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Old 06-27-2012, 10:45 PM
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Unhappy new to Z

hey whats up, i just purchased a 87 n/a,auto 300zx. it is my only mode of transportation at the time. there is a list of features wrong with it and any and all advice given is dearly appreciated.

1) rough idle, almost stalls out, especially when in park and giving it gas..?
2)falls on its face from 0-45ish..thereafter I'm doing 70 in no time..?
3)sketchy wiring in a few spots, p.s. i know nothing of electricity..?
4)dry rotted vaccums here and there, no biggie, but i dont believe their ran right
5)engine bay gets abnormally hot, temp gauge down, but no boiling water..?
6)when shifting from (P) to any other gear, it hunkers down, almost like it has a tranny shift kit, but im not sure if it has one stock..is this regular..?
7)as mentioned before..temp gauge down, along with gas gauge reading fine until half but will not go any lower, left headlight on the fritz (will work after switching lights on and off about 10 or 20 times)
8)running rich, blue/white smoke..?
9)a little camber on the rear, is this ok, does it cause any diif problems down the road?

aside from driving this car all i have done is change the fuel filter, which didn't seen to be clogged at all. i would greatly appreciate a list of parts i may need, in addition to any quick fixer-uppers that may space out the depression of my wallet inbetween checks. thanks ahead of time for any knowledge given =)
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:25 AM
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Welcome to ZDriver!

For all the engine problems, you should start with a check of the ecu diagnostic codes ( XenonZ31 ECU Diagnostics ), then report back.

For all the wiring and vacuum problems, you'll just have to dig in. Make sure you download the free FSM ( XenonZ31 Reference ).

Dunno what "abnormally hot" engine bay means... in the summer time, if you open the hood and stick your head under there, it will probably feel like your skin is melting. Get a digital thermometer and check the temp if you are really worried. If you let it sit a few minutes after a drive, the under hood temp will be around 175* - 200*F. Remember... the exhaust manifolds get up to 500* - 800*F under normal driving conditions. The heat has to go somewhere (up).

And are you talking about + or - camber?
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:17 PM
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thank u

thank you first and foremost.

ill have to get back with you on the ECU and vac problems. when i referred to abnormal its just seems really really hot under the hood, even after being parked for some time and just idling. i want to say out, im not uber familiar with the terminolgy, as a description they are in towards the top and out at the bottom.
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:36 PM
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gasp!!

dude i have never in my life seen a self diagnosing car, that is so dope!!! i cant even think of how to thank u for help thus far man i appreciate it
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:05 PM
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don't get too excited about it. I've never gotten much help from the flashing lights. if you are saying it squats when hitting the gas then pretty much what a z31 does when the shocks are shot. replacing vacuum hoses will get your climate controls working a lot better. and some other things but not really to run bad except when you have vacuum leaks then the car is running lean because there is unmetered air (that the ecu does not know about) so the ecu is only putting in enough fuel for the air it is measuring. camber kinda normal on a z31 no adjustment and if the shocks are shot well??? blue smoke bad means burning oil. white smoke worse means blown head gasket usually. try to find a z club near you most members willing to help if asked politely
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:05 PM
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thank you

i havent had much time with her today, im also working on subframe connectors for a 80 amc spirit with a 500hp 340, but aside from that.. its not so much when i hit the gas as it is just going through the gears brake applied. its not bad, it just simulates a camero i had with a b&m shift kit in it, just wondering if its normal. i get paid fri so the vaccum lines and a connector kit are on the shopping list. the shocks ride very well but i am interested in an aftermarket suspension, preferably adjustable. any reccomendations? i met the guy who had this car before the lot got it and he said he didnt maintain it..oil spark plugs, wires, fluid flush nothing. so now im really concerned how long it was treated this way.
Gonna be a long day tomorrow, much to do, even more to expect. i thank u all once again for all the info i pray this all gets cleared up in the nest week or so.

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Old 06-29-2012, 03:11 PM
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some news

i finally found the ecu, however it was on the right hand side instead of the left like the link stated, either way thank you nismopik.

the only code i received from ecu was 13, which points to the CHTS. to make sure i was working correctly i unplugged the FTS, it flashed the code for it the second time i checked it. plugged the FTS back up and it read the same as the first time.

Can the CHTS really be causing all the issues? i couldnt see the sensor from the from of the motor, im assuming ill have to at least remove the timing belt cover??
i drove it today before we started working on it and at the corner i ripped on it one good time and it responded promptly and was gone.

someone has done a hack job on this wiring also. i installed a d player today and judging by the wiring diagram i pulled up, only a portion of the wires was correct.
also discovered today was the fact that my radio antenna doesnt work. i believe the motor is shot in it, no problem there really, ill junkyard that part

also noted today was my oil pressure..not as high as i thot it would be, it reads like 50 lbs is this correct or normal..?

Oil, tranny, rad, and brake fluid changes and flushed to take place this weekend. hoping this will help a little bit.

any more tips, advice, hints, or just good juju u may have stored away and would like to share please let loose. im a willing advocate. i will keep yall posted on any and all progress, or failures (hopefully not).

peace
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Old 06-29-2012, 07:59 PM
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oil pressure sending units are notoriously bad on z31's as i've recently found out myself. a genuine nissan replacement should get you up and running during your weekend oil change.

as far as the chts, if the ecu doesn't think the engine's reaching the correct temps, all sorts of stuttering and sputtering can ensue. check the connector for corrosion before replacement, and you may just have to clean it.
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Old 06-29-2012, 10:26 PM
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just replace the chts unless it checks out with an ohmeter. should be 2.1 to 2.9 kohms at around 70 F. just checked one today only reason I know that. but it is in the fsm and yes it can cause all kind of weirdness. Just clip the wires and get rid of the connector atop the engine block solder and heatshrink get rid of a possible trouble point. use a new fuel injector connector for the unit itself. do a search there is a write up on line on how to replace without dismantiling the whole engine.
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.

Clean the connectors for the maf, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
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Old 07-01-2012, 02:11 PM
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learn something new everyday

thank you both for the replies. i will try to find this particular cleaner u mentioned. maybe they have it at advanced. thanks for the tip on not having to dismember my motor to replace this item. imma search for it here soon and i will get back with yall with any updates on the z thank u both again for the tips and advice.
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:07 AM
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when goin into the motor i was ready to change this CHTS i noticed a rubber type seal around the timing cover. does this need to be changed as well? will it matter if i don't? done my oil change and minor tune up things. the seal isnt much but i would like to know the importance of it.

thank you ahead of time for any and all advice
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