Mousier158

Alright here is a question for the experts:
Im installing a Stillen oil cooler on my TT but i am using the na kit they sell which comes which the filter sandwhich peice and steel braided lines. I am trying to bypass the the stock oil system in that it opens the regulatory valve http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-b...t&total=15only when the oil reaches a certain temperature/presure to allow the oil to circulate through the oil cooler. if i remove the regulatory valve it should bypass this, however will that cause adverse effects to the oil cooling system?

91zxtt

I believe that since the regulatory valve is partially controlled by pressure that it prevents the oil cooler from having to deal with the strain of max oil pressure. You don't really want 60-90 psi running through that little oil cooler.

Mousier158

thanks 91...noted....anyone else?

frosty

On most engines you remove it if you are not running an oil cooler, and if you are, you replace the stock unit with a higher pressure. Removing it just ensures that enough pressure is maintained under load to keep oil everywhere it needs to be. But it is usually more pressure than the cooler/lines can handle.

CanyonCarver

I would be VERY VERY careful with what your doing or thinking here. Fact.... The pressure regulatory valve, in the link that you provided, is a critical part of your engine lubrication system. I would not in any way disable this. Maybe it's done by some people, but I'd be afraid that your playing with fire....... Still fact, What that valve does is open up once the desired / designed max oil pressure is reached. Theoretically, Let's say that the spring/valve is set to open at 90 psi of oil pressure. Your oil pump, is fully capable of producing say 150 psi of oil pressure at 6000 rpm. Nowhere in your engine is any part designed to see 150 psi. It's designed for 90 psi max....... again theoretically. Factually.... I've seen this on race engines..... to much oil pressure creates alot of heat within the oil...... bad thing..... one thing that oil is supposed to do is to carry the heat away from the rotating parts.

Now....... factually, what I have done before on cars of my own and on some other high performance engines, is to add a small spacer behind the spring on the regulatory valve to increase the oil pressure in the engine. It's a trick to do on an old tired engine that has low oil pressure due to wear. I believe people buy new / rebuild old motors because of low oil pressure when they could actually add a spacer here, or just buy a new spring.

And yet..... a little more...... factually, on the oil coolers that I've bought, they have a little bypass thingy in the sandwich adapter, but what it is is a temperature sensitive spring, aka temperature valve. What is does is it stays closed so that oil won't go thru the cooler until it gets up to operating temp, maybe like 180 degrees, then the little temp valve opens up to allow oil to flow thru the cooler.

let me reiterate, the valve on the motor is for pressure. The valve in the sandwich adapter is for temperature...... but then I'm talking generally. I dono wtf the stillen looks like.


Thamn..... now that's maybe 22 cents.

bardabe

yeah that's alotta cents there buddy.

frosty

It's really very engine specific, I dont know what engine builders are doing on the Z's, but pretty much every small block chevy I've ever built/seen has had it removed.

If you bought the cooler from stillen I would call and ask them what they do for their engines.

CanyonCarver

The only small block chevy's that I've seen without the oil pressure relief valve run a dry sump oil pump that does have its own pressure relief valve built in. But then, I haven't seen too much.

I helped this guy design, develop and manufacture his line of oil pumps. We also built a few race motors in his shop for his roundy-round cars.
http://www.johnsonsoilpumps.com/

frosty

We typically take them out of chevy's and install higher pressure ones on fords. Chevy's typically run really low oil pressure so with it removed a lot of the time they will still only run 60-80psi hot. Fords will blow up the oil filter without theirs.

The Z runs a lot of oil pressure with it installed, so it's very possible it would be well over 100 psi with out it. Which may blow the filter. The highest oil pressure I've ever run was in a small block ford and it would run at 100 psi.

Isn't there anyone on here who builds race engines for Z's??

CC, I saw you are an engineer, what type? I'm an EE.

CanyonCarver

doh, I forgot about the oil filter issue too. I had that problem before on a datsun L16 motor that I rebuilt. I popped off two oil filters b4 I figured out that the relief valve was stuck shut.

Like I said, I've heard of bumping up the pressure but I've never heard of blocking them off..........

imho, on the Z, there's mostly bolt-on tuners. crank up some boost and dial in the afr's. There's escort racing and maybe a coupla others that really build z motors. And no one cares about the n/a. When I finish my current project, I'm gonna tinker on a n/a. I'm looking into a vg30de / vg33 s/c hybrid.

I'm a lowly manufacturing engineer........ it pays the bills. Then I have a little design and fab operation set-up at home........ it buys the toys........

91zxtt

Anyone here know anything about Porsche 911's?

My dad has a '74 911 that has very low oil pressure when it gets hot. You think the regulatory valve could be the culprit? He rebuilt the engine 12-13 years ago, but I doubt it has more than 50k miles on it. He's replaced the sending unit and that didn't change anything. He usually runs 20/50 oil.

CanyonCarver

Nope, don't know a thing.......... I've been in a coupla FAST turbo 911's tho.

It could be that the relief valve / spring was overlooked at rebuild. Springs to soften up after so many heat cycles. The valves that I've seen are usually of the ball and seat design. Oil contaminants can definitely built up around/on the seat as with anywhere else in the motor.

I'd say to first maybe go with a new aftermarket gage, or at least hook one up to check pressure. It wouldn't cost much to find the valve and clean the seat area up with a little scotchbrite and brake parts cleaner. If that doesn't change anything, add a coupla appropriate sized washers behind the spring. check pressure and add more as required.

You are virtually guaranteed to raise the oil pressure if you add enough washers. Go too far and you pop the filter and dump all the oil in about a second.......

Porsche forums?????

frosty

I've heard those air cooled 911s need to be rebuilt every 30-50k. Maybe it's just time.

I had a 944 that ran great pressure.

Some good porsche forums are:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/forum...p?s=&forumid=3

http://forums.rennlist.com/

91zxtt

Whoever you heard that from doesn't know his a$$hole from his elbow. Porsche didn't switch the 911's over to water cooled motors until somewhere in the late 90's or early '00s, I can't remember exactly. Pops had 250k on the original motor before he rebuilt it. The German's are known for the extremley high quality engineering. A rebuild after 30k sound more like a Kia. The boxer 6 Porsche engine has ALWAYS been bullet proof. Do you think that these cars would have the solid reputation they have today if the engine had to be rebuilt ever 50k? Um, no.

frosty

That's why I put "I've head", and I believe they went water cooled in 96.

I love 944 turbos, if you could actually find them in good shape I would have one. The only problem is it seems once they get over 100k they get a lot of electrical gremlins. I had an 87 944S and finally sold it cuz I was sick of chasing the gremlins.

91zxtt

I guess you shouldn't believe everything you hear.

It was '98 when they went to water-cooled. I looked it up. It was introduced with the 996 model; which was the 1st completely redesigned Porsche in 34 years.

WhtFairLadyZ

OK i may have missed this tid bit i am about to add in one of the other guys posts..so if i am repeatin I am sorry.

Onw thing to remmeber about oil coolers and tranny coolersis that they are designed to do just that. NO S*** RIGHT! Well here is the thing, depending on if u live on canada or florida will determine how often you really need that oil cooler. If that oil cooler is allowed to circulate full time in say 32 degree weather. Then your oil temps will not raise up enough for the oil to reach its operating temp. You can over cool your oil just as quickly as over heating. Over cooled oil is basically like molasses. It doesnt flow properly thus not lubricating properly. By eliminating that check valve and allowing it to flow full time you may end up with thuw problem, but it really depends on your driving style, where u live, ad what the car is goin to be used for.

Mousier158

Alas! were talking about Z's again

Ba11erz

HiAll,

I searched the threads and found this topic.

After reading your comments, I'm hoping someone can shed some light on EXACTLY how to plumb an aftermarket oil cooler.

I have a Z32 TT in stock oil cooler configuration. I purchased a custom oil cooler, hose, hose ends and sandwich plate that accepts 2 -8AN fittings and (2) 1/8 NPT sensor fittings.

How do I plumb the hose(s) so that I include the regulator valve, I/O sandwich plate, and return to oil pan?

Any help on this would be great.

Diagrams or pics would be exceptional.

KasbeKZ

go ahead and start a new thread man. this thread is from 2005.

and by "plumb" you mean???? prime? or hook it up?