zdadgeezer

Does anyone have experience with converting to Electronic ignition and if so what kit/brand was used? Want to make it as reliable and efficient as possible. This is for an '86 na.
Thanks

FlyingT

The Z31 already has electronic ignition.

zdadgeezer

I guess what I meant was doing away with the rotor or possibly distributor. A total electronic module.
Thanks

PredatorZ

The S30's( 240z,260z etc) were the last Z's with points, all later models have electronic ingnitions. You can upgrade to a better coil like the MSD Blaster 's.

PredatorZ

Not sure a distributerless ignition is available for our cars, if it were you would be talking a lot of money, and why would you do this and what were your percieved gains ?

It's always some new guy asking wierd out there questions dreaming of spending endddless money on his project. These older cars have lots of issues that need attending to, to just make them reliable, and the ignition isnt one of them.

zdadgeezer

Like I said, I was looking for advice not opinions. Technology is always improving and I am interested in keeping this on the road reliably and efficiently, those are my gains if there is something better.. If the search proves "pointless" which it appears to be I have my answer. What's weird is not trying to make it better.
Thanks for your input.

FlyingT

What PredatorZ was saying is any 30 year old car needs attention on what is broke or about to break long before looking to improve the technology. A properly restored VG30 can be as reliable as any present generation car. We are not talking about carburetors, chokes, points like the 240Z. The VG30 engine was produced as the VG33 in the Xterra until 2004 with little change other than displacement. So it is the grand daddy of modern Japanese engines. The VG30 was the first Japanese V6 production engine

zdadgeezer

I understand completely. And my Z is in pretty damn good shape given the work that's been put into it and I intend to keep it that way.
BUT
I was curious if there was anything better given the points Predator and you have mentioned regarding age and wear. I like being proactive instead of reactive.
Let's just make it an academic exercise.
I'm not here to aggravate. I want to learn more about what works and what doesn't and the simplest way is to pick the brains of the ones with experience.
Again Thanks for your input.

PredatorZ

As far as reliability, like many older cars the wiring deteriorates over time, the plastics becoming brittle and the metals corroding. Upgrading the Fuel injection connectors and many of the sensor connectors like the TPS and MAP will greatly improve reliability. A member Fricfrac, an MSEE I believe, so he knows his stuff has sourced a kit to upgrade those connectors, and made it available to us at a discount, (he sells them on ebay).
Also a star ground system will add additional robustness to your electronics by providing a solid and common ground to the systems. Run a ground wire from your neg battery to ground on your ECU and run a wire to your Plenum/ intake manifold, ( lots of sensors grounded here)
Suspension can be upgraded and improved.

Are you looking to restore your car or do some modifications for better performance and handling ?

zdadgeezer

" Are you looking to restore your car or do some modifications for better performance and handling ? "

Yes!!
In the sense that I want it to not let me down while going to Nashville or Canada. I have attached some before and after photos as examples. If I need to start a new thread on this let me know. Short history. My Dad bought it new when he retired, he kept it clean. Got totaled, he rebuilt it. He passed 2 yrs. ago and I kept it. I did sub frame bushings, springs, struts, had all suspension elements at least verified for wear that had not been replaced. Full exhaust(MSA ceramic coated headers, 2.5" stainless from there all the way back. Local fab/ friend who builds this stuff). I knew about the weak history of the A/T so I took it to Level 10 and Pat bullet proofed it. I have questions about single shaft vs. 2 piece that's in it. I'm happy with it although the A/T unit in the rear may be acting up not sure how to trouble shoot it. Interior is clean and original except for drivers seat repair. 116k doesn't drip.
Sorry I got carried away. Nothing radical but clean. Thanks for the grounding tips.

PredatorZ

Maybe I missed the post, but since it was your dads car, you probably know when the timing belt was last changed. You might be due for one at 120k, and if the car has set for extended periods of time, the belt can develop flat and round impressions from sitting. Since these engines are "interference", if the belt breaks pistons and valves might play tag, and that can be expensive.

zdadgeezer

Yeah!! First thing I did. Then the other stuff. Also Fuel sending unit(analog). Oil never gets dirty etc... I don't drive it every week but I start it and run it for about 10 to 15 minutes when I can over the winter.
I try to keep my hand in the maintenance and some light duty but the heavy lifting I leave to professionals.
One thing I have noticed, I have set the timing by the book to 20deg it had been at 15, but I can't get the idle to stay at 700/750. I followed the procedure and set it using an external tach but after driving for a bit it crawls up to 900/850 and unloaded it is 1000 or more. Ideas? Reason?
Thanks.