Turksspeedwerks

I got a 76 280 and it is driving me nuts it keeps carbon fowling the plugs and just bogs down smells rich eats gas I got new cap wires plugs air filter could it be a stuck injector or two or three?? I can say one big problem is that on the number 6 cylinder I'm dumping fuel that's all carboned up or maybe it's anti freeze ?? Popped the plug out on that cylinder and it just smoked and why I had it running and had the throttle at a boggy revving trying to just blow it up and it just bogging down so it would not blow it's pouring out I between the head and the exhaust manifold on the number 6 cylinder and as I'm doing this it just takes off to smoking then quits then smokes like heck again ??? Mysterious I know could it be a blowed head gasket or just a injector stuck and hydralicing the cylinder one other note is I'm running a msd fuel pump and it's carting 40 psi at idle could it be too much preasure??? Pleas help any insight would be helpfull

Turksspeedwerks

Update while monkeying around to see if this thing was getting fire to the cap from coil via a screwdriver stuck in the coil wire hole on the cap and the wire laying next to the screwdriver it started and purred just like a kitten I shook my head and said huh so I stuck the coil wire back in the cap and it ran like stir frayed poop again then died I pulled the coil wire and held it by the cap and it runs like a champ alas I put it in the cap it croaks huh??? What could be the deal a bad distributor monkeyed up wiring ??? Hold that coil wire just off the cap and good to go but in the cap no runnie ... Some one please chime in with a possible solution to this problem thanks all...

NismoPick

When you pulled spark plug #6, did it smell like fuel? Wet from fuel? Coolant? Pics?

If it runs better with #6 unplugged, the injector is probably is just dumping too much fuel to burn, so it backfires, detonates, etc. When you pull it, cyl 6 is silent.

Does your oil smell like fuel?
Try pulling the fuel rail (a stupidly tedious job), lay it upside down on a piece of cardboard on the intake manifold, and start the car... and watch the injectors spray.

Also, make sure the coolant temp sensor in the thermostat housing is connected and functioning correctly.

Lazlo

That's just downright weird. You can get induction across an air gap (that is how transformers work, spark plugs for that matter). I am thinking that the coil is sending out good spark but that you are grounding either in the termination of the coil wire or in the coil itself. Basically something buggered up at the interface where the wire and the coil touch.

Take a close look at both and see if anything doesn't look right. If there is nothing obvious, I would start with a new coil wire. If that doesn't fix it I would try a new coil. Not too expensive (<$40) and a worthy tune up item for a nearly 40 year old car in any case.

Make sure and update us when you figure it out

beg3yrs

I agree, new coil wire. Sounds like contact with the coil is lost when the wire is fully inserted in the coil socket. It could also be a break in the wire itself which temporarily "makes" when you bend it differently to touch the screwdriver.

If it is the coil wire, I'd go ahead and replace all the plug wires as well. They're likely to be the same age as the coil wire and if they aren't trouble now, they soon will be.

Turksspeedwerks

It's got all new Ngk wires plugs cap rotor and I was doing a Pertronics convert on this old Buick and figured what the heck change out the coil with the Pertronics still the same no runnie with coil wire in cap I've had a accel coil a msd blaster e core and a regular oil filled msd it ran best with the msd oil filled coil... So in short I'm trying to make the Route 66 car show in spfld il. At the end of the month so I just got out the ol wallet and ponyed up for new injectors and a pertronix convert so in about two more days I'll have a update oh yes I also scored a electric fan for the radiator so I can knock off the clutch fan for better performance

Turksspeedwerks

In short the injectors were junk and dumping fuel and the dual electronic points distributor was taking a poop and I changed the location of the ground wire for the battery

beg3yrs

Does all this mean things are working for you?

Turksspeedwerks

Ima hoping so the parts all haven't arrived yet in the mail but as soon as. They do and as soon as I do the work I'll give you fellas a update in the mean time I'm converting the back brakes to disc with 300 zx rotors and maxima calibers and hangers and FYI I did the disc brake conversion on the rear for under a 100 bucks ... And I still have the ebrake .. Cool hey??

Steve260Z74

What are you doing to balance the braking force between front and rear? Do you already have the 4 piston Toyota brakes up front?

beg3yrs

Congrats on the brakes. Photos???

Turksspeedwerks

Toyota front 4 piston?? Lay it on me .. I got the idea for the back brakes from a kit I seen on ebay I just figured out the hodge podge of parts 85 non turbo 300 zx back rotors (not the turbo they are 5 lug) and then it was on to the junk yard to get a set of maxima rear calibers and hangers ( mine came off a 01 ) and if the research is correct it all should work just like the old stock poop drums but way better and I'm using the stock master cylinder and proportioning valve but I'm thinking about scoring a adjustable in the future and I'm technologically challenged so when I find some five year old kid to show me how to post pics ima get y'all some ok fellas ... Hey if I didn't say it before thanks for chiming in to all u guys it helped figure it out

Steve260Z74

Look for the 4 piston modification on the Z Car Home Page or Hybridz.

So what are you doing that makes you think you need more braking power? Those "poop" drum brakes have been working great for people racing S30s in stock classes for 40+years.

Where did you read about the Z31 rotor & Maxima caliper swap? Hybridz?

Just be careful about premature rear lockup. The proportioning valve in the S30 is not adjustable. I'm sure somebody somewhere who is much smarter about brakes than I am (not too difficult to achieve) has found some adjustable proportioning valve that will work in an S30. If someone has, it's probably documented somewhere on Hybridz.

Turksspeedwerks

I'm adding a **** ton of power to the sun this winter a complete tear down and tube chassis this car will appear to be stock kind of but full on race car and sure the l28 can be built but I'm thinking it's time to update rb 25 arp studs throughout and a big turbo so the old drums just won't cut the mustard .. I seen the brake idea on ebay from this so called bad guy to deal with Datsun parts but the ol boy did me a solid on enlightening me to what rotors he uses in his kit he sells on ebay for 700 bucks and this so called bad guy to deal with didn't charge me a nickel he just said good luck ... Not a bad fellow like everyone says in fact I have bought parts from him and they were spot on and shipped fast I got under a 100 bucks and the stock proportioning valve works well but after the winter rebuild I'll just grab a adjustable valve from jeggs or summit

Turksspeedwerks

Under a 100 into the back brake conversion

Steve260Z74

Al isn't a bad guy. He's a crappy mechanic and crappy parts restorer.

Turksspeedwerks

Lol that could be true I've never seen his work to see if he was in the know or not