todd5854

Hey guys, just got a Z31 300zx. Checked the fuse box on the kick panel, and every single fuse checked out fine. At first, the wipers would work sometimes, but now they do not work at all. My fuse burned up, literally, it melted, but did not blow. 15a fuse on the wipers. I tried to bridge the pins with another contact but nothing... my dash lights flicker sometimes at a constant rate. When they ARE acting up, the interior visibility lights don't work. But when the dash lights ARE NOT acting up, the car functions normally, minus the wipers..

Where should I start? I feel the two are somehow related.

rogerz

first off - if you specify z31 we know it is a first gen 300zx. second they are different depending on n/a, turbo, slush box or stick, digi dash or analog and year. to get meaningful answers you need to provide that information. put it in your signature and it gets published automagically. hope you got a vom. if not get one. then download the fsm from xenon for free. take the relevant section on a thumb drive to Staples or whatever copy place is close by. have them blow up the schematics to 11x17 to make them more readable. start tracing circuits to find out whassup. probably got a short in the wiper motor circuit. check fusible links. here is some general advice to get you past some of the more common z31 problems:
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.

Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.

Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.

If you are doing a turbo car shocks (electro adjust I think may be only on the turbos) then you need the adapter plates to fit modern shocks to the car. Easiest way is find an n/a at the junkyard and take the mounting plates. They may be available thru NAPA (listed) but I had the n/a plates.

zxguy1986

As rogerz says, Z31 electronics do NOT LIKE a flaky or weak power supply and do all sorts of crazy things when the supply is flaky. You have to check your entire alternator/cables/battery set up for output, clean, solid terminals, connections, etc, see if you're charging at 14+ volts while running and that your battery is holding and outputting the power at 12v and up, amps as rated for the battery. Replace alternator, battery and/or terminals if any are bad or under-performing. Places like Sears and parts stores will check them under load for free by hand held computer.

If that is all fine and doesn't solve the wacky stuff, sometimes a previous owner will have wired up stuff directly to the fuse box and accidentally shorted out connections by leaving loose copper strands behind. I would take out all the box fuses, vacuum out the whole box completely with a strong brush vac attachment and then replace all fuses, checking that each has the correct amp rating. If fuses look old, get new ones. Check that the cleaned fuse sockets are bright metal, free of dirt and corrosion, and grip the fuses right.

If that doesn't do it, you get to start checking your circuits... but report back when you are OK with the steps above and still have wacky stuff happening.

todd5854

I am looking to get coilovers for the car. Looking at these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-1989-Nissan-300ZX-Z31-Stance-Coilovers-Super-Sport-Adjustable-Lowering-Kit-/271332114672?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A300ZX%7CYear%3A1985&hash=item3f2ca780f0&vxp=mtr

A- Are there other options for lowering the Z31? That's more or less all I could find.
B- Where would you recommend buying poly bushings, tie rods, and other parts from for my car? There are many places. Where would you go? I want ALL new bushings, just like you said.
C- What gauge sheet metal is this car? I was told 18ga frame rails, 20ga floors, inner quarters, and 22ga body, such as doors, hood, fenders, etc. Is that correct? I need to repair my outer A-pillar (rotting) and I don't know what gauge I need.

Its a 1985 n/a 2+2 t-tops 5 speed car with the analog dash. Sorry, I didn't think there was too much difference in models. I will hook the multi-meter up at the wipers and see if there's current. I bet the FSM has the pinout. Luckily this car is NOT my daily driver. Right now its on jackstands as I repair the frame.

rogerz

look on line for moog tie rod ends and bushings. try amazon.com first. msa has bushing kits. mine doesn't need lowering. I would do the things I mentioned first then decide if you really need to lower it. Don't neglect tires. old boots don't ride well. you need to gt it aligned after changing things. Metal gage can't help you. get a micrometer and find out or just eyeball it not too critical unless you go thinner. assuming you have good welding skills. wire gun with gas is best. flux core wire sometime you have to use too much amps.