Hi, I have 1994 TTZ coupe with Auto trans which I bought back in 2004. I paid $7800. The car was bone stock, the black paint with tan interior, leather seat and bose system. 160K on it. I know it wasn’t a good deal since the car is being automatic and high milelage but at that time TTZs are hard to find in my area. Right after I bought, I upgraded to Stage III. I went to the track and tested my car, the fastest ¼ mile was 13.7 on 100 octane gas. And I also did the new paint job blueish gray color and Bomex double spoiler and changed all the moldings (windshield, T-tops, Kuruma Z doors) and put 18 inch straggled TSW wheels on. In October 2005, the car was stolen . Unfortunately, it wasn’t insured at that time. It was insured before but I canceled it a week before the car was stolen because I was going out of state for about 6 months and planned to put the car in my brother-in-law’s garage. The car was recovered 2 months after with no exhaust, wheels, seats, T-tops, spoiler and stereo system. I got back to the state and start doing restore on my car with my own expenses. After putting everything back on with HKS Hiper (this is the second one), seats, T-tops etc, and I did the paint job again to Gross black color and also the body work this time cause passenger side door was damaged due to theft and other dent areas. Bomex spoiler again and Stillen GTZ front lip to cover alittle bit crack on stock bumper and Stillen Type III Side Skirts with door fillers. After all these things done, the car was look good again it suppose to be. I changed almost all interior parts with new OEM from coz, courtesy etc…. I bought new Tan leather seat cover from leatherseats.com to cover the dirty Twede seat that I bought from Ebay. I’m glad I did this thing, the seats are very nice and almost look identical to New Oem seat. Again, I changed the OEM moldings (windshield, T-tops) Kuruma Z for doors and new Cowl grills also. I did 120K timing service with UR pulley upgrade, New fan blade, HKS polished intercooler hardpipes and Stillen grounding kit (fake one I bought from ebay) but same result. That was in 2006. Beginning of 2007 I start doing suspension and brake, which was Eibach springs, KYB AGX shocks along with Stillen front Adjustable camber (old style), SPL V2 tension rod, Powertrix rear upper control arm, SPL 8 piece subframe bushing collars and replaced all the bushings with Energy Suspension Polyurethane which include Front lower control arms, steering rack, front/rear sway bars and endlinks (just the bushings), entire rear control arm bushings 18 pieces but 2 bushings didn’t use for upper control arms since I got the Powertrix one. As far as I know, I only need to replace the bushings from two locations sub frame and differential if I want to. For the brake I changed front & rear Brembo Sport slotted rotors made by brembo, Axxis Ultimate pads with new OEM shims, ATE fluid, 300 degree cylinder brace, Goodridge SS brake lines and painted calipers. I bought 18 inch Volk GT-C gold spoke with polished lips 18X8 front, 18X10 rear with Yokohama AVS Sport 245/40 and 285/35 tires. After spending these things, I hadn’t drive my Z much, just sitting on the driveway in front of the garage and I went into another hobby (Aquarium Fish) spent the whole year of 2007 and until April 2008. Now, start looking back to my Z. Time for me to upgrade my Z again. So, I recently bought Stillen side mount intercooler with ducts, Z1 Silicone Intercooler couplers with T-bolt clamps (will be installed along with the intercoolers by myself), HKS SSQV BOV kit (new style) just installed it by myself, not that hard since I already pulled my front bumper, CZP front caliper adapter kit with Stoptech slotted 2 piece aero roters (to fill the gap between 18” volk and stock size rotor) and Hawk HPS front pads from coz that they sell as a kit for $750. I’m pleased with the quality of rotors and adapters. 16 piece T-bolt clamp set for my HKS hardpipe. I also bought stillen GTZ rear valance, Z1 oil cooler kit, Z1 chrome lower radiator hardpipe w/ silicone elbows along with upper radiator hose. Nismo Thermostat that I didn’t install at 120K service, Nismo transmission mount, Hose techniques vacuum kit, Silicone Idle Hose Kit (ACC/IACV) and a few other maintenance items.

Now, I interested in doing my Auto TTZ to 5 speed MT conversion. After above things done on my car should I proceed with this route or sell this car and get another 5 Speed TTZ. The reason I’m interested in this because now I’m able to upgrade the bigger turbos, larger injectors, Exhaust Manifold, Downpipe, Test pipe, Exhaust, Dual intake system etc.. along with it. I guess if I can do all these things together at the same time, cost little bit less for labor. When I do this conversion, I also want to upgrade clutch, lightweight flywheel rather than oem, short throw shifter, one piece drive shaft and other things as follow


Turbo

Z1 GT600R or GT675RS Turbo kits or any other turbos between this price range. If for Z1 kits should I get GT600R or pay a little more to get GT675RS. I know both required 5 bolt down pipe. Is there a lot of power different between these two.

Injectors

300 Degree Fuel Rails with Nismo 740cc Injector Kit and SZ Fuel line kit or just stick with 555cc injectors

Exhaust Manifolds

Mike Smith (MPS) or AMS Max Flow Exhaust Manifolds. I know the price is different. I want to know about quality, reliability and performance etc..

Downpipe, Test pipe and cat back Exhaust

I’m planning to change my HKS Hiper to SZ Quad dual round tips exhaust with X-pipe since I bought the Stillen GTZ rear valance, Hiper won’t fit in there, I didn’t like the way its look either, I bought it for price and performance. Anyway, for the down pipe and test pipe, I’ll get SZ or Labree super split (aluminized version). Is there any difference between SZ and labree. I read somewhere on tt.net that some people say the exhaust is not the same. I’m not sure about down pipe and test pipe. For the pipe size, should I get 3” or 2.5” I figured 3”is $500 more than 2.5” for the whole system down pipe to cat back. Is there any performance gain.

Jimwolf Dual Pop

Since I need to upgrade the Eprom chip from my JWT Ecu for larger injectors, I think it’ good time to upgrade too, right? Do you guys recommend 2nd MAF set up with AFC or just one MAF.

And also want to put Koyo racing radiator, electronic boost controller, New EFI wiring harness, New Motor mounts, Rear main seal replacement, Oxygen Sensors, NGK #7 heat range spark plugs and pressure wash engine bay. What’s else I can do without costing additional labor.

Z1 sell the package deal $1850 combination of new and used parts. My question is "Should I change to 5 speed or just put these mods on my current AT without doing conversion or sell this car and get another 5 speed TTZ put these mods on". I’m very confused right now, don’t know what to do. If I can change my car to 5 speed with these mods or just put them on my AT. Can I expect more power with 5 speed or not much different. I live in SF bayarea and I know zcargarage.com thay located in San Jose. I been there once asked the guy (the owner) about this conversion and he said $1200 labor for whole job. I didn't ask about turbo and other things at that time. It's been quite long. If any of you live in the bay area and know the good shop for Z. Please let me know.

 

sounds cool as *****, yeah if you think you might regret it when buying the car, always go manual if you have any doubts on your mind. that way no swap needed down the line. lol. also that first ummm... "paragraph" yeah the enter and tab key are your friend that was pretty rough to read in one giant bunch. also there is a kick *** turbo write-up on here via Zlover4life try to search for it. other than that, no other suggestions on the other things.

 

thanks for quick reply. is that mean i should sell it and get another manual tt.

 

you don't have to.... but it might be the better option. when you start mixing things together like that just more possibilities for things to go wrong if not done perfect the first time. its what i would do but sometimes sentimental value is strong enough to just take the harder route. also if you did sell id take any mods off of it return it to stock and then when u get the 5spd you can swap them all straight onto there.


im editing this because i mentioned stuff that could go wrong and mean while I'm thinking TCM wiring but yeah, not on a manual lol. so yeah it would be pretty tough there's a lot of crap to do to convert and stuff is hard to get at. got the pedal assembly master the plumbing the flywheel clutch setup tranny slave cylinder and maybe drive shaft? though it doesn't sound like much getting in the pedal assembly and running the hydraulics is no fun. plus you have to remove all the auto garbage and w/e is involved with it idk if the Z32 auto had a TCM if nor do i know how its wired in there if pulling it all out would cause codes to be thrown or what.

 

Well if it was me, and because things become sentimental to me quicker. I would keep it, and convert it to a 5-speed. I mean after all you have put into it. And the time you have had it. I am sure it would hurt you greatly to sell it. Just to get a 5-speed Z. That is how I feel on it. It is totally up to you, what you do. But anyway that is my 2 cents. Good luck to you, whatever you decide bro'. And feel free to post some pictures. Would love to see all that hard work you have done.

 

i emailed to Greg at SpecialtyZ lasy night and just recieved the reply from him as follows;

hi, i used to buy some parts from you sometime ago and i have 1994 300ZX twin turbo coupe with auto trans. currently Stage III with JWT pop charger, JWT ECU w/ boost jet, HKS Hiper cat back with megan test pipe, Stillen SMIC, 120K service done w/ UR pulley and some suspension upgrades. Now, I'm planning to put Z1 GT600R turbo kit, MS manifolds, 300 degree rails with Nismo 740cc injectors, JWT dual pop, Koyo radiator and your downpipe, testpipe, cat back system. is 2.5" enough for them or should i run 3" system. is 3" heavier than 2.5". Any fitment issue for testpipe since i have auto trans etc..and another thing is I want to convert my auto to 5 speed. is worth doing it or just put them on my current Auto trans. is there any power difference between Auto and 5 speed with these mods on. can you give me a suggestion and i'd really appreciate it. and i live in daly city (san francisco) i'm planning for a trip to Los Angeles this up coming june. I heard that you guys located in southern califonia area, is there any chance i can come to you and let you guy install. if so, how much for installation and if you suggest auto to 5 speed convertion and how much cost of the labor. please let me know. thanks

reply from him,
"The 3 inch is a huge improvement over the whole power band (even with stock turbos).
The auto trans is better for turbo cars...... the higher the power the better auto.
The Auto does need to be upgraded for higher power. When the trans is upgraded properly they rock!
Auto trans turbo cars are always quicker. Both of my Z cars are autos as well as Seb that works with me.
The weight is within a pound. The pipes are designed to fit perfect with the autop trans.
We can install the parts for you......We book about 4 to 6 weeks weeks out. So book ahead"

and i replied back to him about booking, cost of parts and installation, etc..waiting for his reply again.

What do you GUYs think about that?

 

I don't know man, but I'm sure Specialty Z knows better than me when it comes to these cars. However, NOTHING beats a manual tranny in terms of fun factor. I'd still do the swap - maybe ask them to do the swap for you with either used parts or new parts, depending on your wallet. I wouldn't get a newer used Z32, you have a good one, have done a ton of upgrades, just keep on upgrading!

 

Autos are only faster in a straight line... the LAST thing you want to happen during an autocross track day is the trans to suddenly downshift and kick the back end out unexpectedly.

So autos are only for grocery-getters and drag racers.

 

exactly only faster in a straight line and only if upgraded properly, also, auto's do have more drive train power loss as well as have more weight. you have much more simplicity and control with a manual. however if all you want to do is smash the pedal and go fast. auto is for you.

 

well, how about if i put these mods on my current auto without conversion first. since the parts and labor are close to 5 figures even w/o conversion then i'd do a conversion in a year. whould it cost me double the labor. i mean like changing the turbos with other supporting mods that i stated and converting auto to 5speed, are they on the way job or done separately.

 

To do the turbos, they're going to remove the engine and transmission... furthermore, the conversion will be easier for them (and thus cheaper for you) if the engine is out while they do it.

Talk to Greg, ask how much it'd be if you did the conversion later as opposed to now (i.e. how much the cost would increase for the conversion).

 

i know the manual is the best when it comes to fun factor and the way of driving. that's why i start interesting in doing swap. i'm also looking for another late model 5 speed TTZ, especially 94-95 but still couldn't find one. what else should i replace OEM parts for reliability and Maintenance during swap or installing turbos without costing additional labor.

 

Hey!!! I use it to commute too.....

 

Ok guys, I recieved the email from greg saying that they don't do any major installation since 2 years until now. they just focus on smaller jobs. so, i'm gonna go back to my original plan, zcargarage. and i asked him about recommendation of the turbos that i stated. he recommended JWT Sport 530BB over Z1 GT600R, mainly because of the work done on turbo and the fitment. and he offered me $2600 for jwt sport 530bb. i'm asking because Z1 gt600R is a kit that come with oil lines, gaskets ect.. and sport 530bb is just the turbos, Right? Z1 price is $2495. is worth going 530bb over gt600R with $100 extra and need to pay for oil lines, gaskets which is like another $200 or so. Any suggestion on that? i still can go pick up the parts since i'm going to LA anyway, in order to avoid shipping.

 

and i asked him about package deal cause i'm going to buy all the parts together turbos, injectors etc.. and think that going to be a little bit cheaper the price. he said i can go pick up the parts that save me for shipping. i'm waiting for the package deal's price. i picked 3" version over 2.5" any advice?