considering buying a 300zx n/a
05-25-2015, 01:26 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 1
considering buying a 300zx n/a
Hello everyone,
I've been in the Honda game for a while and I'm looking to make a change I have always been a fan of the 80s 300zx but I don't know much about them. So I guess what I'm asking is what should I look for when buying one and what are some of the most common issues they have
Thanks,
I've been in the Honda game for a while and I'm looking to make a change I have always been a fan of the 80s 300zx but I don't know much about them. So I guess what I'm asking is what should I look for when buying one and what are some of the most common issues they have
Thanks,
05-25-2015, 06:21 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,103
Welcome to ZDriver! 
Mileage and rust (body, frame) are my big deals - but interior condition, indication of regular (good) maintenance - and whether the electronics are still at 100%, all can be important. Lotta stuff to think about before buying a Z31. Unless you're a mech whiz, don't buy anything that isn't running and drive-able. No need. Lotsa Z31s out there. Skip the scams and traps.
If you think you're locking in to a Z31 somewhere, DL a freebie factory service manual (+ other cool docs) at XenonZ31 Reference. Inspection and troubleshooting pages can knock your socks off.
Def check out What to look for when buying a 300ZX and come back with any questions you still have. Check Craig's city by city, all over the country, for your price ranges. Good luck!
Welcome again and thanks
Mileage and rust (body, frame) are my big deals - but interior condition, indication of regular (good) maintenance - and whether the electronics are still at 100%, all can be important. Lotta stuff to think about before buying a Z31. Unless you're a mech whiz, don't buy anything that isn't running and drive-able. No need. Lotsa Z31s out there. Skip the scams and traps.
If you think you're locking in to a Z31 somewhere, DL a freebie factory service manual (+ other cool docs) at XenonZ31 Reference. Inspection and troubleshooting pages can knock your socks off.
Def check out What to look for when buying a 300ZX and come back with any questions you still have. Check Craig's city by city, all over the country, for your price ranges. Good luck!
Welcome again and thanks
Last edited by zxguy1986; 05-25-2015 at 06:51 PM.
05-25-2015, 07:08 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Montana
Posts: 233
One area often overlooked is the tray under the battery. The battery should be sitting in a plastic tray that has a funnel shaped drain that passes though the passenger-side fender and liner. The tray and drain capture any battery boil-overs and vent the spillage to the ground. If the tray is missing, acid drips down the fender and onto the passenger side rail, corroding the metal. I've seen some early Z31 with some fairly large holes in these areas.
These three sites are good for over-all information:
z31.com | Home (which zguy1986 already referred to)
ZBUM's New Nissan Z31 300ZX Homepage (aka, the ZBUM site)
XenonZ31 (the reference section contains copies of all the factory service manuals and owners manuals.)
If you buy a car, it is wise to replace the tming belt asap. This is also a good time to replace the water pump, accessory belts and radiator hoes.
Happy hunting.
These three sites are good for over-all information:
z31.com | Home (which zguy1986 already referred to)
ZBUM's New Nissan Z31 300ZX Homepage (aka, the ZBUM site)
XenonZ31 (the reference section contains copies of all the factory service manuals and owners manuals.)
If you buy a car, it is wise to replace the tming belt asap. This is also a good time to replace the water pump, accessory belts and radiator hoes.
Happy hunting.
05-26-2015, 08:51 AM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 55
What's your budget?
parts can be pricey. When you tackle a 30 year old car you can figure that suspension bushings, shocks, struts, tierods, balljoints....all that needs attention and it's about a grand to put that all back to stock with a urethane kit...more if you want performance pieces.
Vacuum lines for the HVAC system are also likely toast. If the diaphragms, etc. are good then you can do this yourself with a spool of vaccum hose. That said, if you go test drive one and AC is only coming out the defogger vents, for example, you can point that fault out to the owner for a discount, and it can be a cheap, easy fix.
A southwest car without rot is a huge bonus. I am spoiled living in AZ and would never even consider a car that had even a little bit of rust. Fortunately there's some good rust free examples around here. With a dry climate though comes dry interiors....and that stuff is pricey to replace as well.
Bottom line...find the best one you can afford to use as a platform.
parts can be pricey. When you tackle a 30 year old car you can figure that suspension bushings, shocks, struts, tierods, balljoints....all that needs attention and it's about a grand to put that all back to stock with a urethane kit...more if you want performance pieces.
Vacuum lines for the HVAC system are also likely toast. If the diaphragms, etc. are good then you can do this yourself with a spool of vaccum hose. That said, if you go test drive one and AC is only coming out the defogger vents, for example, you can point that fault out to the owner for a discount, and it can be a cheap, easy fix.
A southwest car without rot is a huge bonus. I am spoiled living in AZ and would never even consider a car that had even a little bit of rust. Fortunately there's some good rust free examples around here. With a dry climate though comes dry interiors....and that stuff is pricey to replace as well.
Bottom line...find the best one you can afford to use as a platform.
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