BlueKitsune

Does anyone know where I can get the harness side of the connectors for the reverse light and Neutral safety switch? I dont want to cut the plugs off on the transmission. Nor do I want to solder to the wires either.

ZLover4Life

... it has been over a year since I've worked on it, but I believe it's part of the engine harness, so you're either replacing the whole harness or cutting and soldering.

When I had a wire break near the connector for the reverse light switch, I did male/female crimp connectors to take its place.

BlueKitsune

I mean cutting of the connectors on the transmission. Remember this is an auto to 5speed swapped car. And I was thinking of bullet connectors but I can get to the wires enough to even cut/crimp them! the ones on the trans i mean.

BlueKitsune

I figured out a way to hook up the Reverse lights and the Neutral safety switch! And now they work fine. New ECU gets here tomorrow hopefully so I hope I fixed everything right.

Only thing I noticed is bad is that the connector for the oil pressure switch is missing and idk what colors the wires are....

BlueKitsune

Got the repaired ECU and.... ****! its still doesnt work. and I put the N/A ecu back in to do an O2 test and now its blowing black smoke over 2K rpm and randomly dieing! what the hell is going on here.... everything is grounded, everything tested ok everything should be fine. I figured the N/A ecu would run the motor extremely lean. not extremely rich.

ZLover4Life

I thought it ran fine before when you swapped in the old NA ECU? Did you rev it then?

Do a fuel system test (I've detailed how to do that multiple times on here). Check MAF, as well (there's also been discussion on how to do that as well).

BlueKitsune

I didnt rev it with the n/a i figured that may be a bad thing the first time. *facepalm*

And I checked both. they both are fine.... I'll check it again but I'm at a total lose now.

oh and no one on TT.net has a stock TT near by that isn't over 5 hours away. or hasn't logged in in a long time.

NismoPick

Dino, J, and several others from the UZC own TT's... but they are all in SLC.

BlueKitsune

All the ones I saw where heavily modded TTs... Hmm. Think anyone would be up for a road trip? lol

ZLover4Life

What's the big deal if they're heavily modded? Most heavily modded cars still use the same general tunes (the only differing factor is injector size and intake arrangement), and even the custom tunes are still just different fuel maps which would work, but not be optimal in your car.

And you never mentioned testing your fuel pressure... how'd you do it and what were the results?

BlueKitsune

I put the pressure tester between the out of the fuel filter and the input on the rail.

And I though the high end tunes wouldn't run right at all in a stock TT thats why I was worried about that. Now I'm worried about this car frying their ECU lol

ZLover4Life

... and? What was the gauge reading? Was it steady? Did you turn the car off and observe any pressure drop?

Legitimate concern... but if it's someone who has a general performance tune, you could always try your ECU in their car and see if it runs or not. If their car runs, the ECU is fine and your problem is elsewhere.

BlueKitsune

I quoted the pressure lol

50 PSI peak (first second on, and cranking) 41 PSI when off and it holds

ZLover4Life

My mistake... I multitask and I thought the quote was my post that you were responding to.

The fuel system appears to be fine... look up info on testing the MAF.

And I know you said the injectors are "fine," but did you verify this by testing resistance?

BlueKitsune

Hmm I lied I didn't test the maf. I tested its grounds.

And I've been searching but I cant find info on the maf test.... FSM isnt much help either.

And I'll retest the injectors but they where all withing specs last time, I think they where between like 12 and 14 ohms.

BlueKitsune

WOOT I got it running! It overheats like hell tho till I turn the heater on the it drops to exactly half in like 2 seconds.

BUT a turbo is blown possibly both of them... Oil all over the intake pipes and in the IC and bleh. I know I have to pull the motor to get them off but uh how do I fix them? or do I even dare try. I'm assuming rebuilt turbos are an arm and a leg.

NismoPick

so........ what was the problem?

As for the turbos, HTT (High Tech Turbo) in Salt Lake is the place to take them.

BlueKitsune

I think the problem is that I just learned this is an 93TT motor and ECU. and I was using a 90TT Wiring diagram. lol anyone have a 93 EFI wiring diagram?

And I just pulled the intake and maf. and theres oil behind the maf.... uh what

NismoPick

94 FSM... http://www.xenonz32.com/reference.html (93 not listed)

BlueKitsune

I'd rather have the right year for once Cuz I think I may have actually fried the ECU this time. well part of it

BlueKitsune

well if that 94 wiring diagram works then the ECU STILL isnt properly triggering the ign coil relay.

BlueKitsune

Ok Wiring is good now. I just used a relay with a key on power to ground the other relays sense the ecu doesn't want to do its job.

And I checked over the PCV too. only one line is hooked up at all everything else is left open. and the one line is hooked into the wrong spot! I didnt touch the vac lines on this engine! bleh more stupid little stuff. Thats why it looked like the turbo was bad.

ZLover4Life

... how long have you had this car and where did you get it from? Sounds like a nightmare.

Expect to spend nearly (if not over) a grand to rebuild both turbos... and then expect them to fail in a couple short years. At least replace the CHRAs completely, rather than rebuild.

BlueKitsune

My friends son bought it just becuase it was a 2+2TT. and my friend got it from him who then gave it to me to fix (tho hes paying for the parts) and I've been working on it for... almost a year now on and off.

And THANKFULLY its not the turbos spewing oil. It was someone who put the valve cover lines in right behind the maf. not right before the TB.

ZLover4Life

Gotta love morons who try to do TT conversions, huh?