Hi All:

I need a Heater control valve (Water ****) for an '83 N/A with manual A/C.

Does anyone know where I can get one (new or used)?

Thank you!

 

Have you checked www.car-parts.com ? That exact part might not be listed, but if you can find a 280zx, that part is probably still in the car.

EDIT... I searched for you:

1980
Heater Core
Nissan 280 ZX G11403 $100 Glendale Auto Wrecking USA-AZ(Glendale) Request_Quote 1-877-616-7181 Request_Insurance_Quote
1981
Heater Core
Nissan 280 ZX 2.8L,FCT A F05043 $50 Catalina Auto Recyclers USA-AZ(Tucson) E-mail 1-800-842-7862

 

All I see new is for the Auto air set up. Will it work for the manual set up as well. That is what I have as well. Here is the BlackDragon page with the auto valve.

 

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SHC03/16-7648

$39.12

Wow... I paid $60 10 years ago from Nissan.

 

1 x ****-WATER (27116-P6500) = $33.80
------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total: $33.80
United Parcel Service (UPS Ground): $10.87
Total: $44.67

I ordered this one from CourtesyParts.com for my 83, I am converting from auto to manaul.
Courtesy Nissian.

 

Will these work with nn A/C car. My car has A/C but is not the automatic climate control kind. The z stores page said - "Heater Control Valve, 79-83 ZX Without A/C". Will it still work?

 

^^^ A/C = Auto Climate. You have two options: Auto or Manual climate control.

 

Dang you are fast to respond! So all of these cars came with air con. and non A/C means no auto climate not non air con.(A/C), guess I will be ordering me a valve then, thanks.

 

Base model 79's didn't have air conditioning. I believe all the rest did.

The water valve for auto air has a vacuum port on it, the manual air has a lever for the slider cable.

 

That is what seems weird to me, on my maual system when I move the lever form heater to Air it moves freely and so does the little hinge point on the valve when I move it and look under the dash. If the valve is stuck open wouldn't this cable and lever not move and be stuck in the heater possition? But it still blows hot till you clamp off the heater hose.

 

It's the bottom "temperature" slider that controls the water valve, not the top location selector.

 

You are right, when I move the bottom Temp. slider I can see the hinge point move at the valve and the slider moves freely from side to side. Does that mean my valve is good?

 

Why do you think your valve is bad?

 

From what my father (previous owner) told me it had started to always seem to blow hot air no matter what setting you have the system on. He had decided to clamp off the heater hose to see if that help but stopped driving it around that time. When he told me the heat always blew and that he clamped off the heater hose I just assumed bad valve.

I guess what I need to do is get a windshield in her this week and start driving it to see what is really going on. He said he changed out the valve a couple years ago and that he remembered it being an auto air system with some kind of connection of the valve to a coil or something. His memory is not quite the same these days so it is hard to figure out what he has already done to try to fix the problem. I do not see a sensor for the auto air on the dash.

 

There is a coil in the back of the heater box that attaches to the water valve via a sealed copper tube.

What year is your Z again? The auto air was most available in the 82-83's.

Auto:



Manual:

 

1982. In your pictures what am I looking for? Oops I see.... I have the turn ****. There is a sealed copper tube that comes off of my valve though.

 

Auto Climate Control systems have "AUTO TEMP CONTROL" written on the slider faceplate. And there indeed should be a copper tube.

 

Could I have manual controls on an Auto system and that is what is causing my problems?

 

Very unlikely... that would be a nightmare for someone to put together. Just replace the water valve already.

 

NismoPick, how do you know so much about these cars? Are you ever in the Lehi area much?

How about a auto valve on a maunaual system? I for sure see a copper line coming off of that valve.

QUOTE > "Very unlikely... that would be a nightmare for someone to put together. Just replace the water valve already".

But I thought if the lever moved and the hinge moved at the valve it was in working order.

 

I've owned something like 10 280zx's, 3 280z's, and a 240z. I've rebuilt mine from the ground up... unfortunately I eat, drink, and sleep Z's (no pun intended), and many other freaking cars. I live in Bountiful & work in Murray... but I'm rarely ever south of Draper (but I could be persuaded to cruise to Lehi if needed).

Right... again, as it should. That is how the manual water valve is.

Moves, and works correctly can be two different things. These water valves are known to fail / leak. If it can't hold the pressure, coolant will still flow into the heater core.

 

I removed the old unit and replaced it with an aftermarket manual valve that I located in the engine compartment to preclude the chance of damage if there is ever a leak. I replaced all of the foam seals and viola' - the heater and A/C kicks a$$ That is no easy task in Phoenix...