Ok... I'll try to be as descriptive as possible as I hate people who say "it wont start whats wrong???" This is an '86 non turbo auto

- 2 weeks ago it became mildly difficult to start the car in the AM (thought it was the cold)
-once the car started it was rough for a few seconds but then was fine
- This has progressivly gotten worse
- Yesterday it was next to imposible to start unless I turned the key for several seconds (30ish) and held the pedal to the floor
-When it would run it ran rough (really rough and rmps were at like 8 at idle) and would blow BLACK smoke
-Also, at this point the car smelled like gasoline when I tried to start it
-finally yesterday it refused to start at all all the while smelling like gas

I'm pretty sure i hear the fuel pump priming though it was humming loudly for a while yesterday

I pulled off the airfilter (K&N) to see if the filter was clogged or something and it changed nothing

What order of things would you recomend checking? I'd like to konw your oppinion so I waste as little money as possible hunting this down.

I'm thinking:

-plug wires
-plugs
-tps sensor
-clean injectors
-fuel pump (but why would it smell like gas if this broke?)

 

pull the plugs. If they smell of fuel, then the best thing to do is look at your electrical system (ignition supply and control). If they are not wet, then it's very possible it could be fuel supply related.

Check your fuel pressure as well. And when was the last time the car had a "COMPLETE" tune up?

 

ok... I replaced all plugs (except the middle one on teh drivers side) and plug wires (all plug wires) and the car started right up... but the longer I drive it the more it begins to stutter and hesitate...

The plugs were black and had sand (yes sand!!!) caked on them.... What could be fouling them ???

 

black would mean that either it's getting too much fuel. Or your motor is leaking/burning oil. It also could mean that the ignition is weak.

Was the "black" color greasy or powdery?


But from your original post, it's definately running rich.

 

It is suppose to have a richer mixture when cold. That's a good thing. Unfortunately you're not putting enough fire in the wire to combust it properly.

The sand sounds weird. Probably carbon deposits that were burned white, and a little crusty.

The fact that the engine starts easier, now, after the partial tuning indicates you are on the right track. You just need to go a bit further.

For instance, a new cap and rotor (genuine Nissan only) would complete the basic tune-up you did.

Also, you may want to check the ECU to determine if (and what) codes are being given. That's an excellent diagnostic tool for trouble shooting all of those pesky, but important engine management sensors.

What's up with leaving an old plug in the engine? Why didn't you change it as well? Couldn't you figure out how to get a socket on it, or, was it tougher than you and won the arm 'rasslin contest?

 

well... I didn't change the middle drive's side (#4 i think) plug because I either couldn't get the socket around it or whoever had the car before me stripped it. I just could not get any grip on it... I wish I could have gotten it but no grab... anyone have any tricks???

So only buy nissan issue cap and rotor for the distributer??? Dang... nissan = expensive. I changed the fuel filter last night as well.... still running slow but its a n/a auto so that is to be expected.

Here's another question... I had to replace my ecu a while back. I got the same year and model and ecu number and all fo that (way to many and's) but on this one... when i went to do the ecu test the little **** that you turn was set all the way to one side (which ever way you turn it first in the test). Does anyone know if that is correct or where (relatively speaking) that **** should be set?

Lemme know and thanx for all your help

Austin

 

have you checked your afm?

I HAVE ALL THE PART ANYONE NEEDS OR WANTS EXCEPT THOSE VERY FEW WHICH MADE MY 86 na 5-SPEED BE NO LONGER A CAR.DETAILS IN ITS OWN THREAD.

 

Some will find this hard to believe, but the plug/lug socket that is in the tool kit is, by far, the superior socket for removing a seized plug. It just won't slip. I tried mine out of desperation. All of my plug sockets would slip, but that crude looking Nissan socket got the job done.