1984 Turbo MAF Problems
#1
1984 Turbo MAF Problems
So I have a 1984 50th AE and I recently started having a problem with the MAF sensor. I immediately bought a new MAF sensor and replaced it. I started her up and nothing changed. So these are her symptoms. When the car is started with the MAF sensor plugged in it will idle around 400-800 RPMs jumping around that range. As soon as I unplug the MAF sensor she will idle normal on the stock maps, but obviously I can't really drive on stock maps. I'm thinking it's electrical, but I can't figure out what is could be for sure. Any help on what to test would be greatly appreciated.
#2
first off why do you think the maf is giving you problem? they are fairly simple and foolproof unless someone stuck a screwdriver in there. also a new one didn't do a thing for you. it is called wasting money on an idea without getting any information to confirm. download the fsm from xenon for a start so you have something to refer to. Get the fuel pressure, check the timing, check the vacuum. here is somethings to do:
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.
Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
after you have some test results try another post with some clear data on what you found.
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.
Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
after you have some test results try another post with some clear data on what you found.
#3
first off why do you think the maf is giving you problem? they are fairly simple and foolproof unless someone stuck a screwdriver in there. also a new one didn't do a thing for you. it is called wasting money on an idea without getting any information to confirm. download the fsm from xenon for a start so you have something to refer to. Get the fuel pressure, check the timing, check the vacuum. here is somethings to do:
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.
Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
after you have some test results try another post with some clear data on what you found.
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.
Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
after you have some test results try another post with some clear data on what you found.
#4
screens have absolutely nothing to do with maf operation. even if they are clogged up the maf still tells the ecu how much air is going to the engine and it adjusts the fuel to suit. the maf measures the air flow thru it and doesn't care that it isn't getting full flow. when you throw parts at a problem because someone else had a problem you are throwing money away.
#5
is it stock ,as far as the air filter, those things were a joke on turbos, way to resritictive . but not likely your idle prob. swabbed out the throttle plate lately ?
is it flashing any codes on the ECU ? if so you really need a breakout box and the service manual, multi meter ,in other words the dealer service.
is it flashing any codes on the ECU ? if so you really need a breakout box and the service manual, multi meter ,in other words the dealer service.
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