1990 300ZX NA 5-spd Z32 shuts off at 5500rpm
#1
1990 300ZX NA 5-spd Z32 shuts off at 5500rpm
Hello all,
I'd like to try this again. I'm having a hard time with my car, and I'd appreciate some expert or experienced advice. After all the work outlined in my previous thread, the car now shuts off - like there's a kill switch - when the RPM hits 5500. It will restart, and it drives just fine below that RPM.
Does that sound like an ECU? I'm not a car guy, so please forgive the lack of information if I left anything out. I'll get whatever details are necessary to troubleshoot the problem.
Thanks,
Pete
I'd like to try this again. I'm having a hard time with my car, and I'd appreciate some expert or experienced advice. After all the work outlined in my previous thread, the car now shuts off - like there's a kill switch - when the RPM hits 5500. It will restart, and it drives just fine below that RPM.
Does that sound like an ECU? I'm not a car guy, so please forgive the lack of information if I left anything out. I'll get whatever details are necessary to troubleshoot the problem.
Thanks,
Pete
#2
Tps
Your Throttle Position Switch might be going bad or out of adjustment, or possibly a corroded connector, the TPS is setup to monitor whether you are at Idle or WOT(wide open throttle), if the ECU is not getting the correct signals, the car will barely run, and have terrible throttle response, I would start there 1st. The FSM clearly goes over testing and setting the TPS. If you don't have a Sevice manual, you can download a free version online. Google z32 fsm, xenon is the site
#4
I got into the computer and read the codes currently showing:
11- crank angle sensor circuit
12*: air flow meter circuit
13*: engine coolant temp. sensor circuit
34: detonation sensor circuit
Can anybody make sense of it? Now I'm think crank angle sense circuit.
11- crank angle sensor circuit
12*: air flow meter circuit
13*: engine coolant temp. sensor circuit
34: detonation sensor circuit
Can anybody make sense of it? Now I'm think crank angle sense circuit.
#5
whew thats a bunch. I personally don't put much credence in the trouble codes on the early Z's. might have been fine when you took it to the dealer and they kept changing (and charging) parts. you got a toughie. Not sure on the z32 but z31 had a speed limiter. which makes what you got sound plausible. crank angle sensor if it runs is probably good. ECU possible. Maf you can test but again does not make sense to cut off. CHTS (probably what they mean by coolant temp) possible but again not too probable. Det sensor makes the most sense for cutting out. try pulling the connector and see what happens. doubt it is tps just leans out the engine at a stop light to improve gas mileage.
Last edited by rogerz; 10-04-2014 at 05:51 PM.
#7
For those interested
This is what it took to get my Z car running properly:
checked fuel injectors: ohm out good
Mass air flow meter bad
Crank angle sensor connector bad, dirty and poor connection causing Cutout
ignition timing set to 15degree (was 10degrees)
Inspected sparkplugs: very poor
knock sensor Code: borken circuit repaired
This is what it will take to get my Z car safe to drive:
Drive shaft replacement (cause of vibration)
steering rack bushings and alignment (cause of steering wheel angle)
spark plugs
a/c control pod loose NOT SAFETY
oil change (no oil sticker)
In all, that's about $1800. In addition, I need about another $1900 into it for essentially a 120k service. The car has 83k on it, and with this money about $10k into it. After this, the only things left should be cosmetic. I finally found a Z specialist who cut to the chase. Not cheap, but as I've come to understand, nothing is with these cars. When it gets back to me, I'll post a pic.
Pete
checked fuel injectors: ohm out good
Mass air flow meter bad
Crank angle sensor connector bad, dirty and poor connection causing Cutout
ignition timing set to 15degree (was 10degrees)
Inspected sparkplugs: very poor
knock sensor Code: borken circuit repaired
This is what it will take to get my Z car safe to drive:
Drive shaft replacement (cause of vibration)
steering rack bushings and alignment (cause of steering wheel angle)
spark plugs
a/c control pod loose NOT SAFETY
oil change (no oil sticker)
In all, that's about $1800. In addition, I need about another $1900 into it for essentially a 120k service. The car has 83k on it, and with this money about $10k into it. After this, the only things left should be cosmetic. I finally found a Z specialist who cut to the chase. Not cheap, but as I've come to understand, nothing is with these cars. When it gets back to me, I'll post a pic.
Pete
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