i just got my car back from the shop and he was telling me i'm not getting power to 4 of my sensors and it is making the car run rich. he can't do much that he does not have the equipment to check the computer on those cars . that P&$&es me of . so i'm driving home and i press the gas and i have no power. wow. and i remember wat one of the other mechanics said before i left . is that he thinks it is the wrong camshaft. if it is that would be the second thing wrong with this engine first it was the wrong head gasket . dammmmmmmm . but why would i not have any power to my sensors . does any one have any suggestions . i hope that is wat the prob. is . i hope so .. i wanna drive my z without any problems already

 

Sounds like those mechanics are morons.... They "don't have equipment to check the computer on those cars" but they somehow magically think they can tell if it's got the wrong cam shaft and headgasket? LoL.

#1... check & adjust the timing.

#2... make sure ALL spark plugs are firing.

#3... make sure all vacuum hoses are in the right locations & not leaking.

#4... do J's "how to rebuild your AFM" : https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/js-how-rebuild-your-afm-15277/

#5... ask those mechanics how they know it's a wrong camshaft & headgasket. Then tell them to F*CK OFF.

 

well when they put the engine in the car and put water in the radiator . water just litteraly pour out through in between the head and block .. i am kind of thinking that it might be my computer . cause of how he said that those sensors are not getting any current tto them but i don't know for sure any suggestions?

 

Did they put your engine together??? If so... wouldn't it be their fault if they screwed up?

 

Just outta curiosity, whats the casting number on the passenger side of the cylinder head? And also the casting number on the drivers lower side of the block (near the transmission).

 

Are you kidding? They put the car back together, put water in the radiator and it poured out between the head and block and you THINK it might be the computer?

What part of the cooling system does the computer control? The hoses?

If they can't get the head screwed back onto the block correctly, what makes you think they did anything else right?

 

how much you wanna bet that they forgot the head gasket, did they remidy this cooling problem, sounds like you should go get your money back for at least the labour, then pull the motor yourself, and start learning, prolly would be the best thing you ever did, hmmmm i wonder if they remembered the bearings in the crankcase, might not wanna drive your car till you find out cause you might damage everything so badly it will toast your motor. not to sound like a jerk with this, but what did you ask them to do? and what did they do?

 

no i bought the engine already built and ready for installation . i bought it from ENGINE DIRECT here in phoenix. and that head gasket problem was fixed and then this other problem came up but the head gAsket prob. was already fixed by then

 

how do i check the sensor . cause they sensor light on my dash is on

 

Thats the O2 sensor light. Comes on after 30,000 miles. You have to unplug it.

 

get a noid light from Auto Clone or napa, and make sure you have power to all injectors, also get a Haynes manual and read it cover to cover a couple times. the electrical troubleshooting info you want is in there

 

Did you talk to Steve at Engines Direct? What was his response to your situation?
- Was your head cracked during ED's assembly, through the shipping or installation?
- Was the head gasket installed improperly?
- Did you inspect the engine when you got it? It's a good idea to always use the gap gage and torque wrench to double check everything before handing the engine over to your installer.

I'm real curious to hear more on this one.

 

How about that 90 degree hose right below the front of the intake plenum?

Is it there?

Was the engine shipped without sensors in it?

Was the engine shipped with an oil pan that has a place to mount the oil temp sensor?

At the dealerships, I have experienced all 3 but a quick inspection was all it took to find them before installation.

 

i talked to JJ and he is one that sold me the engine . it was the long block head and timing set only and all already put together by engines direct . so all i had to do is give it to my shop for them to take the manifolds off the old engine and switch out to the new one. i bought a new O2 sensor and all new manifold gaskets . then when they put the engine in the car and all as ready to crank the engine they toped out the radiator with 50\50 water and antifreeze and surely every thing gushed out between the block and head on the side of the manifolds and i called engine direct and adviced them on the problem and they said to check if the head was on tightly and it wa and then said to check the head gasket . so then the engine had to come back out of the car and taken apart and they ended up finding out that when the engine was assembled engine direct had insdtalled the wrong head gaket . so E.D. said they will provide the right one and they did and so all was put together and in the car . and when cranked over it started but idles roughly. the shop said it was running rich at idle and about they sensors lacking voltage prob. .when i drived it home it felt it would run rough at idle but very lean at high rpm above 3900 rpm . between 2700 and 3800 rpms it run with out a problem . and it backfires when cold.

 

So why did you buy a new engine in the first place?

 

How long did the old fuel sit in the injector rail?

 

If you had problems with your old engine then they may very well have transferred over to your new engine. A new block doesn't mean a fresh start wihen everything else is used and not neccessarily in good working order. Has the AFM been adjusted since being installed with the new engine?