Valve and time adjustment clearances on a Shneider 274F Camshaft - Page 2 - ZDriver.com


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Old 02-24-2017, 01:35 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theramz View Post
#3 plug is fouled or bad plug wire. Carbs are gummed up.
Throw that Haynes in the trash, tell your wanna be mechanic to FO. Download the FSM. The SU carbs are very simple. Make sure your chokes are open all the way. You can do this!
I have a couple of additional queries regarding this old post:

1. If i decide to adjust the valve clearances on my 1972 240z with Shneider 274F in COLD, are the clearances as follows:

Intake Valve Lash: .008"

Exhaust Valve Lash: .010"


2. Any recommended procedure to adjust the valves in cold? Any video?

3. I want to be able to get a fast response when accelarating from stops at 1st gear! Do you recommend 14btdc at idle instead of 10 btdc with this cam:

274F Datsun L-6 Camshaft

4. My last concern is the time it is taking for the car to warm up as i have removed the inline manifold thermostat from the circuit and replaced the 170F thermostat with a 160F thermostat. I need to drive with the choke for at least 7 minutes until the car starts to respond correctly. Is this normal? I removed the manifold and block this line as the heated wter that was passing in the rear of both carbs was causing fuel percolation at the float bowls of the SU CARBURETORS. Temperature in Panama is 33 C Tropical hot weather.

Looking forward to your recommendations.
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Old 02-26-2017, 07:25 PM   #27
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Okay you need to know the manufactures settings. Usually valve clearance is slightly more on hipo cams. I think .010 and .012 is a good start.
You can set half of them with the timing mark at TDC "0". On the next revolution of the crank at TDC you can set the rest of them. It will be pretty obvious which ones are at the top. Adjust only the valves that allow the feeler gauge in.
Another method is to bump the starter until you see the valve go down and return to the top with the adjacent valve going down. Do one cylinder at a time, intake and exhaust then move to the next front to back so you don't miss any.
L6 engines are cold blooded. I would use a 180 thermostat. It will warm up faster and when it reaches 180 it will open and stay at that temp unless you're sitting in traffic. If you have overheating problems a bigger radiator is necessary.
Advancing the dizzy would also be to Cam makers recommendation, 12 degrees should be good. Check to see that your vacuum advance is working with a vacuum type pump. The point breaker plate should move freely and return. A Pertronics won't do any good if the vacuum/mechanical advance doesn't work right.
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Old 05-01-2017, 08:20 AM   #28
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nice advice!!! valves were adjusted. Still have fuel percolation issues at the carbs. trying to solve. I guess i will need to find a better heat shield and insulator.
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