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Cams, Pistons, Injectors and everything else.

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Old 04-02-2012, 08:41 PM
  #26  
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Out of balance?

It's common practice to line bore or hone the caps and block and use oversized bearings. I'd go to a different machine shop.

http://elmersengines.com/pages/Machine_Shop_Service

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Old 04-02-2012, 09:48 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by NismoPick
Out of balance?

It's common practice to line bore or hone the caps and block and use oversized bearings. I'd go to a different machine shop.
The connecting rods boyo, the main caps are smooth and will accept their old crankshaft friend nicely.

I guess I could just get new rods, but, I'd rather use these, as they seem okay, that lip just needs to be fixed... I damn myself for throwing away the scratched pistons, as only the piston was broke'd, not the rod.
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Old 04-02-2012, 09:52 PM
  #28  
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woops... reeden 2 fazt.

They can still bore the rods and balance once attached to the pistons. I had that done on my first engine build (plus magnafluxed the rods).
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:40 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by NismoPick
The stock L28ET cam is far from limiting.
I have two L28ET cams, right now, neither of them are exactly... "Worthy" of placing back into a brand new motor, new valvetrain etc.

Which cam would be best, or say like, a stage I upgrade..? I'll probably stick with the stock turbo for a little bit, but eventually get into a Holset HX35

So, which cam is suggested?
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:01 PM
  #30  
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Are the lobes worn? Scratched?

Whenever I build a motor, modified or stock, I make sure it runs right before I dive into the odds and ends of "modified parts". It's a whole lot easier diagnosing problems when everything is stock, rather than tons of aftermarket / performance parts that make you guess what's wrong. I suggest using the stock turbo cam unless the lobes are damaged, get the motor running correctly, and then change out the cam if you want (I have a write-up in the Gen-Tech on how to change the cam with motor in car). Just "IMHO"
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Old 04-10-2012, 05:41 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by NismoPick
Are the lobes worn? Scratched?

Whenever I build a motor, modified or stock, I make sure it runs right before I dive into the odds and ends of "modified parts". It's a whole lot easier diagnosing problems when everything is stock, rather than tons of aftermarket / performance parts that make you guess what's wrong. I suggest using the stock turbo cam unless the lobes are damaged, get the motor running correctly, and then change out the cam if you want (I have a write-up in the Gen-Tech on how to change the cam with motor in car). Just "IMHO"
I'll double check any damage on the cams, they just look like crap, when I take the pistons in to get them attached to the conrods I'll have them see if they be messed up
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Old 04-20-2012, 02:59 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by NismoPick
Not to rehash the past, but we've discussed the "L28ET vs VG30ET" before:

L motor build questions - ZDriver.com



I don't get why people keep talking about the VG30ET over the L28ET... it's a pointless swap into an S30 / S130 unless you are doing it just to say you did it.

Blah blah blah... I won't argue a brick wall.
I was grave digging this thread, and found this on another forum.

VG: Better combustion chamber design, less prone to detonation (but not the best, by far), better response to mods, a bit harder to work on, uses timing belt.

L: Timing chain, sounds cooler, bolt on mods are more available.

I thought it was funny.
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Old 04-20-2012, 02:18 PM
  #33  
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To those of you who aren't friends with me on facebook, I got my pistons attached to the refurbished connecting rods I got a hold of last week.

Got paid today, money in the bank, soon, main bearings!

Also, does the main seal kit from MSA have the side seals for the rear?
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