ball bearing, the adjusting bolt and a nut to lock the bolt in place, along with some teflon tape. I wont be putting this on the car till I get my boost gauge. This little brass bastard has got some weight to it though. I may modify this design slightly to function better and I am going to drill the bleed hole in it so it can function better above 15psi. I wont be boosting that high, but ya never know. Hmmm still working on ideas....anyway, here is the pic.

 

Here's my adjustable boost controller I made for $2 as a test. Worked great...

 

Hmmm, what do the guts consist of?? I like the "T" handle.