i removed 3 bolts so far, 3 to go. any hints on how to remove the two on the top of the tranny? also do i have to remove the driveshaft or will it just slide out when the tranny drops down?

 

For the top two, get a 14mm box wrench & use a pipe as an extension (usually you need to press on it from the side to get it going). And yes, take out the driveshaft.

 

If you got some *****, you could have a friend unbolt it, while you hold it up and bring it down ontop your chest, then just wrestle it to the side.


(did a T56 (90 pounds) in a camaro this way once)

 

^^^ yeah... that hurts.

It won't just fall off when you unbolt it. Two people man-handling it is advised...

 

I've done that with my Z! And I'm about to install it that way too @.@ Those top 2 bolts are easy to get to with the VC off

 

about 3-4 feet of ratchet extension and a universal will get those bolts out. Helps to have someone up top guiding but I've done it alone at the junkyard.

 

i use a ratchet wrench once the bolts are broke free, the trans wont just fall out, i usually leave the x-member in while undoing everything. then pop it out and just wrestle the trans out. i can have a L series out in 30-40 minutes. 2 ppl can be helpfull for the removal, but it can be done alone. you can also jack up the back of the trans to tilt the assembly fwd and up to give more room to those top bolts

 

thank you for your help with removing the tranny, now i need advice on holding the fly wheel still so i can remove the bolts holding it on! any help would be aperciated.

 

Impact gun... seriously. They are torqued to 100ft/lbs+.

 

any one have a pic of the clip (Spring) placement on the throwout bearing and fork clip (Spring) I popped them out in not so much light and now I'm having a tough time trying to figure out how they are supposed to go back!
any help would be appreciated.

 

I put a tranny bolt back on the block and a bit Flathead screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel to hold it still, then I used a 4 foot breaker bar. If its still in the car, put a socket on the front pulley bolt so the crank wont turn over.

 

i did the flywheel by hand. sure i used a cheater bar. but it was PVC. i put a socket on the front crank bolt. it spun around till it found a frame rail. and boom your in business

 

It goes in the slits in the fork... there's only one way it will sit proper. You're not doing this w/o a Haynes manual or FSM are ya?

You can download the FSM at www.xenons130.com/reference

 

I have removed all the bolts securing the the transmission to engine. When I when to pull the transmission back far enough lower and remove the transmission, I could not. Which the clearance, I found the potion of housing which holds the starter hits the body preventing me from moving the transmission back far enough the the engine spline shift. Please instruct as how to move the engine back far enough to remove.

Thank-you

Sam Lewis

 

You are suppose to remove the starter.

 

He means the bump the starter hides behind. You can spin the tranny to clear that bump once your clear of the dowel pins. The exhaust may also be in the way. Depends on your setup there

 

^^ Yeah. Three bolts and the exhaust is free.

 

I'm guessing that while the tranny is off it would be a good time to replace the oil pan gasket and rear main seal if necessary? I need to replace my oil pan gasket and started out by doing it the way shown in the Haynes manual but that sucks. My rear main is leaking anyway so I plan on just replacing the oil pan gasket and rear main with the tranny off. Anything to look out for?

 

The oil pan gasket is quite a job in-car. We've discussed it a few times here, but with the transmission out, it should be easier to remove. I believe the other hard part it getting to the bolts directly above the motor mounts. Some have said that using an engine hoist to lift it an inch will help.

 

Been there done that, having a Trans Jack is so much easier, but ya, if your tuff, but the reverse process isn't as easy, but doable.