fuel regulator
#2
Originally Posted by efrain
Is a good option to get a performance fuel regulator? Where could I found one?
Try ebay... they have a gazillion fpr's... if you have a turbo setup, get a rising rate fpr. If you have an n/a setup... I don't think ya really need one... but hey, why not?
#8
I think Heat Rave answered your question... but I guess I'll repeat it:
Do you have an air/fuel ratio gauge in your car?
Originally Posted by Heat Rave R
Unless you've built up other areas of your engine, an adjustable FPR probably won't do much good.
#9
I've got to check. But I don't think so. I just bougjht the car like 4 months ago, so I am still getting familiar to it. As much as I know teh only extras that the car has are the one I told before: Well my NA just have headers, cold air intake, msd, ported, 60 mm TB.
#10
Originally Posted by efrain
I've got to check. But I don't think so. I just bougjht the car like 4 months ago, so I am still getting familiar to it. As much as I know teh only extras that the car has are the one I told before: Well my NA just have headers, cold air intake, msd, ported, 60 mm TB.
#12
I was looking at MSA and they have a FPR for $269.99
In ebay they have universal FPR's for $50.00. Which is the better option? Does the MSA FPR is so much different from the $50.00? Will I get the same bennefits from any FPR? MSA claims that the car will increase an avg. of 20 HP . Is that true?
In ebay they have universal FPR's for $50.00. Which is the better option? Does the MSA FPR is so much different from the $50.00? Will I get the same bennefits from any FPR? MSA claims that the car will increase an avg. of 20 HP . Is that true?
#13
Originally Posted by efrain
I was looking at MSA and they have a FPR for $269.99
In ebay they have universal FPR's for $50.00. Which is the better option? Does the MSA FPR is so much different from the $50.00? Will I get the same bennefits from any FPR? MSA claims that the car will increase an avg. of 20 HP . Is that true?
In ebay they have universal FPR's for $50.00. Which is the better option? Does the MSA FPR is so much different from the $50.00? Will I get the same bennefits from any FPR? MSA claims that the car will increase an avg. of 20 HP . Is that true?
The MSA one is a rising rate, and they SHOULD HAVE put in there that it works best on forced induction cars.
The ones on ebay (99% of them are the square box w/ the gauge) are okay... but you get what you pay for.
We can offer only so much advice. Eventually you have to make a decision yourself.
#15
With the other modes you've done, I think you should leave the stock FPR and get a performance cam. Mild or medium duration (due to stock compression). There's plenty of fuel stock, just not enough air at high rpm. The cam will let the engine breath more in at those high revs.
#17
No. The cam from a Turbo will actually make things worse for an NA engine. There's less overlap in the intake and exhaust lobes because it is designed for a compressed intake charge not a vacuum intake charge.
You need a performance cam grind for a NON-turbo car. You will actually loose performance with a turbo cam in a non-turbo car.
You need a performance cam grind for a NON-turbo car. You will actually loose performance with a turbo cam in a non-turbo car.
#18
correct. In actuality, the stock turbo cam is ALMOST the same as the stock non-turbo. I think I remember the specs being that the turbo was ~5 deg less duration on intake but the same on the exhaust lobe.
I once told someone that needed a replacement turbo cam that the stock non-turbo would work ok because the specs are very simular. I guess I'm not totally sure on that but it should work fine.
For your non turbo you want more lift and duration. Don't go with too much lift or you need to replace the valve springs with NISMO springs that won't bind up. 0.460 lift if max. Duration should be 270-282 max. Any longer duration and the lower rpm compression is greatly lowered and you really should do something to raise compression. That would involve an engine teardown. So bascially mild cam upgrade. Stage 1 or 2 either from Crane Cams or Motorsport Auto. Also, buy all brand new rocker arms with a new cam. Don't get the USA made ones, get Japan rockers. I think Rockauto.com has them for like $13 ea. Very cheap! Other places charge 20-40 each. These are Japan made like the Nissan originals.
Other mods to do would be to remove the head, port match the ports and port the intake manifold runners and throttle body opening to match the larger throttle body. All that along with the bigger cam and then you might need some more fuel at higher rpm.
I once told someone that needed a replacement turbo cam that the stock non-turbo would work ok because the specs are very simular. I guess I'm not totally sure on that but it should work fine.
For your non turbo you want more lift and duration. Don't go with too much lift or you need to replace the valve springs with NISMO springs that won't bind up. 0.460 lift if max. Duration should be 270-282 max. Any longer duration and the lower rpm compression is greatly lowered and you really should do something to raise compression. That would involve an engine teardown. So bascially mild cam upgrade. Stage 1 or 2 either from Crane Cams or Motorsport Auto. Also, buy all brand new rocker arms with a new cam. Don't get the USA made ones, get Japan rockers. I think Rockauto.com has them for like $13 ea. Very cheap! Other places charge 20-40 each. These are Japan made like the Nissan originals.
Other mods to do would be to remove the head, port match the ports and port the intake manifold runners and throttle body opening to match the larger throttle body. All that along with the bigger cam and then you might need some more fuel at higher rpm.
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