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Repairing Lady. (74 260z)

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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 08:43 PM
  #251  
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Steering **** on a manual steering system on a street car? You're nuts. haha

Looks like a fun low budget car. Pretty sweet.
Been there, and done that with the gas tank. hahaha
Old Nov 24, 2008 | 08:50 PM
  #252  
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you wanna see a circus show? try shiftin the damn thing in curve, turning on the blinker, while using that steering ****. the blinker switch is that bundle of black wires hangin down in front of the shifter. I swear i heard a clown laughing when i did that.
Old Nov 24, 2008 | 10:02 PM
  #253  
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can you do me a favor and spray the interior of the car so it isnt dog poop white anymore? spray the floors and stuff a nice glossy black. also, sun roof huh?
Old Nov 24, 2008 | 10:07 PM
  #254  
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after i get all the holes patched up i had actually planned on using truck bed liner on the floor pans. and other rust susceptible areas.
Old Nov 24, 2008 | 10:21 PM
  #255  
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just do the whole thing end the possibility of rust all together.
Old Nov 24, 2008 | 10:27 PM
  #256  
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That would be heavy...
I was doing the same with my truck. The interior and what parts of the bed were not wood were lined. I would just hose the mud out of the inside. It was a beautiful thing.


Are you installing a fuel cell?
Old Nov 24, 2008 | 10:36 PM
  #257  
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haha, i've been "Installing" that fuel cell for a few months now. i've got the cell, and the cradle. just need to get the darn thing put in. never have the time.
Old Nov 24, 2008 | 10:46 PM
  #258  
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I know the feeling. Now I have a ton of time and no money. That is the first major mod to my car. Going to be a fuel cell. I hate the stock tank, and whatever the PO did to it when he lined it. POS clogs my filter and pump every other week. A fuel jug like you have would be way less stressful. haha
Old Apr 13, 2009 | 05:49 PM
  #259  
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Well, i picked up the 215 aluminum block. Got it for free with a bunch of goodies to go with it including a stroker crank. the block is actually a later Triumph TR8 motor so it doesn't have the casting flaws of its buick predecessors. I've lready started sourcing parts to rebuild and complete the engine (heads missing). Different pistons to raise comp ratio, better cam, stage one heads, and this little 375lb 3.5liter v8 n/a can pump out 200bhp with ease. i know its not alot, but its a lighter, and shorter block than the l28, so while the raw horse isn't much more, the power to weight ratio is alot better. And i found a place that makes bellhousings to mate these lil aluminum blocks to the mustang t-5 5speed tansmission. This lil engine will probably be a while in the making, so in the mean time i'm going to continue to work on the body and other systems a lil at a time.
Old Apr 13, 2009 | 06:54 PM
  #260  
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Originally Posted by JPerkins
Well, i picked up the 215 aluminum block. Got it for free with a bunch of goodies to go with it including a stroker crank. the block is actually a later Triumph TR8 motor so it doesn't have the casting flaws of its buick predecessors. I've lready started sourcing parts to rebuild and complete the engine (heads missing). Different pistons to raise comp ratio, better cam, stage one heads, and this little 375lb 3.5liter v8 n/a can pump out 200bhp with ease. i know its not alot, but its a lighter, and shorter block than the l28, so while the raw horse isn't much more, the power to weight ratio is alot better. And i found a place that makes bellhousings to mate these lil aluminum blocks to the mustang t-5 5speed tansmission. This lil engine will probably be a while in the making, so in the mean time i'm going to continue to work on the body and other systems a lil at a time.
Jess a little at a time...are there mounts for that engine?
Old Apr 14, 2009 | 03:26 PM
  #261  
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d&d fabrication makes motor mounts for this engine to swap into an MG. Besides. the motor mounts for this engine can't be that hard to fab up. maybe spend some time taking measurements and draw up a way to use the stock motor mounting points. Either way, thats a bridge a good ways away right now.
Old Apr 20, 2009 | 09:43 PM
  #262  
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2 things you don't want to find in an engine.

1: rust - #4 cylinder wall is rusted bad enough that the piston won't move at all.

2: Peanut Butter - dropped the oil pan and everything was still coated in oil below the pistons. unfortunately it was the color and consistency of soggy peanut butter and maple syrup.

once i find a way to free that piston up in #4, i'll have to find out how far out you can bore the cyclinders before integrity begins to suffer.
Old Apr 20, 2009 | 10:21 PM
  #263  
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in V8's doens't seem people go to large over .020 is typically the largest i see. not going to see much from a over bore unless you go nuts though or stroke it. so i would just go with something average and that removes all the crap from your cylinder walls.
Old Apr 21, 2009 | 03:00 PM
  #264  
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well crap. 24hrs with the cylinder filled with PB blaster and a generous dose of beating it with the hammer and the thing still hasn't budged.

the impatient part of me is thinking about getting a 2inch thick slab of steel with a grease fitting welded in it, bolt it down over that cylinder and pump that bitch up with about 2-3k PSI of axle grease. i might be digging that piston out of the wall in the garage three houses over, but damnit, it'll be free.
Old Apr 23, 2009 | 05:09 PM
  #265  
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1: take block off engine stand
2: place block on floor
3: put a 2x4 in the cylinder
4: hit it with an over-the-shoulder swing with a 20lb sledge. Big hint: Don't F***ing Miss!!
5: do not ever intend to use that piston as anything other than fishing weight

its brutal, its careless, its neanderthal, it fraggin worked.
Old Apr 23, 2009 | 08:51 PM
  #266  
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Originally Posted by JPerkins
1: take block off engine stand
2: place block on floor
3: put a 2x4 in the cylinder
4: hit it with an over-the-shoulder swing with a 20lb sledge. Big hint: Don't F***ing Miss!!
5: do not ever intend to use that piston as anything other than fishing weight

its brutal, its careless, its neanderthal, it fraggin worked.
military ingenuity at it's finest
Old Apr 23, 2009 | 08:53 PM
  #267  
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Originally Posted by JPerkins
1: take block off engine stand
2: place block on floor
3: put a 2x4 in the cylinder
4: hit it with an over-the-shoulder swing with a 20lb sledge. Big hint: Don't F***ing Miss!!
5: do not ever intend to use that piston as anything other than fishing weight

its brutal, its careless, its neanderthal, it fraggin worked.
BF&I (brute force and ignorance) one of my favorite concepts
Old Apr 28, 2009 | 05:09 PM
  #268  
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well, that blocks a boat anchor. rust ate too much of the cylinder walls. it was pitted so bad the guy at the machine shop didn't even look at it twice. named the block as rover and even named the rover it came out of (triumph tr8) before i got the chance to say, so the guy knows his stuff. he also knew that rover cast thier blocks with the cylinder sleeves already in, so they can't be punched and resleeved.

10 minutes later i found a oldsmobile 215 long block with auto trans out of a 62 cutlass convertible minus heads for 200.00 and the cylinder bores are in hella better shape. and its got all the goodies the freeby block didn't.
Old May 13, 2009 | 07:15 PM
  #269  
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woot~! finally got that Jegs race seat put in. adapter plate was necessary to use stock mounting points.
Old May 13, 2009 | 07:27 PM
  #270  
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need an engine. lol
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