joel280zt

Ok, so fixed the power issue, now my car loves long walks on the highway and then idleing (and normal driving) and trying to kill me with fumes.

Ok so I'm going to fix all the wiring and new sensors I hope still waiting for information.

Anyhow can to much fuel cause the car to hunt idle when cold, some times does it when warm but general idles fine when warm (I know how to change the fuel ratio atlanticz showed me how with water as well) but just want to make sure it couldn't be something else.

I've D/Ced the cold start cause I don't know why the hell its needed in Australia, but can the thermotime thingy effect idle and a or stuck air regulator maybe?

(oh and there's this part with vaccum lines and a wire of somesort going to it there is no information on this device on anything for some reason anyhow off topic....but if anyone can shed some light i'd love to hear it)

The reason I'm asking these questions so if some one else has this issue I can right up if it actually fixes the issue.

Anyhow thanks to anyones wishing to share information.

NismoPick

Pinch the hoses connected to the air regulator to see if the idle changes. By "pinch" I mean, COMPLETELY pinch, like with pinch pliers.

Can't really help you with such a vague description... pics?

Switchtr3

Sorry to hijack the thread for my own selfish gain, but I too have a question about my car's idle. It idles perfectly fine when cold, and it usually idles fine when warmed up but if I have been driving for a while and it's nice and hot and I come to a stop at a traffic light or something, after a few seconds it will start to go up and down, almost stalling but not quite. I have noticed that when it's doing that if I take the vacuum line off of the pressure regulator on the fuel rail that it will idle a little higher but perfectly smoothly. Could this be a sign that my regulator is going bad? My entire fuel system is a piece of shyt anyway I probably need new injectors and wires as well (i really want a whole new fuel rail setup) but just knowing that most regulators failsafe position is wide open and removing that line seems to work it just makes me think I may be onto something. Any input anyone?

NismoPick

When you take it off the regulator, you plug the vacuum line that's still connected to the intake manifold right?

Switchtr3

I did that a while ago, I don't remember but I believe if I plugged the line it still didn't run awesome but better than it did normally. I'll try it tomorrow, but even so I find it strange that the car would run better with a huge vacuum leak than hooked up the way it's supposed to be. Just made me think that the regulator could be getting stuck or something