racing
racing
z racing tips anyone? i got a problem with losing traction on the back wheels, usually when i hit second gear and the "twin turbos....kick....in...". what are optimal shift points?
Check out this link:
http://twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/shiftpoints.html
A few other things that you can do is remove the sway bar when you race so it gives the chassis more freedom to twist. Or get slicks.
http://twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/shiftpoints.html
A few other things that you can do is remove the sway bar when you race so it gives the chassis more freedom to twist. Or get slicks.
Experiencing wheel hop? Eliminating or bracing the rear subframe bushings might help you. Solid aluminum bushings or collars to brace the bushings are available to help reduce that wheel hop and loss of traction.
Is the loss of traction in a straight line or around a corner? Certain alignment changes can help/hinder that.
Have you tried stickier tires? Tires are what connect your car with the ground. Braking and Acceleration are all dependant on your tires. A change there might greatly improve both for you.
Is the loss of traction in a straight line or around a corner? Certain alignment changes can help/hinder that.
Have you tried stickier tires? Tires are what connect your car with the ground. Braking and Acceleration are all dependant on your tires. A change there might greatly improve both for you.
ok, what kind of racing are you talking about? I assumed drag because you said that you were losing traction, but I guess it could be another type. It's hard to give advice without that advice. So, what kind of racing?
Wait did you say you were getting wheel hop? That doesnt typically happen with coil suspension does it? Mostly with leaf spring right? Traction bars corrected most of the leaf springs faults. But would slicks fit under those wheels wells, im sure some are made, but all the cars i've seen with slicks are tubbed to sh*t. Peace foo's
It's moderately difficult to replace the subframe bushings. Having the car up in the air long enough is part of it. Lowering half the entire subframe at a time is the other part. You'll have to press/cut the old bushings out to get the new ones with or w/o spacers in.
Wheel hop is present in the Z because of there being a subrame. The rear suspension isn't technically attached to the car. Everything is attached to the subframe, then the car, with the exception of the shocks which attach to the lower a-arm and the body. But since the shock moves independently of everything else it doesn't really help stabilize anything now does it. That's no the shocks job. But back to the point, the wheels hop because the subframe bushings also help to move the entire subframe by giving and moving in place. The wheels are then allowed to move in which ever direction they so choose which includes up. Limit this movement of the entire subframe and you'll limit the upward option for the tires. So now they can either go forward or sideways.
If you wanna limit the sideways movement, a better limited slip should correct that. Stickier tires always improve the situation.
Oh, once again the reason you don't see huge 3ft wide Mickeys under a Z32 is because it wasn't meant to be dragged in the first place. BF Goodrich does make D.O.T. approved drag radials in various sizes if that's what you're looking to do with your Z or other car.
Wheel hop is present in the Z because of there being a subrame. The rear suspension isn't technically attached to the car. Everything is attached to the subframe, then the car, with the exception of the shocks which attach to the lower a-arm and the body. But since the shock moves independently of everything else it doesn't really help stabilize anything now does it. That's no the shocks job. But back to the point, the wheels hop because the subframe bushings also help to move the entire subframe by giving and moving in place. The wheels are then allowed to move in which ever direction they so choose which includes up. Limit this movement of the entire subframe and you'll limit the upward option for the tires. So now they can either go forward or sideways.
If you wanna limit the sideways movement, a better limited slip should correct that. Stickier tires always improve the situation.

Oh, once again the reason you don't see huge 3ft wide Mickeys under a Z32 is because it wasn't meant to be dragged in the first place. BF Goodrich does make D.O.T. approved drag radials in various sizes if that's what you're looking to do with your Z or other car.
Last edited by Riz Z Speed; Feb 15, 2004 at 01:11 AM.
The down side with solid subframe bushings is the loss of ride quality. The stock bushings allow the subframe to 'float' separate from the rest of the car. The subframe will move approximately 1" before the suspension of the car begins to work. That's why you get wheel hop. If you install solid bushings, the ride becomes much more harsh and the road noise will be much greater in the cabin. You'll hear and feel everything on the road.
There are no leaf springs in a Z32, so a traction bar isn't an option. Don't waste your time reaseraching this.
Another option is subframe spacers. Check out www.specialtyz.com. I bought them, but haven't installed them yet, so at this point I only know what I have read. The subframe spacers are designed to pre-load the subframe bushings so that the rear-end doesn't 'float' anymore. The benefit to these is they reduce wheel hop, but don't sacrifice ride quality. The rubber bushings are still there to help absorb the road noise. They are supposed to be easy to install. They run $60. IMHO, these spacers are a better option since you probably spend more time on the road than on the dragstrip.
There are no leaf springs in a Z32, so a traction bar isn't an option. Don't waste your time reaseraching this.
Another option is subframe spacers. Check out www.specialtyz.com. I bought them, but haven't installed them yet, so at this point I only know what I have read. The subframe spacers are designed to pre-load the subframe bushings so that the rear-end doesn't 'float' anymore. The benefit to these is they reduce wheel hop, but don't sacrifice ride quality. The rubber bushings are still there to help absorb the road noise. They are supposed to be easy to install. They run $60. IMHO, these spacers are a better option since you probably spend more time on the road than on the dragstrip.
Originally posted by pearly whites
nothing around my way even can stand up to the z, so i dont really have any tales to tell....
nothing around my way even can stand up to the z, so i dont really have any tales to tell....
Originally posted by pearly whites
this one guy ruond my way bout a tt supra round the same time i got my z and before i could find him rollin round town in it i heard that he trashed it racing someone.... ugh,,,,,
this one guy ruond my way bout a tt supra round the same time i got my z and before i could find him rollin round town in it i heard that he trashed it racing someone.... ugh,,,,,
in that case, I only have one suggestion. This might burn out your clutch quicker, but let the clutch out as opposed to popping it out, let it out slowly and let it catch traction as you let it out.
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