Male

What woul be the easiest engine and the cheapest engine to swap? I wouldent want to down grade to a 4 cylinder. I'm gessing it's the l28et? Is it cheaper to get one of thouse running in a 280zx than a 2jz or a rb 25,20?

NismoPick

Please search. We've discussed this 1.2billion times before.

Male

I have didn't realy find what I was looking for

NismoPick

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...-thread-35327/

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...se-cars-35094/

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...elp-pls-33493/

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...et-swap-31963/

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...ne-$200-26003/

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...rebuilt-35045/

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...rite-up-32792/

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...cond-zx-33132/

WanganDevilZ

For mediocre power, L28et (Which drops RIGHT in, no modifications) , and as Nismo said once, unless an RB20 is "Given" to you, you'd be better off going with an RB25.

2jz? If you have master fab skills.

FricFrac

The L28ET is the easiest swap and it's small simple upgrades that keep adding power from there. It's a nice platform to build up from and you can get a reliable 300RWHP from the stock bottom end if you plan and read and keep your intake air cool...

Male

^^ those two awnsers are what I was looking for and will i have any problems droping it in sence mine is a 79

evandubya

If you read the threads NismoPick posted you will find that the recirculating ball steering box will be in the way of the turbo. You need the rack and pinion, other then that it's the same and will fit.

Male

Ok I was wondering if it was anything else so can I use the stock l28e transmition or will I need the l28et? Do I have to up grade or change the driveshaft ?

ThaPimpShrimp

You'll probably want to swap in a nice T-5

Find a donor car and just swap out the entire driveline.

Male

Damn well ima start saving

NismoPick

You don't need the turbo T5 transmission. All L-Series motors and transmissions are interchangeable.

ThaPimpShrimp

Wasn't the reason for them using the T-5 because Datsun's transmissions are weaker?

NismoPick

It comes down to preference, cost, and labor.

I've never seen any hard / factual numbers that prove the BW T5 or FS5W71B is stronger. I know a lot of HBZ guys swear the FS5W is stronger, but I don't think anyone has ever proved it (well... I proved (to myself) that the T5 is stronger than the FS5W): https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...2seater-34833/

For a stock L28ET swap on a tight budget, just leave the n/a transmission.

FricFrac

Personally I prefer the FS5W but I have the T5 in my 280ZXT as well. You can get a nice short shifter for the T5 but there isn't anything for the FS5W. I'd stay with the stock 5sp. If you are going to upgrade your tranny the 300ZX (Z32) is THE Nissan tranny to swap in otherwise the S13 is a good option but you need to keep your bell housing from the FS5W and do some minor mods.

As Nismopick stated there is no hard evidence. You're also comparing used trannys that have an unknow amount of wear and tear to another unknown tranny. They are close enough that there is no real clear winner overall.

Male

Oh ok but if I swap I'm looking for numbers from like 300 - 350 both tranys can handle that right?

NismoPick

If you want 300-350hp, CHEAP should not be a word in your planning (unless you like seeing your car go BOOM, and parts go flying, just like your money).

Do it right, or don't do it.

Male

Well not cheap I meant my cheapest option

Male

Well mabey 200-300 are more realistic numbers?

NismoPick

^^^ Are you just throwing out random numbers?

The stock L28ET is 180hp crank. A few quick mods and you can be at 200hp easily. Getting to 300hp isn't as easy or cheap. Getting 350hp+ into your car is expensive no matter what engine you choose.

I suggest doing research... it will help.

Male

I did/ am I found that you need to rebuild the head basically with a bigger turbo inercooler and bov

NismoPick

A BOV doesn't have anything to do w/ hp.

Take a look at my mods list (on ZDriver / Cardomain). You can also read FricFrac's turbo build thread.

Male

Well you know what I mean

Male

And ok thanks

FricFrac

Heat in the combustion chamber is the main problem. Taking heat out of your intake air is key to a proper turbo build. Here are some pointers - you're missing a few important key items...

- The 280ZX comes stock with a cold air intake system. When we start puting in intercoolers, piping, etc an easy mod is to stick a cone filter in the engine bay and suck hot engine bay air in. Be creative and get cold air into the turbo - if it starts cold there is less work getting it cold again.

- Compressing air makes it hot. The main way people address this is the intercooler. Your intercooler is very important but not much thought goes into it other than how big of an intercooler can I stuff in here? Remember the bigger volume wise typically will increase restrictions in your system. I would recomend for intercooler design to stay with the bar and plate design as well as a long end tank and short runners. If you can run same side in same out you can significantly reduce the length of your piping. If you can make the sacrifice of the A/C pump you can probably squeeze in an air-to-water intercooler which is 4x more efficient than air-to-air but comes with the added complexity of a water pump and extra weight of the coolant. I think for the S130 it would be a better setup. Another major point people miss out on is ducting for the intercooler. 99% of the setups have an air gap between the mounting of the intercooler and whatever air damn ducting might be happening. Make a duct with a smaller opening than the surface of the intercooler to trap air and force it through. Electric fans can also aid in increasing air flow and thus cooling on the intercooler. Another thing to thing about when selecting the intercooler is the thermal mass. Cast end tanks are heavier but provide a "heat absorbing battery" to get rid of heat until it becomes heat soaked. This works well because you are usually not under boost and it allows the thermal mass to recover to ambiant temperature.

- A hot exhaust side heats up the compressor side. There is a reason why ceramic coating and thermal blankets are used on turbos. Something that gets missed is that even at low boost the heat in the turbo gets transfered to the compressor side and can significantly heat the air. On a stock setup you're adding around 30 degrees C just from transfer from the inducer side. Put a heat shield, blanket or ceramic coating to reduce temperature radiated into the compressor side. A hot inducer side will get hotter when it's wraped and will decrease spool time and increase horsepower. It will also decrease engine bay temperatures. Do the same for the exhaust manifold and down pipe.

- Water/methanol injection. Another excellent way to reduce charge temps. Supercharger guys don't have the same luxury with intercoolers as the turbo guys do so often they will run air-to-water and/or water/methanol to make significant increases in HP. A topic worth researching.

- Sprayer for the intercooler. Use your headlight sprayer (GL models) and spray water in front of your intercooler. Use a micro switch on the gas pedel, etc to spray under full throttle, 3/4, etc. You'll significantly reduce the temperature of your intercooler this way and water is fairly cheap and readily available on this planet. Remember you heard that one here first ;P

- Turbo. That's a big one. The key here is efficiency. That's what does or doesn't add more heat to the system. Mmmmm GT35R

I'm sure there's more but it's lunch time