N/A tuning
10-24-2004, 08:07 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
N/A tuning
Being new to the forum there is a qustion i would like to ask about my N/A`s BHP before i go any further you will probably say buy a turbo, but i like my N/A it`s different,any way this is what i`ve done so far:
STILLEN CERAMIC HEADERS
DE-CAT PIPES
GREDDY SP2 DE-CAT BACK
NISMO CLUTCH
FINDAZE LIGHTEND FLYWHEEL
HKS INDUCTION
UNOTHODOX RACING CRANK PULLEY
EPROM CHIP
IRIDIAM PLUGS
QUICK SHIFT
Would some head work make much difference,could some one give me an idea what power they think i am pushing through my car and what else can i do to it to get more power, without useing N.O.S or a turbo.
Cheers Ray
STILLEN CERAMIC HEADERS
DE-CAT PIPES
GREDDY SP2 DE-CAT BACK
NISMO CLUTCH
FINDAZE LIGHTEND FLYWHEEL
HKS INDUCTION
UNOTHODOX RACING CRANK PULLEY
EPROM CHIP
IRIDIAM PLUGS
QUICK SHIFT
Would some head work make much difference,could some one give me an idea what power they think i am pushing through my car and what else can i do to it to get more power, without useing N.O.S or a turbo.
Cheers Ray
10-24-2004, 01:45 PM
#2
Dan's the Man
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Peterborough, Ontario
Posts: 332
Welcome to the board.
Nothing wrong with wanting to keep it N/A (IMHO). How far are you willing to go? (i.e do you have a goal in mind as it relates to desired HP?)
How many miles on your Z and what year is it?
I'm not sure where you are at right now w/ RWHP...maybe 190ish (???). Getting the #'s up on an N/A won't be cheap.
Before going internal, you can...
S-AFC II
Ground kit
Unorthodox Pullies (PS, Alt, WP)
1 Piece driveshaft (lightened...steel, aluminum, carbon fibre)
Electric fan
Internal...
Ported and honed plenum
Heads
Valves
Cam shaft
Tweak the timing
You could look to lighten the car by getting rid of the spare and jack, pulling the stock seats and installing aftermarket.
More importantly...suspension and braking upgrades. Don't forget them.
Nothing wrong with wanting to keep it N/A (IMHO). How far are you willing to go? (i.e do you have a goal in mind as it relates to desired HP?)
How many miles on your Z and what year is it?
I'm not sure where you are at right now w/ RWHP...maybe 190ish (???). Getting the #'s up on an N/A won't be cheap.
Before going internal, you can...
S-AFC II
Ground kit
Unorthodox Pullies (PS, Alt, WP)
1 Piece driveshaft (lightened...steel, aluminum, carbon fibre)
Electric fan
Internal...
Ported and honed plenum
Heads
Valves
Cam shaft
Tweak the timing
You could look to lighten the car by getting rid of the spare and jack, pulling the stock seats and installing aftermarket.
More importantly...suspension and braking upgrades. Don't forget them.
10-24-2004, 05:11 PM
#6
Jack Of All Trades
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Acton, California
Posts: 2,296
The biggest h.p. increase comes from increasing the compression ratio on any given displacement motor. But that does no good unless you can get more fuel and air into the combustion chambers, and then out the exhaust pipes. Dan's right with the ported heads, larger valves and longer duration cams. Most of the external items only get you incremental gains. On top of that, you want to maximize displacement with as large of cylinder bore as is feasible. Then you can also get a stroker kit.
I myself will be aiming for around 15:1 c/r on my stock crank and rods. I can do this without pulling the engine, (I believe).
The 358 cu/in small block nascar engines that put out roughly 750 h.p. run around 22:1 c/r. Except for the custom cnc machined cylinder heads, they're mostly built from parts that you can buy from a store yourself. Except for the toyota i'm sure.
I myself will be aiming for around 15:1 c/r on my stock crank and rods. I can do this without pulling the engine, (I believe).
The 358 cu/in small block nascar engines that put out roughly 750 h.p. run around 22:1 c/r. Except for the custom cnc machined cylinder heads, they're mostly built from parts that you can buy from a store yourself. Except for the toyota i'm sure.
10-24-2004, 07:33 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Douglasville, Ga
Posts: 372
Nah, actually, the number u guesstimated is about right. I have the following done to my '92 'Slick top' N/A and I am only making 184.6 BHP on Z1's dyno.
UR pulley set (CR, W/P, ALT, PWS)
JWT intake
AshSPEC ECU upgrade
HKS Hyper Exhaust
RVM intake Hard pipes
*I am running 18x8" in the front and 18x9" so that may be throwin the dyno off. Plus I was runnin a cheap grade of 93 octane gas.
My car is also pushing 156,000 miles. What really gets me is that a '94 BONE STOCK 'slick top' N/A laid down a 181 BHP the same day I dyno'ed my car. Thats why i just bought a doner TT car which is about to get an engine swap into my 'Slick top'. The N/a was fun, and a good learning experience. But for the dollar, the mods just do not show enough RWHP in return.
UR pulley set (CR, W/P, ALT, PWS)
JWT intake
AshSPEC ECU upgrade
HKS Hyper Exhaust
RVM intake Hard pipes
*I am running 18x8" in the front and 18x9" so that may be throwin the dyno off. Plus I was runnin a cheap grade of 93 octane gas.
My car is also pushing 156,000 miles. What really gets me is that a '94 BONE STOCK 'slick top' N/A laid down a 181 BHP the same day I dyno'ed my car. Thats why i just bought a doner TT car which is about to get an engine swap into my 'Slick top'. The N/a was fun, and a good learning experience. But for the dollar, the mods just do not show enough RWHP in return.
11-04-2004, 07:29 AM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: York, PA
Posts: 2
Way too much bad mojo goin on in here...
A couple of things real quick...
raymond, depending on your motor's current compression, i'd have to venture a guess of 195-200 rwhp. You're going to want to look into JWT, GMS Racing, or an ASHSpec Eeprom to upgrade the ecu. Lose the iridiums, they're dragging you down, go back to the stock NGK's and there's possibility of making back some power. For the low cost of it, you need to start looking into a grounding wire kit. Our cars have a tendency of having bad grounds and causing sensors to not read quite right. Personally, my car smoothed out incredibly with the addition of one of these kits. Also, why're you aparantly against the use of nitrous oxide?
DanZ32, the UR pulley set (for all of the accesories) is truly a waste of money, that $200 is better spent elsewhere, they don't underdrive the pulleys, they just make them look pretty. The electric fan is not recommended due to the hp/reliability factor. They don't increase the HP to anything more noticeable, it's hard to find one that will meet, or exceed the CFM's of the stock fan, and I've seen too many end up with either shorts, or burnt wires, resulting in an inoperative fan.
CanyonCarver, are you planning on running your car for DD use? 15:1 is too high for street use, unless you plan on spending for racegas to fill every tank.
WhtFairLadyZ, If the profile of your wheels is what it should be, it won't throw off your dyno, but you have to remember, you're trying to spin a LOT more unsprung weight. Also, higher octane gas won't give you more power, you would have made the same power with 91 as w/ 93, or even your cheap grade 93.
Any questions?
raymond, depending on your motor's current compression, i'd have to venture a guess of 195-200 rwhp. You're going to want to look into JWT, GMS Racing, or an ASHSpec Eeprom to upgrade the ecu. Lose the iridiums, they're dragging you down, go back to the stock NGK's and there's possibility of making back some power. For the low cost of it, you need to start looking into a grounding wire kit. Our cars have a tendency of having bad grounds and causing sensors to not read quite right. Personally, my car smoothed out incredibly with the addition of one of these kits. Also, why're you aparantly against the use of nitrous oxide?
DanZ32, the UR pulley set (for all of the accesories) is truly a waste of money, that $200 is better spent elsewhere, they don't underdrive the pulleys, they just make them look pretty. The electric fan is not recommended due to the hp/reliability factor. They don't increase the HP to anything more noticeable, it's hard to find one that will meet, or exceed the CFM's of the stock fan, and I've seen too many end up with either shorts, or burnt wires, resulting in an inoperative fan.
CanyonCarver, are you planning on running your car for DD use? 15:1 is too high for street use, unless you plan on spending for racegas to fill every tank.
WhtFairLadyZ, If the profile of your wheels is what it should be, it won't throw off your dyno, but you have to remember, you're trying to spin a LOT more unsprung weight. Also, higher octane gas won't give you more power, you would have made the same power with 91 as w/ 93, or even your cheap grade 93.
Any questions?
11-04-2004, 09:59 AM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Gerber, CA
Posts: 3,672
A couple things... Dan's right about the underdrive pullies. The accessory pullies do underdrive the accessories and they are much lighter than the stock pullies. It may not be as significant as the underdrive crank pulley, but there is some horsepower to be freed up with them. The 1-piece driveshaft will definitely help. The grounding net is a great idea. As far as the electric fan goes, unless you have an oversized radiator, then the electric fan isn't a good idea. It doesn't push enough air. If you have the larger radiator, then go with the electric fan because it will free-up a couple ponies under the hood. Nothing you will really feel, but it is something. It will really clean up the engine compartment also. AS jk said, go back to the NGK's.
You said you have an EPROM upgade....who did it?
You said you have an EPROM upgade....who did it?
12-02-2004, 09:10 AM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Lindon Utah
Posts: 73
Originally Posted by jkperformance
A couple of things real quick...
raymond, depending on your motor's current compression, i'd have to venture a guess of 195-200 rwhp. You're going to want to look into JWT, GMS Racing, or an ASHSpec Eeprom to upgrade the ecu. Lose the iridiums, they're dragging you down, go back to the stock NGK's and there's possibility of making back some power. For the low cost of it, you need to start looking into a grounding wire kit. Our cars have a tendency of having bad grounds and causing sensors to not read quite right. Personally, my car smoothed out incredibly with the addition of one of these kits. Also, why're you aparantly against the use of nitrous oxide?
raymond, depending on your motor's current compression, i'd have to venture a guess of 195-200 rwhp. You're going to want to look into JWT, GMS Racing, or an ASHSpec Eeprom to upgrade the ecu. Lose the iridiums, they're dragging you down, go back to the stock NGK's and there's possibility of making back some power. For the low cost of it, you need to start looking into a grounding wire kit. Our cars have a tendency of having bad grounds and causing sensors to not read quite right. Personally, my car smoothed out incredibly with the addition of one of these kits. Also, why're you aparantly against the use of nitrous oxide?
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