Turbo removal
03-14-2010, 11:54 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 23
Turbo removal
So i dont really know how to go about getting at the turbo of my 280zx. I was wondering how i could check it to see if its working with out the engine on and if its not what the easiest way to remove it is? I looked at trying to take it apart from the exhaust side but dont really know so if anyone has any help id greatly appreciate it
03-14-2010, 05:11 PM
#2
Grumpy & Helpful
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mill Creek WA
Posts: 1,415
You can take the exhaust off but it isn't a lot of fun. Not much room to work there. There are only four nuts but you have to peel back the safety lock strip to get them to turn. then you have to get the nuts off with an open end one flat at a time. If you want to get the whole turbo off have fun. THere are those who say it can be done but my fingers don't fit that way. I just took off the head with manifold and turbo attached. Then when you break a stud you got a better chance to replace it. and you can see if there are any broken studs holding the manifold in place.
03-14-2010, 07:32 PM
#4
The Emblem Thief y0!
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Tulsa, Ok
Posts: 947
Unless you're doing an engine rebuild and have the motor out, and it still took me about 20-30 minutes to get everything off and replace everything.
What kind of turbo are you putting on?
Another stock turbo? Or an upgrade?
Or are you switching to N/A?
03-14-2010, 10:18 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 23
i wasnt going to put a new one on i was just trying to see if it worked the engine hasnt been started in 10 years and the guy who i got it from said that the last time he drove it the turbo wasnt working. So I think i'm going to have to try and fire her up before i do anything with the turbo if thats right? im not really sure id like alot of help with what you guys think i should do right now thanks
03-14-2010, 11:31 PM
#6
Sent in a PM to bdgerfn20... most has already been covered in the few prev posts:
The main way to see if a turbocharger is shot, is to check shaft play. So, remove the boot tube between the AFM (air flow meter) to front of turbo inlet, then reach in and grab the nut holding the compressor wheel, and check for up / down / left / right wobble & then push & pull. There should be very little movement. Then give it a spin. It should move freely & make no more sound than a soft whirl. Then, you may need a mirror or small digital camera, but you need to look at the fins on the compressor wheel (fan) just behind the nut. There are plenty of google images of damaged turbos and I have also posted pics on ZDriver.
Another tell tale sign is the turbocharger pushing oil out the wastegate / downpipe due to a clogged oil pass through.
So... to remove the turbo, yes, it is easier to pull the head, but you can w/o doing so. You will need to push back the retaining clips from the four 17mm? nuts on the turbo to exhaust manifold flange. Remove the oil in & dump lines, remove the AFM to turbo boot, and the four 1/2" or 13mm nuts for the downpipe, and drop the downpipe to cat exhaust pipe, then remove the j-pipe, and maneuver the turbocharger out between the frame, steering column, and oil pan.
Soak all nuts / bolts with PB blaster several times, and heat them w/ a torch before breaking them loose. And expect at least one or two to break completely.
Thus the reason it's easier to pull the head.
How's that sound? Hit me up if ya have any other questions.
The main way to see if a turbocharger is shot, is to check shaft play. So, remove the boot tube between the AFM (air flow meter) to front of turbo inlet, then reach in and grab the nut holding the compressor wheel, and check for up / down / left / right wobble & then push & pull. There should be very little movement. Then give it a spin. It should move freely & make no more sound than a soft whirl. Then, you may need a mirror or small digital camera, but you need to look at the fins on the compressor wheel (fan) just behind the nut. There are plenty of google images of damaged turbos and I have also posted pics on ZDriver.
Another tell tale sign is the turbocharger pushing oil out the wastegate / downpipe due to a clogged oil pass through.
So... to remove the turbo, yes, it is easier to pull the head, but you can w/o doing so. You will need to push back the retaining clips from the four 17mm? nuts on the turbo to exhaust manifold flange. Remove the oil in & dump lines, remove the AFM to turbo boot, and the four 1/2" or 13mm nuts for the downpipe, and drop the downpipe to cat exhaust pipe, then remove the j-pipe, and maneuver the turbocharger out between the frame, steering column, and oil pan.
Soak all nuts / bolts with PB blaster several times, and heat them w/ a torch before breaking them loose. And expect at least one or two to break completely.
Thus the reason it's easier to pull the head.
How's that sound? Hit me up if ya have any other questions.
03-23-2010, 02:06 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 23
so i have found that my turbo is shot and dosnt work so i was wondering if anyone knows were i could find the exact same TB03 with the internal wastegate in bc i cant find it anywhere. If not what are other turbos that fit into the 81 280zx and were i could look at purchasing one from.
03-23-2010, 03:11 PM
#8
Just take it to a local turbo shop & have it rebuilt, or at least inspected. I take all my turbochargers to a local Utah shop called High Tech Turbo. I had my last T3 rebuilt last year for $500, but that was because it had been sitting on a blown motor full of water for 5 years. I've had other turbos rebuilt for $300. Or you can always risk buying another used one... and hope it's not toast.
If you can't find a local turbo shop, call a local diesel shop... they'll know where to get one rebuilt.
I've had other turbos rebuilt for $300. Or you can always risk buying another used one... and hope it's not toast.If you can't find a local turbo shop, call a local diesel shop... they'll know where to get one rebuilt.
03-29-2010, 06:42 PM
#10
Mr Z++ Wiki
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 2,195
Sent in a PM to bdgerfn20... most has already been covered in the few prev posts:
The main way to see if a turbocharger is shot, is to check shaft play. So, remove the boot tube between the AFM (air flow meter) to front of turbo inlet, then reach in and grab the nut holding the compressor wheel, and check for up / down / left / right wobble & then push & pull. There should be very little movement. Then give it a spin. It should move freely & make no more sound than a soft whirl. Then, you may need a mirror or small digital camera, but you need to look at the fins on the compressor wheel (fan) just behind the nut. There are plenty of google images of damaged turbos and I have also posted pics on ZDriver.
Another tell tale sign is the turbocharger pushing oil out the wastegate / downpipe due to a clogged oil pass through.
So... to remove the turbo, yes, it is easier to pull the head, but you can w/o doing so. You will need to push back the retaining clips from the four 17mm? nuts on the turbo to exhaust manifold flange. Remove the oil in & dump lines, remove the AFM to turbo boot, and the four 1/2" or 13mm nuts for the downpipe, and drop the downpipe to cat exhaust pipe, then remove the j-pipe, and maneuver the turbocharger out between the frame, steering column, and oil pan.
Soak all nuts / bolts with PB blaster several times, and heat them w/ a torch before breaking them loose. And expect at least one or two to break completely.
Thus the reason it's easier to pull the head.
How's that sound? Hit me up if ya have any other questions.
The main way to see if a turbocharger is shot, is to check shaft play. So, remove the boot tube between the AFM (air flow meter) to front of turbo inlet, then reach in and grab the nut holding the compressor wheel, and check for up / down / left / right wobble & then push & pull. There should be very little movement. Then give it a spin. It should move freely & make no more sound than a soft whirl. Then, you may need a mirror or small digital camera, but you need to look at the fins on the compressor wheel (fan) just behind the nut. There are plenty of google images of damaged turbos and I have also posted pics on ZDriver.
Another tell tale sign is the turbocharger pushing oil out the wastegate / downpipe due to a clogged oil pass through.
So... to remove the turbo, yes, it is easier to pull the head, but you can w/o doing so. You will need to push back the retaining clips from the four 17mm? nuts on the turbo to exhaust manifold flange. Remove the oil in & dump lines, remove the AFM to turbo boot, and the four 1/2" or 13mm nuts for the downpipe, and drop the downpipe to cat exhaust pipe, then remove the j-pipe, and maneuver the turbocharger out between the frame, steering column, and oil pan.
Soak all nuts / bolts with PB blaster several times, and heat them w/ a torch before breaking them loose. And expect at least one or two to break completely.
Thus the reason it's easier to pull the head.
How's that sound? Hit me up if ya have any other questions.
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