Omzy

Please help I've changed the fuel pump fuel filter plugs blew out gas lines fuel pressure regulator and air flow meter!! The car idles and runs smooth but when I press the gas hard it bogs down and dies, if I slowly press the gas down it will rev up to higher rpms!! If I press gas hard and quick it chokes out and feels like it's gonna die!! It is fuel Injected... PLEASE HELP !! I don't know what else to do..


I also had a ? About this turbo looking thing on the passenger side of the motor, sorta looks like a turbo or fan, comes up to plastic air ducts on top of the motor.. What is the name of this?? What does it do, and could that be my problem! Any input would greatly be appreciated. Thanks for you help!

masterhufflpuff

Let me see if I have this straight, you've changed the fuel pump, changed the fuel filter, cleaned out gas lines, cleaned out the fuel pressure regulator, and cleaned out the air flow meter? is that right?

so after it's dying down, did you try looking at one of your spark plugs? You can tell a lot about how a car is running by looking at the plugs.

It sounds to me most likely to be a fuel issue, but I think I need a little more information here. What RPM will it rev to if you rev it? Does the car smell like it's not burning all the fuel? What kind of spark plugs do you have, do they have the correct gap?

More importantly here, when did this start, and what did you do before it started? Was it after you changed all of those things, or did you change and clean all of those things because the car wasn't running correctly?

As for the turbo looking piece, i'm not entirely sure I follow, but if it is the part I'm thinking of, I do believe it has to deal with injection cooling?

If you haven't already, I highly recommend downloading the FSM that corresponds to your car, XenonS130 - S130 Reference it has many of the answers you may need, and the rest can be answered on the site.

Omzy

Yes thank you for your quick response, I have changed these things progressively bc of this problem, it does smell ok while it's running, if I slowly get down on the gas while in neutral I can get it to rev to about 5k rpms but if I put my foot down quickly it just bogs and chokes out like it's dying! I bought the car not sitting for 5+ yrs but it's got 48k miles!! The spark plugs are ngk from the auto parts store and I have gone thru a set of them already I took em out and they were black and goopy but the as far as the new ones I haven't checked what they look like now!! It's got new wires coil as well I installed but still same problem

masterhufflpuff

So what I would start with, give you spark plugs a quick clean, put them back in, and then rev the engine up until it bogs down again. Then shut the car off and check the plugs. If they look fine, then we'll try something else, if they're doused in fuel, then we have a start. Let us know.

rogerz

One thing I don't see is any data on vital signs. Fuel Pressure and vacuum for a start. you are throwing money and parts at the problem without any diagnosis. the injection cooler thingy might be useful in Death Valley but any where normal not needed I took mine off to clean up the engine compartment. Maybe if you drove at full throttle for a few hours on a hot day and then just pull over and stop it might be needed but drive normally a waste of space. worst case you might have to wait 15-30 minutes for things to cool down.

masterhufflpuff

^^Bingo.

These cars are very reliable, and the engines are pretty much indestructible. I'm all in for spending money if something for sure needs replacement, but if i can save myself a buck or two by running some tests, well i'm definitely going to. Add what Rogerz said to the list. Check your pressure and your vacuum, and read the spark plugs. There's many different paths this could go so we have to start narrowing it down, right now we're at the tip of the iceberg.

farqyj

I didn't catch if this is a N/A or Turbo, but from my experience I had a n/a celica that did exactly what you described, and it was a massive crack in my intake creating a huge vacuum leak. Recently on my zxT, I had a similar problem as well (not stalling, but dying when I got on the gas) and it was a really big BOOST leak, my J pipe was loose a both ends! Might wanna check for cracks in your rubber dude!
(always good advice)

Omzy

Thanks I did start spraying speak and water onto all the hoses to see if any bubbles or anything surges will Definitly keep that in mind I'm more than sure its something that simple causing the problem! By the way it's a non turbo

masterhufflpuff

^^Safety on the streets, and in the sheets.

But in all seriousness, yes. If the tubes haven't been replaced, it's likely that they are hard, which crack easily, or already cracked. Listen for any type of whistling under the hood.

83turbo280zx

check the CHTS and check the TPS

masterhufflpuff

CHTS will cause it to flood out after 4k and will cause the engine to just drop RPMs. If the CHTS isn't working, that means the car has gone into a sort of "limp" mode and will run rich rich, so if you can get it past 4k by revving it slowly, it most likely isn't the CHTS. And the if it's a problem with the TPS it would most likely be cutting out at 2k or 2500, also wouldn't cause it to flood out in anyway, or reach higher RPMs.

83turbo280zx

Nissan didn't have a fail safe or limp home mode back then. It may or may not cause it to flood out. It depends on where it fails. The CHTS doesn't necessarily fail in the same spot every time on every car. It could fail at the resistance equivalent of -40 degrees or at 100 degrees or at 200 degrees. It could have failed in a spot where it causes it to run extremely lean.

I know because it happened to me.

An easy way to test without removing the sensor and doing the FSM component test is unplug the CHTS after the vehicle is running, have someone holding the idle at about 1100-1200rpm so it doesn't die. This will command it rich, so it will die at idle if someone isn't keeping their foot on the gas. Then immediately do a WOT pull and see if it still dies. If it pulls hard to the redline, you have a potential CHTS failure. BUT that doesn't mean its 100% a CHTS failure, all you did was increase the injector pulse width and allow it to run more rich across the board. You could have another issue that is not allowing it to run at the proper AFR (too lean).

Then you would go into the FSM and do the component testing

masterhufflpuff

You are correct, my apologies, I was thinking in terms of if the CHTS wasn't being read at all.