Bako88fan

Hi everyone. This is my first post here but I have been lurking for some time. I want to thank everyone here who contributes as it has saved me time and money. I'm in Central California and am new to restoring a vehicle. I just did a complete restore on a rusty, dual-axle boat trailer. It was pretty bad before but now it looks like new. My goal is to get this Z in similar shape so that my daughter can drive it for her first car.

I figured I would start a thread chronicling my restoration of a 1983 280zx. It is a red, manual transmission, NA, two-seater. I'm documenting my progress, successes, learnings and frustrations on this forum and Youtube. Please let me know if you have any suggestions or advice. I'd really appreciate it.

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Bako88fan

As you'll see in one of my videos, I can't seem to get the steering wheel unlocked, nor the ignition. I'm completely stuck. All I did was pull the steering wheel but didn't pull the hub. I never pulled anything off the spline. The only other thing I did was screw the trim screw to hold the cosmetic panel under the steering wheel. Could I have damaged the ignition by screwing in this screw?

Twiggs280zx

I definitely like the fact that your restoring it for your daughter. In my opinion it's a good choice as they are fairly solid. That and my first car was a 1987 300zx.

As for your project. Chose one portion at a time and finish it before starting another.
I say pull the motor (if it needs to be rebuilt) and tackle any rust on the front end while it is out. Unless you can afford a full body off restoration.

As for that screw in question. Take it out and see if the wheel moves if its still locked it is NOT your problem.

Bako88fan

thanks for the heads up. The body is in great shape, just the wheel well is rusted. Engine is in incredible shape. I've changed the fluids and it runs great. This ignition problem is the only thing keeping me from smogging and registering the vehicle.

I orderedan ignition switch for $20 from the parts store and that dis the trick. Looks like the vinyl portion of the ignition switch was jammed and stripped.

Bako88fan

No video today. It was too hot to try to put the dash back together and work the camera. Plus, the sound of the fan would have drowned out the mic. It was 110 in the shade here today. No end to this heat in sight.

Anyways, the ambient temperature isn't the only thing that got hot today. Last week, I drained the radiator of all coolant and replaced it. Actually, there was no coolant, just a bunch of rusty water. I replaced with 100% green coolant. I also pulled the thermostat because it was stuck closed. I took the Z for a spin and after about 5 minutes, the temp gauge showed about 230. I stopped and let it cool. I idled it in the driveway for 10 minutes and at 11 minutes the temp gauge jumped back up to 230. There is no fluid leaking anywhere and the plastic radiator bottle is full and it was bubbling. After waiting a bit and opening the radiator cap, the radiator looked empty. I'm perplexed. No oil loss, no coolant loss, no crack in the block. Why is the Z overheating?

NismoPick

You are supposed to mix it ~50/50 with water. Read the back of the coolant bottle. 100% antifreeze (coolant) is no better that 100% water.

Pulled and replaced with a brand new thermostat?

Bako88fan

I did add 100% coolant and can easily rectify that. I pulled the thermostat and did not replace it so that I could use no thermostat in my process of elimination. I was that an incorrect move?

NismoPick

Yes... very incorrect move. I suggest doing research before removing important items from the car.

First google-machine result: pros & cons of running no thermostat - Corvette Forum

Your engine has / needs a thermostat for several reasons, mainly to REGULATE the coolant temp.