New z owner! Please help ! Give me info! Thanks
05-10-2010, 01:22 PM
#1
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 4
New z owner! Please help ! Give me info! Thanks
ok im buying my first z 1990 300zx n/a 100k miles baby blue pearl original
color.
ITS ALL STOCK!
WHAT ARE SOME FIRST THINGS I SHOULD CHECK??
COMMON PROBLEMS OR THINGS TO GO WRONG??
WHAT SHOULD BE MY FIRST MODS??
PLEASE GUIDE ME THANKS!
and should the oil preasure gaguge be at 120 almost at alltimes?
color.
ITS ALL STOCK!
WHAT ARE SOME FIRST THINGS I SHOULD CHECK??
COMMON PROBLEMS OR THINGS TO GO WRONG??
WHAT SHOULD BE MY FIRST MODS??
PLEASE GUIDE ME THANKS!
and should the oil preasure gaguge be at 120 almost at alltimes?
05-10-2010, 01:25 PM
#2
Welcome to ZDriver! 
Almost all of those questions can be answered here (click): https://www.zdriver.com/forums/300zx-z32-tech-tips-273/
Almost all of those questions can be answered here (click): https://www.zdriver.com/forums/300zx-z32-tech-tips-273/
05-10-2010, 03:35 PM
#4
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: virginia
Posts: 4,617
what he's saying is that personal input has been given before. things like oil pressure and common problems can be found very easily by searching.
but, i like to help out the new people. welcome to the forum!
check for maintenance records. a z behind on maintenance is a nasty thing. i bought mine for $4k about 2.5 years ago ('90 n/a) and i've put about another $6k into it since then, because it was so far behind on maintenance.
what could go wrong? '90 n/a's have 26mm brake rotors, which are prone to warping. there is a lot of info that you need to read up on before you dive into the brakes, but if your front brakes are shaking, POST UP HERE, or search. you don't just take it to a mechanic for that and say "fix it".
first mod, if you want to go faster, should be to sell it and get a tt. n/a z's have next to no upgradeability. it's hard to accept at first, but if you read into it, it's the truth. the n/a's are built pretty close to their potential from the factory. sure there are a lot of parts that you can get, but you could spend the value of the car on upgrades and still only manage to move the crank HP to the wheels, meaning about a 40-50 HP gain. very cost inefficient.
oil pressure should never be 120. either your sending unit is bad, or someone put oil that is much to heavy for it in there. oil should be roughly 50-70 cruising, and 10-30 when idling. depends on season, age of car, 10w-30 or 10w-40 (which are almost your only two options)
but, i like to help out the new people. welcome to the forum!
check for maintenance records. a z behind on maintenance is a nasty thing. i bought mine for $4k about 2.5 years ago ('90 n/a) and i've put about another $6k into it since then, because it was so far behind on maintenance.
what could go wrong? '90 n/a's have 26mm brake rotors, which are prone to warping. there is a lot of info that you need to read up on before you dive into the brakes, but if your front brakes are shaking, POST UP HERE, or search. you don't just take it to a mechanic for that and say "fix it".
first mod, if you want to go faster, should be to sell it and get a tt. n/a z's have next to no upgradeability. it's hard to accept at first, but if you read into it, it's the truth. the n/a's are built pretty close to their potential from the factory. sure there are a lot of parts that you can get, but you could spend the value of the car on upgrades and still only manage to move the crank HP to the wheels, meaning about a 40-50 HP gain. very cost inefficient.
oil pressure should never be 120. either your sending unit is bad, or someone put oil that is much to heavy for it in there. oil should be roughly 50-70 cruising, and 10-30 when idling. depends on season, age of car, 10w-30 or 10w-40 (which are almost your only two options)
05-10-2010, 05:14 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 4
Its got all new drilled rotors,
and its not about making itfaster hp wise just better throttel response and sound better.
i know it 0-60 1/4 isinggoing to be really improved.
i just want to make it more responsive and throaty.
and i was told theres some sensors to be cleaned for it to run stronger?>?
also a screw that can be removed from TB that gives response better?
and its not about making itfaster hp wise just better throttel response and sound better.
i know it 0-60 1/4 isinggoing to be really improved.
i just want to make it more responsive and throaty.
and i was told theres some sensors to be cleaned for it to run stronger?>?
also a screw that can be removed from TB that gives response better?
05-10-2010, 05:39 PM
#6
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: virginia
Posts: 4,617
for better throttle response and sound, you'll want a lightweight flywheel and either HKS or specialty Z exhaust. those are the only two i'd get, but there are plenty of other options. B&B, borla, greddy.... on and on.
only sensor i can think of to clean that would make it run stronger is the MAF. i don't know of any screw removal that actually does anything. i've frequented several forums for several years, and have never heard of anyone doing that.
just because your rotors are drilled doesn't mean that they upgraded them to the 30mm's. on top of that, most drilled rotors are inferior to standard rotors in one way or another. that is, aftermarket drilled rotors for the z at least. watch them closely for cracks forming around the holes. if they're not warping or cracking, great, but it's likely that if they're still 26mm, they'll be warping again pretty soon.
only sensor i can think of to clean that would make it run stronger is the MAF. i don't know of any screw removal that actually does anything. i've frequented several forums for several years, and have never heard of anyone doing that.
just because your rotors are drilled doesn't mean that they upgraded them to the 30mm's. on top of that, most drilled rotors are inferior to standard rotors in one way or another. that is, aftermarket drilled rotors for the z at least. watch them closely for cracks forming around the holes. if they're not warping or cracking, great, but it's likely that if they're still 26mm, they'll be warping again pretty soon.
05-11-2010, 01:17 PM
#8
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 4
yeah buy a TT no **** this is what i have, i have a bmw m3 turbo if i wanted just speed etc id stick to it i just want it soudn nice and better throttel response and if i can get some cheep hp and make it run better with nice mods y not.
05-11-2010, 05:56 PM
#9
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: virginia
Posts: 4,617
word. well, you know my opinion on sound, and past that, a JWT intake and an underdrive pulley is just about as far as it really makes sense to go with an n/a. let us know if you need any help.
we're not trying to be discouraging with the tt statements, it's just that we see a ton of people come on here saying "i bought an n/a and now i want to mod it to go fast like a tt" or "now i want to turbo swap it" thinking that somehow it will be better than just buying a turbo, but really it's not. you just sounded to be one of those, but perhaps not.
we're not trying to be discouraging with the tt statements, it's just that we see a ton of people come on here saying "i bought an n/a and now i want to mod it to go fast like a tt" or "now i want to turbo swap it" thinking that somehow it will be better than just buying a turbo, but really it's not. you just sounded to be one of those, but perhaps not.
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