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Intake Manifold Block-Off and other ?

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Old 06-18-2014, 04:11 AM
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Intake Manifold Block-Off and other ?

I'm looking at blocking off the intake manifold at the three points to make things a little simpler. But I am curious if I do that what rpm's the car will run at after I do this?

Can I bypass the pressure regulator solenoid?

I have an 86 N/A.

Z is idling rough and a lack of power.

I'm in the middle of replacing FPR, Injectors, Valve cover gasket, plugs, wires.

Does the block-off bypass the A.I.V. and what is it's function?

Thanks for an advise.
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Old 06-18-2014, 08:41 AM
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86T. I've got all that junk on the left side of the intake manifold gone. blocked off the hole with a homemade aluminum plate but someone posted a storebought set for $25 bucks. try a search. also rerouted the hoses to carbon canister to eliminate those three ugly steel tubes running across the front of the engine. Has not affected the engine running that I notice. I do have to warm up the engine in the morning for maybe 30 secs or it stalls out but after that she is fine there is probably some stuff on the left fender well can be gone also once you get the hoses rerouted. just turn the short hose to the fpr 90 degrees and you're good. get a set of Magnacore wires they are best and not a lot more than NGK or Bosch. if you are doing all that what is the condition of timing belt? belt snap good bye engine. replace the chts also. blow out the plug holes with air they tend to collect things like small screws that don't help you engine. get this extension or one like it makes plug extraction a lot easier. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...ic%20extension

loosen throttle body screws to make #6 easier to get at. new dizzy cover and rotor. valve covers a pain try a long shank #2 Philips and button down the screws often works just fine. If you like your z31 as much as I like mine here is some more things to spend money on that make it a lot more fun to drive

Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen. Usually on a rainy night around Oh Dark Thirty.

Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.

Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.

if someone cobbled those one size fit all clamp on battery terminals to your battery cables take them to a real (not WalMart) battery shop and have them crimp on new lead sealed terminals.

Last edited by rogerz; 06-18-2014 at 08:52 AM.
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