Ok I need to figure out a few things. I NEED to know which year engine I have so I can get the correct parts.

And I also want to know if there is a diff between the TT Manual trans and the N/A manual trans. Because when I did the trans swap we put in an N/A trans (the guy swore up and down their the same but hes also an idiot) and he had to shim out the starter and machine the inside of the bellhousing for it to fit over the flywheel.

Once I figured out which engine I have its off to the machinist to get it cleaned up and ready for rebuilding.

 

The transmissions are the same, but the bellhousing is slightly different. The NA bell housing will work if the starter is shimmed for the larger flywheel. No machining is needed on the inside, though.

SEARCH TWINTURBO.NET FOR HOW TO IDENTIFY ENGINE YEARS. I already told you I can't really help you there.

 

Hmm strange. It needed just slight machining to fit over the TT flywheel. Well I'll just get one of those custom shims so I dont have to remember how many washers was needed. That puts my mind at ease.

Also I did search and it was useless. All I was able to to is narrow it down to between 90 and 93. Stuff I already knew.

 

**** it. Its a 93TT JDM engine. thats my call. That And I took apart the ECU to look for something fried and theres a sticker on the EPROM that says "93TTAuto" and I know this is the ECU with this engine as all the text on the outside is Japanese, even the VOID stickers.

 

In all honesty, the gasket kits didn't change all that much from year to year... any gasket that doesn't fit can be purchased individually and it won't cost too much.

 

I sorta figured that. but I also wanted to know so I get the right ECU and harness as well.

 

Well heres the current state of that Z



And here is this white wire that I can NOT find where it goes. but I "think" it has something to do with why my interior lights and radio doesnt work at all. The part thats going down just goes right to the starter no where else.

 

I'm think that white wire goes directly to the battery + terminal, but the length makes me worry... I'll think about it and post back if I come up with an answer. You could always try it, though... it's a white wire, it's definitely supposed to be hot, rather than a ground. Connect it and see if that solves your problem. (The reason I can't recall for sure, by the way, is that I relocated my battery to the hatch and simplified all the wiring.)

And your intake ducting makes me want to cry. Get some real intake piping in there, please.

 

Actually the line is of of the battery, look at the black cable cover its going into, so its actually a hot wire(hence the tape on the head so it doesnt ground out and fry something) and idk where it goes....

And I know its really horrible thats why I'm looking for the stock SMIC hardpipes and an aftermarket set of silicone pipes.

 

I thought it was just sharing that sheathing with the positive cable... it is connected to the positive cable, though? (You tested with a multimeter?)

 

Yes thats how I know its a live wire. 12v same as the battery and I have pulled that entire cable out to make sure it only goes to the starter to that wire and to the battery, no where else.

 

Starting to prep the motor to be pulled. I got a jack that might work to hold the trans so I dont have to bull them both at once. idk which will be easier.

 

I never pull the trans with the motor, but you can't just leave it in its normal place (you'll never get the trans stabbed when you put the motor back in). Lower the trans to the floor.

 

... I didnt even THINK of just leaving the trans alone and unbolting it and leaving it in there! And I can take the trans out at a later date to stab it back in seeing as I wont get the motor ready to go back in for months probably.

 

Ok I'm wrting down my parts list, and I'm looking at the 300Degress fuel rail and New higher CC injectors (not sure what to get, maybe the 555cc ones) but I'm wondering if I should buy the 95 harness for the new injectors, even tho the ECU and everything else is a 93.

Can I do that or will I just end up getting a 93 Harness and mod it to work?

 

Just get the 93 harness and splice in the injector connectors. I'm not sure if there would be any other differences on the later harness that might give you trouble otherwise.

 

What about the constant + to the injectors VS the Switched power?

 

What about it? You can easily wire the injectors to have switched power.

Switched Power Rewire @ ECU

Switched Power "How Nissan Did It" tech article

How-To: Injector Switched Power Line Using Fuse Box Tap

... see the kinds of things you can find on TwinTurbo.NET if you just learn how to use it?

 

I'm trying to learn how to use it lol I've never seen a forum like that before! But Thank you none the less.

 

That's how the forums were before vBulletin took over. I prefer TT.NET's style - can't bump a thread that's been dead for a year, and the response format is MUCH more coherent because you never have to quote anything - you just respond directly to the comment. Here's how it works.


I'm Saying Something, and This is the Start of a Thread - ZLover4Life
_____This is the newest response directly to ZLover4Life - SomebodyImportantTT
__________I'm responding directly to what SomebodyimportantTT said - SomeoneElse
_____I'm the second person to respond directly to ZLover4life - NobodyAutoNA
_____I'm the first person to respond directly to ZLover4Life - SomebodyNA
__________I'm responding directly to what Somebody NA said - SomeoneElse


Any post title that doesn't end in (n/m) has more body, if you click on the post (or mouse-over).

And the FAQ, AutoFAQ, and Search just give you lists of topics...

 

Ah ha! Ok that makes more sense now! Ok ya that actually is easier. tho no more mile long threads that last forever as they always get pushed down huh?

 

Not only do they get pushed down, but after they are locked after 2 days in General, 4 days in Technical. This is because everything worth saying about a specific topic is said within those time frames... in a thread like this, we've covered multiple problems, which all were deserving of their own topics, as different people would have experience with them and many might never see them if they opened the main thread and only read the first post.

 

Ah I see. So I'd make a new one for every new good question. Ok

 

Not exactly a relative question here, but is it safe to use an N/A FPCU in a TT if it was rewired for the N/A pin set?

Apparently the ******* previous owner fried the TT FPCU and just hard wired the fuel pump to stay at 100% whenever the ignition is on, so now regardless I am getting 74psi of fuel pressure on the return line whenever the key is forward.

 

hell yeah dude....work in progress..congratzz.