Riz Z Speed

need some feedback guys.
i wanna make the suspension upgrade chart. Just want to hear some suggestions/opinions on what order they should be in. Just like the stage chart for performance, i'm thinking that the more difficult suspension stuff should be towards the higher end of the chart, easy stuff first.

1.Tension rods/bushings
2.Front Strut Tower Brace
3.Rear Strut Tower Brace
4.Sway/Antiroll bars
5.Sway/Antiroll bar endlinks
6.Shocks/Struts
7.Springs
8.Front Upper Arms
9.Rear Upper Arms
10.Rear Traction/Toe Arms
11.Power Steering Rack Bushings
12.Subframe Bushings
13.Differential Bushings
14.Front Suspension Bushings
15.Rear Suspension Bushings
16.Adjustable Front Lower Arm
17.Adjustable Rear Lower Arm

ok, i forget anything? Stuff in the wrong order? You have no clue what i'm talking about? Let me hear it.

CanyonCarver

This would be the order I'd go by and in groupings. Some things I wouldn't do by themselves, although you could go to adj. uppers without lowering the car. And, how many times would you want to have to do an alignment. I did add a few items highlighted

First and foremost, anything that is worn out takes precedence over any order or grouping.


Group 1
6.Shocks/Struts
7.Springs
8.Front Upper Arms
9.Rear Upper Arms


Group 2
4.Sway/Antiroll bars
5.Sway/Antiroll bar endlinks

wider, stickier tires


Subframe Spacers


Group 3
2.Front Strut Tower Brace
3.Rear Strut Tower Brace


1.Tension rods/bushings


Group 4
11.Power Steering Rack Bushings
12.Subframe Bushings
13.Differential Bushings
14.Front Suspension Bushings
15.Rear Suspension Bushings


Group 5
10.Rear Traction/Toe Arms
16.Adjustable Front Lower Arm
17.Adjustable Rear Lower Arm


6-point roll cage (stiffens chassis)

and last, but not least, for most of you, weld them thamn holes up that you got in your roofs (further stiffens chassis)


Just my opinion.........

91zxtt

Adjustable tension rods are required when you install the adjustable upper arms; otherwise you'll wear out the bearings in the upper arms really quickly. I've added estimates on what someone would expect to spend and the manufactures that I recommend.

Stage 1 ($525)
Sway bars (Stillen or Suspension Techniques) and solid end links (SPL)
Subframe spacers (SPL)
Power Steering rack bushings (Energy Suspension)

Stage 2 ($1500+)
Shocks/struts (Tokico or KYB) + springs (Eibach) [Coilovers are another option]
Adjustable F & R upper control arms (SPL)
Adjustable tension rods (SPL)

Stage 3 ($850+)
Strut tower bars (Carbing)
Rear traction/toe rods (SPL)
HICAS eliminator kit (TT) (SPL)

Stage 4 ($1300)
Adjustable F & R lower arms (SPL)

As one converts over to adjustable suspension parts, many bushings are eliminated. Replace the bushings as you go along. Upgrade to NISMO bushings. The subframe bushing job is major. I'm staying away from it. I've heard the ride quality goes in the sh*tter.

I would recommend that the diff bushings be replaced when a 1-piece driveshaft is installed; which of course isn't directly suspension related, but worn diff bushings have been known to cause some wheel hop.

I think the groups that I have here have helped reduce the amount of duplicate labor. Stage 1 is fairly inexpensive and likely makes the most significant difference. Stage 2 is a bit more pricey, but still affordable for most people and makes another significant suspension/handling improvement. Many will never get as far as stages 3 & 4 since the costs are quite high and there won't be as noticeable of an improvement.


My 2 cents.

lightspeed

With all the talk of strut bars, consider the reviews on the SPL front fender brace that seem to indicate that, though much harder to install, provide significantly improved stiffness over strut bars. About the same price as high quality strut bars.

http://www.splparts.com/Parts/Z32/Su...ng/default.asp

The other item I noticed is that you didn't mention adjustible ride height in your coilover items. You may want to articulate that option, again though more expensive, provides some flexibility in tuning, specifically corner balancing.

And if you lower the ride height, you need to replace the tie rod ends to improve the geometries and reduce bump steer.

Riz Z Speed

Hmmm....seems like you guys like to group things.....That's sooo against the chart rules!!!

lol j/k

ok, 91 and CC since you guys seem to be the suspension experts. I'll leave it to you two to hammer out the details of the groupings and stages.

91zxtt

Yes, tie rod ends should be included. I feel the adjustability of ride height kinda goes hand-in-hand with coilovers.

We should include brakes; which would include rotors, calipers, pads, stainless lines, synthetic fluid and the master cylinder brace as well.

Chassis foan could be added as #5.

Stage/group makes no difference to me. I just put them together to reduce duplicate labor.

We must also stress that the allignment will need to be set after stage/group's 2, 3 & 4.

Riz Z Speed

Should we define Brakes as a general upgrade or stage those out as well.
Such as:
1.Slotted/Cross Drilled/Dimpled Rotors
2.Performance Pads
3.Brake Lines
4.Skyline Brake Kit
5.???Big Brake Kit

I put ??? cuz i don't wanna promote someone's big brake kit over another.
What you guys think?

91zxtt

That works for me. Maybe have brakes be stage/group 3 and move the others down one.

MikeZ

What about foam filling the chassis? I keep hearing about that technique. Apparently it removes the need of having a roll bar in some respects(but not in safety), also it improves ride through a stiffer body. JUN auto of Japan makes some form of this foam reinforcer, as well as 3M I think.

91 mentioned this, so props to him!( i didn't read all of 91's post...sorry)

RollinaZx

I am in the same place, looking forward to seein it all