mjz

I have an '83 280zx turbo and need to rebuild the clutch slave cylinder.
Can someone recommend a rebuild kit supplier - that also has the little spring?

The rebuild kit I bought only has the rubber seal. I need the piston, the spring and the seal.

Thanks

NismoPick

Have you tried your local parts store?

AutoZone has them... $16

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=708545_0_0_

Tuners dream

I replaced mine about a month ago. I picked one up at the local o'reillys. They had one on the shelf for $13 and its been working great so far.

FricFrac

Even here where we pay a premium for parts locally I got it for $21 - hardly worth the time to rebuild...

GTR

Just buy one brand new from like autozone or oreilly's or some place...they're like really cheap ^_^. $12.99 here at AZ

That's for a master cylinder :P

NismoPick

Woops! I think I searched "clutch rebuild" and didn't pay attention after that...

Here's the rebuild (comes w/ piston, spring, boot) $13.99: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=708537_0_0_

Reman slave cylinder (available in store) $12.99:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...ier=25403_0_0_

Save a dollar and do less work.

mjz

Thanks all!

I didn't think of Autozone. My local O'relly's didn't have it.
The reason I wanted to rebuild it instead of buy a new part was to keep the car completely stock. This little slave cylinder has been with me since I bought the car new in 1983. I have rebuilt it twice since then - this is the third. Still works just fine (when rebuilt that is).

NismoPick

So you're saying that not even a nut, bolt, or plastic piece of the car has ever been replaced?

What's the difference between a reman stock slave cylinder and one you've rebuilt yourself? It still has new parts either way...

mjz

Good point ... I meant that if the part is metal - it has "Japan" stamped on it with the typical manufacturing for the part (Nabco, etc.) that Datsun used back then.

The rubber on the car has mostly been replaced (several times in fact). The existing fuel injectors were rebuilt and put back in the car. The wires are new and not "original" (got me there). Cooling system is original although the water pump has been rebuilt.

The brake discs are NOT original - I did upgrade those to slotted performance with ceramic pads. Stopping is much better improved - so my claim of being stock for the metal - on reflection - is not quite correct (although I still have the original disc parts).

Paint is original (and looks great) having been under cover and not exposed to sun much (59,000 miles).

Come to think of it - the struts are not original and were replaced with better handling ones ...

Oh what the hell - I'll just buy a new slave cylinder and be done with it ...

rogerz

if you need to do the slave you better do the master also. when one goes the other is sure to follow (normally on a dark and stormy night far from home)

mjz

Hi Roger - I did the Master first. No issue.

And I finished installing the new slave cylinder rather than rebuild the original first. The clutch is working just fine again ... nice and smooth. At least I know I won't need to mess with it again for a few more years. And this time, I better get in the habit of changing the clutch fluid once a year.

I'll rebuild the original when the parts arrive and set it on the shelf. When it's time for a new slave cylinder, I'll just pop the original back in.

Thanks for all of the comments.

FricFrac

I've replaced just the slave on three seperate S130's and never had the master go. Anyone else experience the master going after the slave?

NismoPick

^^^ I think he's just saying to do it all at once since it's cheap, and then you'll only have to bleed once.

mjz

I am rebuilding my original slave cylinder and will put it on the shelf until needed. Any suggestions on what fluid to lubricate the inside with? I hesitate using brake fluid since it will absorb moisture and turn to rust.

(when one buys a new cylinder (brake/slave/master), they come empty but clearly have something lubricating the inside ??)

NismoPick

Is there a mystery fluid people now use instead of brake fluid?

DOT4 yo... or DOT5 if you feel like spending a bit more cash and time.

FricFrac

I recomend the Castrol LMA (not LMAO ). It's a dot 5 (not 5A = bad!) so it's compatible with our system and it has a very good wet AND dry boiling point and is one of the least hydroscopic fluids out there (eg doesn't absorb moisture as easily) and it's pretty cheap. Best bang for your buck.