Spudz

We need to know what the car will be used for .

Not much of a selection on Fuel injected cars. I think MSA has
a few different cams for the Fuelie engines.

Spudz

I know its a fuel injected engine , but you did't say what it
was going to be used for . High perfomance street , road
racing , drag racing , these uses all come into play.

Please don't use caps in the forums [img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img]

Bleach

I suggest you keep the stock cam. A turbo doesn't need a performance cam. And for a non-turbo engine you need to raise your compression to use a performance cam. For a turbo engine you need a slight decrease in compression for best results. I think you are looking at this the wrong way. You don't build up a non-turbo engine and then slap a turbocharger on the side next year when you have enough money for it. That's what Honda boys try, and they blow their engine and their parent's money.

If you want turbo, drop in a complete 280zx turbo engine and then after it is running really good, do some ugrades. If you want a high performance non-turbo, then do reasearch into that. The non-turbo will be easier, maybe a little cheaper depending on how far you go. It will generally last longer too. (assuming you are keeping this car for more than a couple years)

auxilary

well, you only have 1 cam to work with. But camming your n/a motor and slapping a turbo on it is not a good idea. While it will make a lot of power, it'll require high octane (118) racing gas in order to keep detonation to a minimum. Not to mention that higher compression and turbo don't mix for durability reasons. I am stating this basing on the fact that when one puts in a hotter cam/camshaft, one also installs a reground crankshaft, new pistons w/ higher compression.

in short, as others have said, you need to pick a route to use: either high powered n/a, or turbo. You can't mix both, because one counterweighs the other. You need lower compression and milder n/a settings for an engine you're going to turbo. Reason for that is when you introduce forced induction, your intake manifold pressure changes from negative (meaning engine sucks air in due to vaccuum it creates in intake manifold) to positive (air is shoved into intake manifold faster than engine can suck it in).



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'73 240z
'99 neon R/T

Bleach

Ya, you can call up Motorsport and tell them what you want. When you say street, like most people what you want is more horsepower but also you don't want to suddently have a rough idle and no torque below 4000 rpm. So you want a "midrange" cam.

Crane Cams also sells three grinds for the L6. They label them #1, #2, and #3. Basically #1 is hardly different than stock. Buy that if you want a stock replacement of your cam if you are doing a rebuild. #2 is great for any car. Street, just for fun, daily driver ect. #3 is a rough idle, mainly used for drag racing.

I got a #2 grind. (for my little Datsun truck)

Motorsport Auto also has 3 grinds. The lift and duration might be a little different between the brands, but are probably very simular in their results.