Darcy Bekkema

I have had a slight miss on my NA 87 for some time now, seems to go away when warm. I've done a tune up with oem parts from Courtesy Nissan. Car does run rich. I've tried MAF adjustment via directions on XenonZ31 with no luck. Might need new O2 sensor, yet to replace due to NA2T I'm planing this year, so I just leave it unplugged. I've replaced CHTS and made new sub harness. I did swap tps a few years ago when I did engine swap, mine was manually donor was auto. At the time I didn't know TPS need to be set via volt meter. I set TPS last weekend and now I have a slit miss when I touch and let off throttle. It will also back fire when I'm hard on throttle. But only when letting of as in shifting gears. Car also seems to have move pep when cold. Any input would be greatly appreciated. I try not to post because 95 percent of the time I can find a solution via searching, but can't find anything that has same problem. Have ran codes only get 41 and 22 fuel pump circuit.

SLFD507

I'm having the same issues with an 84 N/A. Part of the problem is that mine sat for 2 years and I'm being slow about fixing all of the bugs. Mine runs better when cold as well, interesting... My biggest problem is I hear vacuum leaks but haven't located them all yet. Also my battery will drain after 3-4 days of sitting without being cranked. Must be a slow drain on something.

Darcy Bekkema

Don't think mine is vacuum leak. I've deleted and capped off most of my lines. Only have vacuum pump and curse control hooked up. Everything else has been removed and caped off. I've had this issue for 3 or more years. Before and after tune up and removal of vacuum lines. I've replaced all the injector connectors with new quick disconnect ones. Sprayed other ones with a contact cleaner and then greased with dialectic grease. Swapped out 3 different maf's and one ECU 87 NA auto. Might be a bad CAS but it tested fine. Other then that I guess I need to take to shop and get a compression test.

PredatorZ

Dielectric grease is for hi voltage hi pressure contact.. IE spark plugs, How can a normal contact fight all the grease ? clean that crap up

Dielectric grease

Dielectric grease is electrically insulating and does not break down when high voltage is applied. It is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of lubricating and sealing rubber portions of the connector without arcing.

A common use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with gasoline engine spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally spark plugs are located in areas of high temperature, and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected. It can be applied to the actual contact as well, because the contact pressure is sufficient to penetrate the grease. Doing so on such high pressure contact surfaces between different metals has the advantage of sealing the contact area against electrolytes that might cause rapid galvanic corrosion.

Another common use of dielectric grease is on the rubber mating surfaces or gaskets of multi-pin electrical connectors used in automotive and marine engines. The grease again acts as a lubricant and a sealant on the nonconductive mating surfaces of the connector. It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector because it could interfere with the electrical signals passing through the connector in cases where the contact pressure is very low. Products designed as electronic connector lubricants, on the other hand, should be applied to such connector contacts and can dramatically extend their useful life. Polyphenyl Ether, rather than silicone grease, is the active ingredient in some such connector lubricants.

Silicone grease should not be applied to (or next to) any switch contact that might experience arcing, as silicone can convert to silicon-carbide under arcing conditions, and accumulation of the silicon-carbide can cause the contacts to prematurely fail. (British Telecom had this problem in the 1970s when silicone Symel® sleeving was used in telephone exchanges. Vapour from the sleeving migrated to relay contacts and the resultant silicon-carbide caused intermittent connection.)

Darcy Bekkema

Well crap thanks for the tip. I'll be getting another can of contact cleaner and removing it from everything except the plug wires. Anything you recommend to prevent corrosion on the connectors. Never mind it's there in second last sentence.

rogerz

my 85T had a miss that disappeared after a new dizzy head and rotor. what about your plug wires? 507 You need to do some work instead of posting what you didn't do.

Pred Z is dead on about dielectric grease. never did understand how that misinformation got started. just look up the definition of dielectric should tell the tale

Darcy Bekkema

Did plug wires with cap and rotor. NGK ones like recommended. Only thing that wasn't done during tune up was dust cap. Didn't know it needed to be done till I got the parts and the instructions recommended it be replaced.

PredatorZ

Rogerz swears by the stuff, I havent run acrosssed it at my local parts store

Darcy Bekkema

Have limited options up here in Canada. Just found PB blaster and sea foam. I'll see if I can order some of Ebay or Amazon. Have to use amazon to get GL-4 for the transmission.

Darcy Bekkema

Video of what happens when I connect and disconnect the TPS. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tju4...ature=youtu.be

Darcy Bekkema

I cleaned off the grease. Ran codes its only coming up with 44 (normal operation). Still runs rich, either O2 is bad or harness because the green led doesn't flash. Going to read up and test it.

Darcy Bekkema

Put in new O2 sensor. Runs a little more ruff. Going to check plugs, seafoam it on the weekend and check ECU again.