I'm starting the t-top again since its not deadly to be outside finnally. Now what put me out last fall was a seam let go between the floor pan and inner rocker. This is a perfect 1/16 gap from the trunk release to the ecu. Could I simply stitch weld the seam back in. Or should I metal brake a 90° peice of patch and grab the inner rocker and pan with some 1/8 plug welds?

 

I always overbuild... so I suggest using angle-iron.

 

In our neck of the woods we call that hillbilly pinch welds. Still up in the air trying to find a good brand of stripper. Like to get the under side stripped and patch up the lil spots. May need a new welder my flux-core makes such a dam mess. My buddy got that walnut blasting crap for a fiberglass car. Not sure if it got enough *** to cut thru "Rusty Jones" undercoating though. Plus what a mess!!

 

Oh and btw the Highlander quote is "I have something to say - It's better to burn OUT than to fade away".....

 

Kudos someone else remembers the 80s. Naw just a play on words during my head-gasket failure. Didnt think anyone would catch it so your the winner!!!

Anyway I looked into "Klean strip" Aircraft paint stripper. Last time I did stripper I got the 5.00 napa crap and all it did was make a agitating slime that burnt like hell. Ol Rusty did a hell of a job I tried a sample with a puddy knife and that undercoat is thick.

 

to get rid of the undercoat i find a propane torch and a wood chisel sharpened constantly to work very well. to rid myself of rust i use a twisted braided wire brush on a grinder and then just a cookie on a die grinder works well. to get in the corners and such i use a handheld spot blaster with silica as walnuts aren't as good for rust, more for gently removing paint.

 

I have some of that and it works really well, its thick enough you can brush it on and it sticks pretty good, watch out getting it on anything nice, I had a headlight bucket on a towel on our brand new washing machine, soaked through and took the enamel right off.