thxone

Tools Needed:

1. Two or more Jack Stands
2. Wheel Chocks
3. 13/16" Lug nut wrench
4. Floor Jack
5. TWO 12mm Box Wrenches
6. One Axle Puller with Hook and Slide Hammer
7. 1lb Hammer or 1-2lb short handle Sledge Hammer


Ok, this is a fast and simple way to remove the CV axles from the Turbo R200 rearend. This should take 10 - 15 minutes per side to do once you have the car jacked up and secured with the rear wheels off.

Step 1: Chock the front wheels, Jack the rear of the car by placing the floor jack under the center of the differential. Jack it up high enough to get the jack stands under the car at their lowest settings (I placed a jack stand on each side of the car in front of the rear tires on the crossmember that spans the width of the car) Once the stands are under the car continue jacking it up to a comfortable hight every so often raising the jack stands so that they are no more than an inch away from the cross member. Once the car is as high as you need it make sure the Jack stands are also close to the crossmember at the same hight on each side of the car...lower the jack slowly until the car is just resting on the stands. Make sure the car is level side to side and make sure the jack is still tight on the differential. Now you have three points holding the rear of the car in the air. Test to make sure the car is stable and if it is continue to step 2.

Step 2: At this point the tires should be off of the car. We are going to start with the six 12mm nuts and bolts on the hubs. These are behind the brake assembly (see arrows in figure 1) These bolts have LocTight on them so I used two 12mm box wrenches and a 2lb sledge hammer to break them loose. The axles should rotate freely if you turn them. Place a 12mm wrench on the nut side and rotate the axle to brace it against the suspension (on the drivers side brace the wrench on the underside of the suspension and on the top for the passenger side) Place the other wrench on the bolt side at an angle and hit it with the hammer to break it loose...make sure you are hitting in the right direction. It will make sense when you are under the driver side and on top of the passenger side. The nut is the braced wrench on both the passenger and driver side...this means the wrench you are hammering is on the bolt and you will be hitting the bolt wrench in the direction of the front of the car.

This is the time consuming part as you have to remove 6 nuts on each axle. Once all the nuts are off and the bolts are out grab the fat part of the axle nearest the hub and push it towards the differential...it will move. When you separate it from the hub move it above and out of the way of the hub (see figure 1) Move on to step 3.

Step 3: Here is where the axle puller comes into play. Grab the axle puller and the hook (see figure 2) Place yourself in front of the disk brake facing the differential. Insert the axle puller and hook the hook end to the flange in figure 3 marked by the red arrows. (see figure 3) Once the hook is set hold tension on the end of the rod with your weak hand and with your strong hand slide the handle forward (towards the differential) and then quickly pull the handle towards your weak hand in a quick jerking motion (away from the differential, see figure 3 green arrow) Two quick pulls should pop the axle right out.

Repeat steps on passenger side. Prying will not get the axles out of the differential side, as I was told repeatedly until I tried it for myself just to prove everyone right all along. THEY MUST BE POPPED OUT!! Additional info was provided to me by snwbrderphat540, NismoPick, lww, and GypZ_Rose.

Fig. 1


Fig. 2


Fig. 3

NismoPick

You did a write up about this???

Prying WILL pop the CV's out of the diff (when done properly). I've done it 3 or 4 times on my Z, and about 5 times on other cars. Proper leverage is your friend... either way, now we have a write up!

thxone

HooooooWaaahhhhhhh!!!