Geez ok ok lol I'll try looking for some used headers or something I can refinish

Anyone got a set that will fit a 280ZX and that arent rusted through yet? lol I don't care if their rusted so long as their no holes

 

There was one at the Pick n Pull in March. I pulled it & hid it in the trunk of the next car over for Audiofreak.

 

lol I wonder if I'll find one this Saturday sense I'm headed out there

 

Damn it all! I can not get any power to the ****ing sprayer motor at all! and I broke the stupid hazard flasher switch.

 

Ok I'm back and I'm not pissed off lol.

Turns out the wire for the sprayer has broke somewhere between the switch and the motor.

NO idea what I'll do about the hazard flasher switch (Anyone got one they dont need?)

And I know whats wrong with my SUs. Turns out like all SUs the throttle shafts and bushings where down and then start to leak in air which then makes them neigh impossible to tune anymore really. So I have to find out where to get new throttle shafts and bushings else I'm kinda screwed sense I don't have enough for rebuilt SUs.

Anyone know where I could get those parts at all?

PS: I'm still prepping my EFI system to go back in just in case. I got a gutted turbo AFM and a KA24 throttle body sitting and waiting lol

 

There was a 280ZX with headers at that yard on Redwood and 2400N in North Salt Lake last year. No clue if it's still there or if the headers are still around though... sorry...

 

Tear a part? They didnt even have a Z car there when I asked them! None of the yards had anything yesterday amazingly.

 

No, this is further down redwood. Over by the refineries. Now that I'm thinking it's been 2 years since I've been to that place... they had a bunch of Z's then, no idea if they still have any...

 

Oh I don't know of that one I think... I get lost in SLC REALLY easy @.@

 

Oh before I go and spend $325 to $675 on theses things. Does anyone know if I'll loose or gain any performance over a stock 280ZX efi? Just wondering cuz thats kinda like, a lot to not be happy with them lol

 

I drove right by that yard on 2400 N Redwood on Friday night. It's about 5 miles from my place and I don't think I've ever been there. It's some redneck dude w/ a bad rep (or used to be)... that's all I know.

Tear a Part & Pick n Pull both have online inventory now... though they don't always list the correct year or model.

 

I ran though my parts box and found a spare hazard flasher switch so YAY on that part lol I didn't know I had one.

Now I'm cleaning and machining on my EFI intake Trying to figure out which one to use.

 

I just finished setting up my rig and tested the first injector. Its dripping out of the very tip of the nozzle lol not much but ya and I'm not holding pressure... I think my regulator might be shot or something.

 

Ok Got 6 good injectors, a good ECU good Harness and a good AFM. Now just waiting on the intake lol

In the mean time I soda blasted the brackets and the throttle hardware and got them all nice and clean. and painted them. I donot know if it was a wise idea to blast the AFM lol I cleaned it out good tho. Im scared to do the rail w/o any plugs tho.

 

Don't really have anything to say other then my Cameras flash sucks badly.

EDIT: Actually now that I think of it. Are the factory swaybars hollow or solid? I heard somewhere that they might be hollow.

 

Well I figured out why I was leaking oil a little. My oilpan bolts are a bit lose. my clicking TQ wrench is scaring me a bit sense it only goes to a min of 5flbs and I can goto a max on the bolts of 7ftlbs its kinda scaring me as I dont want to snap one lol

 

^ I believe it is 10-15 ft lbs of torque on the oil pan bolts. But do check with your FSM or manual, to be sure. Good luck.

 

4.3 to 7.2 ft lbs actually lSo Long as I dont snap one or pinch the gasket out its all good lol

 

lol finally came to your senses, eh?

 

After finding it would cost more to get the carbs working over the EFI and that the carbs where working but not working right. Yes lol This was more of experiment anyways for me. I had a feeling something wasn't going to work right but I went for it anyways.

Side note. the oil leak I think has stopped now that I tightened all the bolts up. and I got the car to pass inspection so its back on the road only like 40 miles on it so far XD 500 is gonna feel like a LONG time!

Still need to adjust the valves. I HATE doing this so freaking badly but it needs to be done.

 

Where can I get a 2+2 Drivers rear quarter panel? only a dealership huh? I decided that the poprivet braze weld is to annoying to work it smooth with like a 1/2" of bondo on it... Yes its that deep... I'm gonna replace that and the frame rails along with the passenger front fender. And thats it for body work other then patching a few rusted though spots. I'm still debating on moving the battery to where the spare tire should be or not sense its easier to weld a plate in then the wheel well. Course the back is already heavy then the front according to the sticker lol

 

Yep... dealer for 2+2 quarter panels. Didn't we already have this discussion?

 

Ya we did a long time ago lol But I dont wanna mess with pulling the panel out anymore. I just want to replace it.

 

Old sun baked tint is a bitch to remove. lol

 

You using a razor & water / windex? A flat razor will take it off normal glass. Defroster lines indeed are a pain.