Need Help on purchase (ASAP)
#28
There is a lot of good advice being thrown at you in this thread. Consider that the car has its faults and its strengths. But, I would not go there with $500 on the last day and assume they will give it away.
The faults....the rust, the shaking, the body work, the missing Datsun Z wheel and other such stuff are definite bargaining tools. Beat these issues to death with them....take someone with you that knows cars.
The strenghts....Its running (I assume), it has an engine that looks well cared for, a black interior that looks pretty decent, nice re-upholstered seats (although they are late 70's Z seats not ZX), plus the added "upgrades". ...Remember that there are a few things listed in the upgrades that end up costing quite a bit more then your usual add ons, not to mention that you may end up having to look and pay for those niceties all on your own, such as an LSD....quite desirable if they can actually confirm there is one in the car....plus other things such as the braided brake lines, disc brakes, etc are expensive items that are nice to have been added here already. BUT Confirm every upgrade they say they did.
The price is always negotiable, depending on the level of desperation for the seller OR the buyer. At the end, there is always a compromise.
In all honesty, the upgrades and the current interior, engine condition is enough for me not to low ball them too much. If I were them, and had added those things to the car, I would not sell it for $500 to anyone. Its worth more in parts and they seem like they know it. Just to put things in perspective...a pair of re-upholstered seats will set you back at least $350 or more. Sure there are alternatives but here you have seats that you wont need to spend a penny on.
If the body is not rusted beyond repair, just know that Z has a lot of potential...and a lot of nice desireable items that no one here can contest and almost everyone would like to have at least one of those items.
Ultimately the decision is yours and there are always other Z's out there.
The faults....the rust, the shaking, the body work, the missing Datsun Z wheel and other such stuff are definite bargaining tools. Beat these issues to death with them....take someone with you that knows cars.
The strenghts....Its running (I assume), it has an engine that looks well cared for, a black interior that looks pretty decent, nice re-upholstered seats (although they are late 70's Z seats not ZX), plus the added "upgrades". ...Remember that there are a few things listed in the upgrades that end up costing quite a bit more then your usual add ons, not to mention that you may end up having to look and pay for those niceties all on your own, such as an LSD....quite desirable if they can actually confirm there is one in the car....plus other things such as the braided brake lines, disc brakes, etc are expensive items that are nice to have been added here already. BUT Confirm every upgrade they say they did.
The price is always negotiable, depending on the level of desperation for the seller OR the buyer. At the end, there is always a compromise.
In all honesty, the upgrades and the current interior, engine condition is enough for me not to low ball them too much. If I were them, and had added those things to the car, I would not sell it for $500 to anyone. Its worth more in parts and they seem like they know it. Just to put things in perspective...a pair of re-upholstered seats will set you back at least $350 or more. Sure there are alternatives but here you have seats that you wont need to spend a penny on.
If the body is not rusted beyond repair, just know that Z has a lot of potential...and a lot of nice desireable items that no one here can contest and almost everyone would like to have at least one of those items.
Ultimately the decision is yours and there are always other Z's out there.
#31
that LSD already installed though is prett bitchin, but if he didnt do it you shouldnt have to pay for it. 900 is a bit high but at the same time, 900 isnt alot of money. people on here have gotten turbo ZX's for 500 dollars in about teh same shape as this car. you should be able to get this for the original 600 dollars just go back there in a few days with teh money, say you only brought 500 if he doesnt agree (bring a friend) look to your friend ask how much money he has on him (100) and be like, would you do it for 600 liek we originally planned. if not then tell him he can call you when it doesnt sell by saturday and for the 500 you have. the rust assumming its only what was in teh picture isnt really anything, but still rust is rust a great bargaining tool, the shake is mostlikely alignment or out of ballance rim, easy fixes. and the suspension is cheap to replace.... if you only want stock its VERY cheap to replace then.
#32
Since the problems are unknown, we can't make any judgment as to what it will cost to repair. Unknowns can get VERY expensive with very little effort. He obviously has a limited budget and needs to allow for that while budgeting what he can afford to buy. He needs to have enough left over to address any necessary repairs to meet his needs.
My advice still stands.
My advice still stands.
#33
Well, it seems like he may not want to sell the car to me anymore though it's still for sale. Don't see the rationale in that, I even said the car was a good car and that he was an honest seller on the OrlandoForums. I pmed him about what time I could come by on Saturday again, but he read the pm and never responded. I'll try calling him on friday, if he's going to be like that screw it. I'll just keep looking for a Z.
And again, thanks for your advice everyone.
And again, thanks for your advice everyone.
#34
yeah, your better off looking for a Z that may be in need of like paint or something, but try to find something that DRIVES normal, (just has maybe worn suspension but nothing you cant DD it on) and basically no rust and is running normal. of coarse then you might end up spending your 900-1000 dollars, but it could turn out being cheaper in teh end result.
EDIT: look for a sexier car to like an S30 instead of those S130's lol. jk guys. s30's can and usually are more expensive but imo a little esier to work on but also rust easier. and they are lighter
EDIT: look for a sexier car to like an S30 instead of those S130's lol. jk guys. s30's can and usually are more expensive but imo a little esier to work on but also rust easier. and they are lighter
#35
Hmm, there's one thing I can use as a bargaining tool assuming he calls me back. He has two keys for the car, on for the door and one for the ignition meaning that it's original door was replaced whether it because of an accident or maybe the ignition key was replaced because of theft or something crazy, who knows.
Hopefully I can use this, again thanks for all the advice.
Hopefully I can use this, again thanks for all the advice.
#36
probably just due to a bum lock, ive got that on all my Z's ive EVERY owned, lol.... its wierd.... for my Z32 i had THREE fawkin keys, one for the T-tops, one for the doors, one for the ignition..... it was WIERD. for my S30 i have one for the doors and ignition and another one for teh hatch. and for my 82 parts car i have one for the doors one for the ignition. I dont know how this keeps happening to me. if it was in an accident most likely the door it was hit on will shut wierd or make unnecessary noise
#37
Generally the ignition barrels on these cars just wear out easy especially after so many years and so many miles. That's why I'm amazed that my 280ZXT still is pretty much all original. Everything works on it.
#38
Well, this one's not a Turbo.
I wish it was. He asked me if I had talked to my dad again (he assumed my friend's dad was my dad and if I still wanted the car to come saturday before 5pm because he's leaving town for a few weeks)
My response:
"Yeah, I did. Sorry about this whole uncertainty thing, I explained to him the whole deal with how good of a deal it is, he's just worried about there possibly being rust on the bottom and how the bumpers and the tail lights dont match up. The lights are from an 82 or 83 ZX, The bumpers are older, 79 - 81. (He's a Z enthusiast though he may not look it, he just likes to play dumb)
He said that the odometer reads 30 something thousand miles but that it should be at least 130k since it only 5 digits for the odometer. He also thinks its a huge issue on how the door has a different key then the actual ignition key. He says that the car was probably involved in a bad wreck and that there may be some serious frame damage.
I told him about all the upgrades and how I'm still getting a good deal and mentioned that the shaking was probably because the right rear is definitely a 240SX wheel with the incorrect offset + alignment issues. I told him I was a man so I wouldn't need power steering (lol). But then he mentioned how some of the lights were to dim he really doesn't want to pay more than 600-700 dollars.
While he sincerely liked the car, he's worried that I won't be able to make it a safe daily driver since I only have 900 dollars and 600 of those dollars are my friend's which I'm borrowing so I can't really fix the car up right away since I also need to pay him back plus this week's paycheck will go to registering it and getting insurance on it.
But I'll definitely try to convince him, I really appreciate you guys taking the time.
I'll try to be there early before you have to leave."
EDIT: Yeah, I realize I'm a douche.
I wish it was. He asked me if I had talked to my dad again (he assumed my friend's dad was my dad and if I still wanted the car to come saturday before 5pm because he's leaving town for a few weeks)
My response:
"Yeah, I did. Sorry about this whole uncertainty thing, I explained to him the whole deal with how good of a deal it is, he's just worried about there possibly being rust on the bottom and how the bumpers and the tail lights dont match up. The lights are from an 82 or 83 ZX, The bumpers are older, 79 - 81. (He's a Z enthusiast though he may not look it, he just likes to play dumb)
He said that the odometer reads 30 something thousand miles but that it should be at least 130k since it only 5 digits for the odometer. He also thinks its a huge issue on how the door has a different key then the actual ignition key. He says that the car was probably involved in a bad wreck and that there may be some serious frame damage.
I told him about all the upgrades and how I'm still getting a good deal and mentioned that the shaking was probably because the right rear is definitely a 240SX wheel with the incorrect offset + alignment issues. I told him I was a man so I wouldn't need power steering (lol). But then he mentioned how some of the lights were to dim he really doesn't want to pay more than 600-700 dollars.
While he sincerely liked the car, he's worried that I won't be able to make it a safe daily driver since I only have 900 dollars and 600 of those dollars are my friend's which I'm borrowing so I can't really fix the car up right away since I also need to pay him back plus this week's paycheck will go to registering it and getting insurance on it.
But I'll definitely try to convince him, I really appreciate you guys taking the time.
I'll try to be there early before you have to leave."
EDIT: Yeah, I realize I'm a douche.
Last edited by raythenegr0; 06-20-2007 at 08:05 AM.
#39
you douche. lol, not really they were being a douche by teaming up on you, your just a dirty *** liar now. lol. i wouldnt make a HUGE deal about teh key thing he might tear your *** out by accusing him of putting the Z in an accident and not telling you.
#40
Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
you douche. lol, not really they were being a douche by teaming up on you, your just a dirty *** liar now. lol. i wouldnt make a HUGE deal about teh key thing he might tear your *** out by accusing him of putting the Z in an accident and not telling you.
#43
Does the key work on both doors? I generally think that the ignition barrel was probably changed. For being in such a bad frame jarring accident, the spot where the doors meet up and everything looks good. It wouldn't make sense that there was an accident that screwed up where the doors are, then get it fixed, but not fix the right rear.
#45
We settled for 800, I'm picking up the car asap.
But sorry snwbrderphat540, it's not a turbo
If the engine is still in good enough condition I'll turbo it and add the ZXR wing...
>_>
<_<
But sorry snwbrderphat540, it's not a turbo
If the engine is still in good enough condition I'll turbo it and add the ZXR wing...
>_>
<_<
Last edited by raythenegr0; 06-20-2007 at 02:58 PM.
#48
youll turbo it... lol, DONT!!!!!!!! haha, no you can but be prepaird to get in a pissing war with your engine, got mine running alittle better today just had to beat the **** out of it a little and clear up teh lines injectors and plugs, still gonna get a new CHTS though (thing actually pulled really nice like around a 6 second 0-60) and i gotta solder 2 things and move my harness up a little higher, when i popped off my throttle linkage it fell below it and i neglected to move it and it got so hot it was all loose and flimsy, nothing melted there, but it also blew off a small vacume line that fell on the manifold and started melting hardcore! lol it was soo smokey and smelly but soo damn funny. im still going MSII though screw this stock ECU sensor and harness crap, its all old and useless.
get some GOOD pictures this time, look uner the under carriage and see if itll drift lol, actually, get a picture of the REAR DIFFERENTIAL for us. im curious as to see this diff and what they used.
get some GOOD pictures this time, look uner the under carriage and see if itll drift lol, actually, get a picture of the REAR DIFFERENTIAL for us. im curious as to see this diff and what they used.
#50
stopping rust is easy assuming its not threw anything yet. get a DA sander and if worst comes to worst a wire wheel on a whizz wheel for that hard to get rust. and tehn you can just primer over it, rattle can primer even just temporary and primer spots looks better than rust spots. and find that vibration or w/e it was.