Timing belt change
04-28-2002, 10:08 PM
#2
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Re: Timing belt change
the tensioner bolt does NOT NEED to be replaced. it is simply prentative maintenece if you do it. about the timing though...you have to set the #1 piston to TDC before removing the belt. otherwise, the cams tend to move around after belt removal which could potentially destroy the engine upon startup. as a backup, you might consider marking the locatations of each cam and crank sprocket with white out or something in case you get the belt off and lose TDC
04-29-2002, 09:23 AM
#3
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Re: Timing belt change
You probably won't NEED to set the timing, but it's always a good idea to double check it when you are done.
http://zbum.nissanpower.com
http://zbum.nissanpower.com
04-29-2002, 09:44 AM
#4
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 342
Re: Timing belt change
replace the stud - it's a 2-3$ part that has been through at LEAST 13 years of heat stress.
I know of 2 people who's bolts broke on them, and one of those was 2 weeks after opting not to change it when they were having the belt done...
3$ vesus 300$+ if you gamble and lose...
you should check the timing afterwards but unless it's WAY off it shouldnt matter much. borrow a timing light or buy one, use it then bring it back. autozone may 'lend out' those, call and see, then it won't cost anything.
I know of 2 people who's bolts broke on them, and one of those was 2 weeks after opting not to change it when they were having the belt done...
3$ vesus 300$+ if you gamble and lose...
you should check the timing afterwards but unless it's WAY off it shouldnt matter much. borrow a timing light or buy one, use it then bring it back. autozone may 'lend out' those, call and see, then it won't cost anything.
04-29-2002, 10:11 AM
#5
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Re: Timing belt change
I guess my post didn't take. We forgot to line up the crankshaft pulley when replacing the belt. Engine running rough and can't set the timing. The other 2 pulleys were fine. Now we have to go back in and fix it. Don't we have to remove the belt to set the piston to TDC???
04-29-2002, 04:09 PM
#6
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Re: Timing belt change
Yes, you'll have to do it all over.
First, set the crank to TDC.
Then, remove the belt.
Then, move the cams that shortest distance to TDC.
Reinstall belt and adjust tension.
http://zbum.nissanpower.com
First, set the crank to TDC.
Then, remove the belt.
Then, move the cams that shortest distance to TDC.
Reinstall belt and adjust tension.
http://zbum.nissanpower.com
04-29-2002, 05:16 PM
#7
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Re: Timing belt change
Let me make sure I got this;
Pull off the vibration damper and turn the crankshaft bolt so the pulley lines up with the mark off the oil pan housing.
Then take off the belt and turn the cams to line up with their respective marks.
Install new belt and line up the white lines to the marks on all 3 pulleys.
Question: do the drive shaft pulleys get put back on with the timing indicator marks on top? I believe 0 degrees is TDC.
My engine calls for 20 degrees though.
Pull off the vibration damper and turn the crankshaft bolt so the pulley lines up with the mark off the oil pan housing.
Then take off the belt and turn the cams to line up with their respective marks.
Install new belt and line up the white lines to the marks on all 3 pulleys.
Question: do the drive shaft pulleys get put back on with the timing indicator marks on top? I believe 0 degrees is TDC.
My engine calls for 20 degrees though.
04-29-2002, 05:36 PM
#8
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Re: Timing belt change
Correct on all accounts. And the marks on the pulleys will only go on one way, pointing straight up. Yes, the engine calls for it to be "timed" with 20 degrees BTDC, but TDC is TDC is TDC. The timing is adjusted at the distributor. All the marks WILL line up (or be within 1/2 a tooth). The tricky one to see is the crank mark. You can either use a mirror, or I used white out on the front edge and underside of the belt to continue the standard mark. Don't worry, it comes off rather quickly and doesn't hurt anything.
http://zbum.nissanpower.com
http://zbum.nissanpower.com
05-01-2002, 09:22 AM
#9
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Posts: n/a
Re: Timing belt change
Thanks all. Got the timing down and engine running good except for some rattling by the timing belt covers. We couldn't get all the screws in, any suggestions? Replaced alternator, water pump, front oil seal, hoses, belts. A truly wonderful lesson and experience for the first time. haha.
05-01-2002, 10:22 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 342
Re: Timing belt change
the timing cover on one of cars had the gasket bead stuff coming off. I took some gasket maker that comes in a can (like cheez whiz) and made new beads that were a little bit thicker than the old ones. (clean the covers with some dx-330 from ppg first and it'll stick real good)
I figure the old ones used to be thicker anyway before 14 years of heat.
if the nuts on the backplate are stripped the only solution i've found for that was to pick up a good backplate at the local yard.
If that's not an option (which for you may not be as it would require removing everything you just got finished bolting back on...) then try using a 10mm bolt that's long enough to pass all the way thru the nut on the backplate and put some loctite (not the superglue type, or maybe some rtv instead) and a nut on the end of it.
you could always grind off the nut that's on the backplate and use a shorter bolt, but not all of them are very accessible if you've already got it back on the engine.
you might also use a tap/die set and try cleaning the threads (on the backplate) or threading them a little larger and using different bolts.
you can buy new little rubber washers like on the orig bolts from the dealer, not sure how much they are. I ran across a whole bag of them at the junkyard that were brand spanking new! Guess prev owner was *thinking* he'd replace them before he/she totalled the car.... I imagine if those are missing it could make it rattle some too.
I figure the old ones used to be thicker anyway before 14 years of heat.
if the nuts on the backplate are stripped the only solution i've found for that was to pick up a good backplate at the local yard.
If that's not an option (which for you may not be as it would require removing everything you just got finished bolting back on...) then try using a 10mm bolt that's long enough to pass all the way thru the nut on the backplate and put some loctite (not the superglue type, or maybe some rtv instead) and a nut on the end of it.
you could always grind off the nut that's on the backplate and use a shorter bolt, but not all of them are very accessible if you've already got it back on the engine.
you might also use a tap/die set and try cleaning the threads (on the backplate) or threading them a little larger and using different bolts.
you can buy new little rubber washers like on the orig bolts from the dealer, not sure how much they are. I ran across a whole bag of them at the junkyard that were brand spanking new! Guess prev owner was *thinking* he'd replace them before he/she totalled the car.... I imagine if those are missing it could make it rattle some too.
05-01-2002, 12:31 PM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 342
Re: Timing belt change
as long as nothing is hitting or rubbing against your belt you should be ok.
Personally I like the idea of having it protected from the elements, dust/dirt, small rocks, bugs and anything else that might try and find it's way in there.
Personally I like the idea of having it protected from the elements, dust/dirt, small rocks, bugs and anything else that might try and find it's way in there.
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