2DLogic

I know there will definitely be more to the build than what was listed, but the larger turbos will be what easily push the power to desired levels.

As I said, I'm not looking to have to run race fuel/additives regularly, I am shooting for around 400 for daily use, with a separate tuning map for higher octane fuel and turning up the boost.

Still, surprising power can be made even on stock turbos with the right tune and supporting breather mods. Demolishing the Stock Z32 Turbo Record | Specialty-Z

Unfortunately the car is dead right now. All was well driving the car home and for a few days, after moving the vehicle in my driveway and letting it sit overnight the car will not crank, nor start.

-Security light on the dash is NOT blinking
-Interior lights do not come on when door is opened, no interior power when key is in an in the On position.
-Headlights and horn Do work, and are not dim nor distorted. Headlight indicator light on dash DOES come on.

It happened once before and while I was sitting in the car thinking, and subsequently playing with the interior light switch, the light suddenly came on. I tried to crank the car and it started first time, like there was never an issue.

At this point I'm thinking that it has to be a short somewhere, or an issue with the security system... If it were the starter/relay then I should have interior power and a security light. If it were the ignition I should at least have interior lights upon opening the door and a security light.
As far as I know the factory security system is still in place as the dash indication light does blink when things are normal.

I really haven't had a chance to test anything more than locking/unlocking with the key and making sure all hatches are closed and wires/fuses/relays are plugged in because its been pouring down rain here for the last few days.
Providing it doesn't rain today, I may try pulling the security system module and see if that does anything.

EDIT: Car is alive again!
One of my dad's mechanic friends came by and we started checking everything we could think of, turns out one of the fuses in the box by the battery had corrosion down in the plug which was causing a short. Just in case anyone has a similar problem the part number that was causing an issue for me was 24021-V5020 "BLUE Fusible Link". It looks like a fuse with a wire looped across the top.

We also ended up finding an aftermarket security system which was only partially hooked up, so we ended up pulling it out too.