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frozen rear brakes?

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Old Sep 13, 2005 | 04:00 PM
  #1  
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frozen rear brakes?

I just bought and drove home 240 z from denver.I bought it on e-bay.when i picked it up the guy said the back brakes seem a little tight, you might want to look at them when you get home.The car acted a little weird because i could not get it to roll in nuetral.I drove it home 825 miles and it seemed fine except every time i start out it stalls and seems like the brakes are stuck on.what could this be? any ideas? would it have gone that far with the rear brakes on? also it makes a squeeling noise from the rear when you start out.Please dont laugh, just lookin for help
Old Sep 15, 2005 | 12:22 PM
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Get the rear wheels up in neutral. Turn the wheels slowly to determine were the squeel is coming from. It could be a wheel bearing or a differential pinion bearing. If it's coming from one wheel, start by pulling the brake drum. If brakes are dragging it should have gotten really hot in 825 miles, like on fire!
Old Sep 19, 2005 | 05:41 PM
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Wink

called the guy I bought it from and he said it has self adjusting rear brakes and they must be to tight???? wht the heck??? do you know anything about these?
Old Sep 20, 2005 | 07:56 PM
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pulled the rear wheels off tonight,drums are on tight and wont budge.Checked the emergency brake cable seems ok.Guess I am stumped, will look for the valve b-4 I do anything next.
Deb
Old Sep 20, 2005 | 09:10 PM
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It's normal for the drums to be tight because of electrolisis caused by the aluminum/iron combo. You could try a propane torch to heat up the drum to get it to seperate. If the drums won't rotate at all then the brakes will need to be backed off via the star adjuster. You need a brake spoon to reach through the slot in the backing plate. It might be that everything on the inside is corroded to the point that the return springs aren't working. Try some penitrating oil on the drums and around the wheel studs and soak over night. Torch the next day.
Old Sep 22, 2005 | 03:07 PM
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Theramz has it right!

Heat up the drums, but not too hot and thump them with a soft faced mallet...gently.
The idea is the break loose the corrosion and not to cause bigger problems.

Disconnect the emergency brake cable and replace it, they were a big problem with rust.

The drums will come off with some patience, but they can be a challenge!
When replacing the drums use a small amount of never-seaze on the mating surface of the hub
Old Sep 23, 2005 | 05:35 PM
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ok , Heres what happened.Got the drums off,like you said it was a b#@%*,anyways it seems thst every time I pull the emergeny break handle, the lever turns the self adjuster screw and it tightens up the Brake .After 4-5 times of this the breaks are so tight they wont move.The reciepts this guy has for this car go back to 1989 and since then hes had it in for 4 times to get the rear brakes adjusted because they were to tight. I think if I just cut off the piece that hooks the to the self adjusting screw it will be fine?The emergency brake will still work, but I would have to take off the wheel to manually adjusst the rear brakes if they needed it.Does this sound right?
Thanks for your help
Old Sep 25, 2005 | 02:11 PM
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The emergence brake could trurn the adjuster screw, but only until the shoes touch the drums.
I will try and write more on Monday and figuire this out..If its not too late don't cut off anything yet.
Old Sep 26, 2005 | 06:12 AM
  #10  
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I cut them off before I got this, dont feel good about it though.But the problem is gone. Just seems to me that something isnt right with the system,let me know what you come up with.
Thanks
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