RodMoyes

So,

Did some long overdue work on the Z today. I've NEVER adjusted my valves since I have owned the car. They never really made a lot of noise. Well, after adjusting them according to spec they are MUCH louder than before. Now I ran out of time and didn't get around to changing the oil but, it's Royal Purple Synth oil that is in there and it only has but maybe 1200 miles or so on it. I'm hoping that changing it will quiet them down. Otherwise, I may have to do it again. (Adjusted them with the motor warm and to the specs for a warm engine by the way...)

Has anybody ever experienced this? I have heard that valve adjustment is really crucial and regularly needed on this motor. I feel like an idiot for never having done it, but I'm stumped as to why they are noisier now than before. Only a few were really off and they weren't that bad. I only made some very minor adjustments.

Well, the valve cover gasket was leaking so of course I replaced it.

An old vendor from my previous occupation HOOKED ME UP. I got 6 BRAND NEW injectors for $27.50 each! I had my old ones rebuilt about 3 years ago but I thought it was time for some new ones. They will go in tomorrow.

I had an AFM on order from MSA (Which they still don't have) but I'm cancelling it, because he is getting me a "Python" Reman for $125.00 !!!!

I put some new NGK's in today, replaced the fuel filter, New battery hold down, PCV valve. The hose from the PCV valve is WASTED and I can't find a replacement... Any one know where to find one?

Anyway's, I'll throw in the new injectors tomorrow and change the oil then see how the valves sound.


Rod.

Carl's Z

I've read many times that people that have their valves adjusted run into the same thing. There was some talk about it on Zcar sometime ago, and there is a way to do the adjustment to make them quieter. It has to do with how far you tighten the one nut before tightening the other, but I can't quite remember. It's probably in "Blue's Tech Tips" on their site. I had mine done about 3 years ago by guy I know in town here, but didn't really notice a big difference afterward, but then, they were'nt that noisy to begin with. I'll see if I can find it for you...

Carl's Z

Here it is....

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/v...ust/index.html

Also, here's a good thread on valve adjustment...


http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=686568&t=686565#reply_686568

Hope it helps...

Carl

PS: I'm not trying to insult your intelligence, just trying to be helpful in any way I can...

NismoPick

Rod,

I adjusted mine twice after I swapped in my L28ET. The first time improved, but it still had some clacking so I adjusted a second time & made the clearances tighter.

Did you do this while the engine was hot? You've only got about 30 minutes to get acurate adjustments before the metal cools just enough to make measurements incorrect.

RodMoyes

Carl, Nismo...

Thanks, I'm going to re-do them today and see what I did wrong. The motor was hot, but maybe not hot enough. Of course after reading all those links I have noticed that there are several ideas on how to do it best. I'll play with it and see what happens.

Thanks again,

Rod.

P.S.

I can't believe nobody called me a Bastard for getting my brand new Injectors so cheap

CraigS

Bastard.


And a question, one link that carl put up had the heights for hot or cold, is there a difference in why you would do it hot?

CraigS

In the name of Rod, I had to throw this up.

Carl's Z

Anyone who owns the "Legendary Beast" cannot be called a bastard...

NismoPick

Metal expands when it's hot (ever heard the ticking when you turn off a hot car... metal contracting as it cools). Your engine runs hot... so you should adjust the valves at running temp.

hoov100

(running rocker adjustment, 3 in the morning, open header..)

RodMoyes

Dude,

Thanks, but the only thing "Legendary" about my car is how many times it's been defiled by careless morons and how it looks a thousand times faster than it actually is.


Rod.

SHADY280

mine always have made noise every since the new cam and rockers. any one ive seen adjusted makes noise. it seems to change the pattern a little bit. im gonna read those linkies when i got more time.

snwbrderphat540

i have to adjust mine... they are uber loose.... and louder than any valves ive ever heard. the guy loosened them up cause i forget why had a legit reason. i just can remeber.. but.... first i gotta swap in the engine harnesses and ECU and then start her up!!!!!! and put the drive shaft up

RodMoyes

Well, new injectors are in. Re-adjusted the valves and double checked them. they're still noisier than before but not too bad I guess. I think maybe it's just the 250K miles on that motor. Still idles a little rough but has great get up and go compared to ever before. New AFM should be here in a few days and I'll see how it does then.


Rod.

NismoPick

Alright, just to double check...

-Were you moving the feeler gauge as you tightened the locknut?
--When the correct clearance is met, the feeler should have drag on it, but still movable.

-When you tightened the locknut, did you make sure to hold the rocker pivot firm so it didn't move?
--I found that as I tightened the locknut, the pivot would spin as well unless I held it firm w/ the other wrench.

-And you were using the Haynes specs?
.25mm for intake
.30mm for exhaust

I'm sure you did all that... just having another person to double check sometimes helps.

RodMoyes

Yeah Nismo, we did all of that and used those specs. I think I honestly just pissed them off by messing with them... I should have known better. Anyway, like I said, it runs good/great except for the rough idle (Like every other 280ZX in the world). I also run thinner motor oil than most people do too so I'm sure if I dumped some 20W50 in there they would quiet down.

Overall, with 250K this motor still seems insanely strong and I don't "baby" it by any means. I almost wish it would die so I can justify the "turbo swap"


Rod.

wreckedj30

rod, i think the turbo swap is justified, just by looking at the car...come on, its beautiful, but beauti isn't everything if the cars motors crap...its turbo time.....end of story....oh and i can't adjust my head can i?...p90a...

RodMoyes

Well,

Put my new AFM in today.

Still idles like ****, doesn't run any different.

That was the LAST EFI related part to be replaced on this car. I don't get it.

I'm starting to want to **** can this car again.

EVERY THING HAS BEEN REPLACED.

POS!


Rod.

Fast240Z

Rod, for the valve adjustment, I remember reading somewhere that because the Z heads have solid pivot rocker arms, that they are supposed to make some noise, but more in line with a finely tuned swiss watch. I adjusted the valves on my Z a few times, and I'm not sure exactly how close I came to having it done right, but she runs well. She ticks at idle, but nothing so loud that it's scary.

I believe it was Zcar.com where I heard that quiet lifters mean that the valves are either not sealing completely against the valve seats, or they are pushing the seats farther into the head.

But that's just what I remember reading elsewhere.

NismoPick

They are supposed to be quiet.

Bleach

I adjust mine tighter than spec, but I like to take things to the edge.
you do that when you still own 30% of the Legandry BEAST...

mine engines idles nice with a smooth clicking

Carl's Z

Rod, read my last post in my "what would make do THIS" thread. Maybe your going thru the same ordeal. Never know..

Carl

RodMoyes

Number 6 fires at will... Swapped plug/wires and still does it. Not the plug or the wire at this point. I don't remember it doing this before the new injectors. If I have a bad injector out of the box, I'm going to be very pissed.

Anyway, I don't know what else to replace or tweak.

Every ignition part is new, every fuel system part is new and every emissions part is new. I have replaced all the connectors...

NEW:
AFM
Air Regulator
Thermotime Switch
CHTS
Cold Start valve
Injectors
Fuel pump
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Charcoal Cannister
ALL Vacuum lines
PCV Valve
EGR Valve
TVV Valve
BPT Valve
Exhaust from the manifold back
Alternator
Battery
Battery cables
Distributor
Cap
Rotor
Wires
Plugs (NGK)
Ignition Coil
Air Filter
Air Induction Valve Filter ( only on 1980 Federal emission cars)
All electrical connectors under the hood

...And a bunch of other crap I can't remember.

I'm over it.

I'm not too worried about the valve noise, I can deal with that.

I just want to know why it idles like ****, why number 6 decides on it's own when to fire and when not too and why it still appears to run too rich.

Rod.

Bleach

swap to a 1983 FI wiring harness and ECU

RodMoyes

...aaaaannnnnnddddd That would help me how?

Plus, I'd have to put in an 02 sensor if I did that... just one more freaking thing to malfunction.


Rod.