NismoPick

So we've had many new threads over the past few months asking for help because their 280zx won't start or run right. It's always the same checklist and I don't feel like typing the same thing any more.

So who wants to do a thorough write-up on the common 280z / 280zx / 280zxt running problems and what to check for?

I'm thinking we should touch base on:
-"My car won't start!"
-"My car runs rough!"
-"My car has no power!"
-"My car hesitates!"
-"My car won't go over 2k rpm"

etc...

Also:
"My a/c won't work!"
"My car has no electrical power!"
"Why is my red check box light on!?"
"What is this sensor light?!"

We could compile all the info here, then create a thread, or someone can just create a new thread. Please remember to use proper spelling and grammar, and make sure the problems / procedures are accurately explained and easy to follow.

WanganDevilZ

We should all compile our experiences, and add them together on one sticky!

When my engine bogged down, and wouldn't go past about 1.5k-2k, I came here and learned it was possibly my CHTS, but I was not able to confirm, as my headgasket had blown and all I was doing was flooding my cylinders with coolant, before I was able to test the theory.

Everyone band together to create the ultra sticky!

Skully

17k posts about same thing eh Nismo, kinda gettin tired of it eh? lol

FricFrac

That is EXACTLY what I was thinking today. There's been the exact same problem (maybe different problems but the same issue) come up in the last couple of weeks like 5 to 10 times from newer members. I go to all sorts of Z car forums and honestly this is the best and most active S130 forum out there. NismoPick you blow my mind with how patient you are with everyone even guys giving you random grief when you're trying to help out. We were talking about making a reference site for the S130 and I think if we work on some of these stickies we can migrate them later to an S130 specific reference. Forums are great but digging up info can be a real pain and answering the same questions is massively time consuming. I think what we need to do is maybe a sticky on what to do when you get a new-to-you 280ZX. A lot of this is basic checking and maintainance stuff. A weak battery on a 280ZX will give wierd problems whereas on another vehicle it either works or doesn't. Ground cables another easy to do but can cause some strange problems. Vacuum lines - replace them all.... etc, etc, etc. Then a link to the FSM as well and once it's done up sticky right at the top saying

"If you have a problem with your 280ZX READ THIS STICKY FIRST!" or something along those lines...

Duck Ryder

Sounds like a good idea... btw, going to post asking for help on why my car won't start XD.

But I do know why it wont start, no spark!

Lesnocker

How about a stronger use of the pages. . . . And break it down. . . . . . Zx electrical. . . . . Zx transmission. . . . . Zx emmission control. . . Ect . . . . Ect. Then break it down further. . . . . Stereo wireing ect. . . Clutch problem . . . . . No gear ect and. Egr problems. . . . . How to tell if computer is bad ect ect. . . . Like a haynes manual . . . Except down to earth and sooo soooo commen ailments of the zx. Lotta work but if we all team up be a lot smoother?

Lesnocker

Here is the bitch ! I bought my first z . . . . It ran like hell.. . . . Two garages said I need a vet "what's a datsun" "oh its a truck?" the last garage said they don't care junk it and leave me alone. . . . So at least here the garages are zero help! ! So you search the net and get "Buy Datsun keeps stalling at borders books" Lol get my drift. . . A lot of my issues were "What sensor will cause the engine to die warm" Head temp . . . Amf. . . . . Ect so If we go through the basics of what will cause an issue and make it easy to search for the first timer well would be nice? Just my thoughts

NismoPick

Do you mean sub-forums for each of those problems? I hope not... new members have a hard enough time finding the Classifieds, which I have made very visible.

I definitely don't want to turn the forum into the same **** style that other Z forums have adapted... "No search?! BANNED!"... but Yes, like Skully and Wangan have said, I've said "a motor needs 3 things to start" about 17k times now.

iamericgee

This would be awesome !!!!!!!!!!thank you nismopick !!!!!!

MurphyEF

I'm a long time lurker here at ZDriver. I have found that this section of the community (for the S130) is by far the most thorough, patient, knowledgable, and precise place to go for s130 help. While I admit that searching can be quite tedious (see my latest thread for even me that had made a concious decision to skip doing it), all of the information seems to already be here en masse. We just need to go ahead and organize, retype, and sticky it. I give this project a thumbs up!

ThaPimpShrimp

Agreed, agreed, and agreed. I do my fair share of asking questions around here but of course I'd love to give back and I do my best as I am learning. And while I am not as experienced as most of the rest of you I am great at formatting text and webpages (essentially anything to do with computers) so I can help in that way. Hell I'll write up a directory in html. I am also great with editing photos.

So essentially what I am offering if it's wanted is to organize/edit everything to make it look nice, and read well.

Lesnocker

That's where I was heading to we need a "Datsun repair for dummies" with chapters . . . . . Chapter one is a datsun for you? Chapter two things to look for in buying a datsun. . . . Chapter 3 what are commen problems making my new datsun not start. . . . Chapter 4 what's the white cloud and why am I always over heating? You guys get the point . . . . My issue when I got my first z was no help at all two garages thought my Datsun was a "Dachshund" and I needed a vet. . . . The last was the garage told me we don't give a **** junk it were not even looking at it. So we really need a book so to speak the fsm is not entirely useful to trubble shoot a problem so eh my thoughts.

NismoPick

This is what I typed up on Monday, thinking I'd finish it throughout the week, but I just don't have the "gumption" to go any further at the moment.

Who wants to continue on and modify from here?



This thread is dedicated to diagnosing the common problems on Datsun 280Z / 280ZX / 280ZX Turbo EFI (electronic fuel injection) systems. Most of these problems can also be applied to cars in general. If you need more help, guidance, or are completely lost after reading through these steps, feel free to post your question in the appropriate forum and we will discuss. But remember, you are expected to use our search feature to research the topic (as your question has likely been asked before in the 30+ years of the car’s existence).

Before going any further, please download the FSM (Factory Service Manual) from XenonS130 280ZX FSM Downloads / XenonS30 280Z FSM Downloads or buy the Haynes Manual (based on the FSM) from your local auto parts store. Do not waste your money on the Chilton’s or Clymer manuals.

All factory diagrams and part numbers can be found at:
Nissan4u OEM Parts Diagrams
Find all Nissan parts and look up part numbers at:
Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com
and
Nissan Parts | Online Nissan OEM Parts and Accessories

We have a General Tech section dedicated to all common Z questions:
ZDriver General Tech Section

If you need stock or aftermarket Z parts, we have lists of stores and vendors:
S30 (240Z – 280Z) parts: Where to buy parts for 240, 260 & 280 Z's - ZDriver.com
S130 (280ZX / Turbo): Where to buy parts for your 280ZX - ZDriver.com


When diagnosing starting problems, always begin with the basics. Most non-mechanical-failure problems can be remedied by an in depth tune up and check over. Many problems can also be prevented by routine maintenance. Listen to your car (literally).

So why won’t my engine start?!
An engine needs 3 things to start (if the engine is mechanically sound):

• Proper air
• Proper fuel
• Proper spark

#1: Is the engine getting air? Usually not a problem unless the air filter is completely clogged or you sucked up a large rodent.

#2: Is the engine getting fuel?
Check:
Fuel pressure?
Flooded? (check CHTS plug)
Is the fuel pump running / getting 12v power? If no, check pump relay & fusable link.
Fuel pressure regulator leaking / holding pressure? If leaking, replace.
Ecu getting power? Check LED light. If no power, check fusable links / ecu.
Car battery voltage? Should be at 12.1v – 12.6v. If below, charge or replace.

#3: Is the engine getting spark?
Check:
Spark at the plugs?
If no spark, check:
Ecu LED light?
Fusable links?
Timing? n/a = 8*BTDC, turbo = 24*BTDC
Is coil bracket grounded?
Power to ignitor? (on dizzy for n/a, on coil bracket for turbo).


My car runs rough / sputters / stutters / hesitates / won’t rev over 2k!
***Car won’t rev over 2k: pull and clean TPS plug***
Check:
Timing.
Pull and read spark plug tips.
Pull all sensor connections and check for corrosion. Clean connections.
Test sensors (mainly CHTS, AFM, and TPS). Tests are found in the FSM / Haynes.
Check for vacuum leaks. Check ALL hoses.
Check compression. Are all cylinders within spec?
Check fuel injectors. Are all spraying?

ThaPimpShrimp

It's definitely a good start! I'll be thinking about things to add. We need to make a general thread or website or something that you are required to read right after you register and before you can post. Something that covers links to guides for every car. (By the way I don't remember if we already have something like this in place )

For a quick example..

Welcome to the Zdriver forums!

Before posting in any of the sections please read the introduction post for your specific car. It will help you if you are having issues and covers many of the frequently asked questions about your car.

If you own an s30 (240z, 260z, or 280z), click here!

If you own an s130 (280zx), click here!

and so on.. it could contain more information too. Just an idea.

FricFrac

Don't forget rust clogging the filters or getting past it and into the injectors
for low fuel pressure esp with guys trying to run cars that have been sitting for 15 years...

Link to HEI module replacement for turbo ignitor replacement.

I would also suggest for rough running to replace all the vacuum lines not just as a trouble shooting but a preventative maintainance thing. It's a cheap repair that eliminates a lot of grief.

Electrical maintainance - you need a good solid power supply to run an electronic system (eg the computer that controls how good/crappy your engine runs).

First make sure you have a good battery and charging system. That means taking the battery to a shop that can test it under a load and check the alternator at the same time. Putting a meter across the battery terminal will tell you what the floating voltage of the battery is but not necessarily it's health. The volt meter on the dash can also be out to lunch (but you can calibrate it so it is fairly accurate.....)

Second make sure the power is getting to where it needs to be. Make sure you have a good electrical connecton at the battery. Replace terminals/cables if they are corroded or any of the strands of wire are broken. Make sure the ground has a good solid connection to the chassis AND the transmission/block/starter. The stock ground wire is crimped on - are the wires frayed or corroded? Make sure you've got close to what the battery terminal voltage is to where it needs to be. Does the ECU have close to 12.7V if the battery is at 12.7V. Do the lights run close to 14.2V if the battery is at 14.2V? If not is there a bad connection or a bad ground?

Also one question NismoPick - why didn't you write this up in September 2005 or were you just trying to crack 17K posts

NismoPick

Keep it coming!

No kidding! If I had, I'd probably be at 10 posts right now. I think it's because the 280zx's are now coming out of the woodwork like you said... it's making a re-appearance, and mostly by the younger "not yet seasoned mechanic" age.

FricFrac

Doh - link the the AFM rebuild (eg the link that still works lol - might want to archive that one...)

joel280zt

Why is there no information on Oz delivered 1983 Datsuns?

joel280zt

Its because there cheap, and fun to drive maybe?

SHADY280

As far as no start dealing with the air section you could also use a compression test for internal engine health. No compression means no start. So far a great start nismo. I agree we need this as well. Ever since my how to do your intake the questions really stopped on that subject. Hopefully it will be the same for this

FricFrac

Nope it's because they are all the discarded 2+2 NA cars they couldn't sell in Japan ;P

FricFrac

JK of course. I guess it's time for the Aussies to step up and bring the info to the forums You guys keep hogging all the RB30's so it's the least you could do

koprutzxt

(redone for nismopicks viewing pleasure) I will not discuss why your car won’t turn over or start at all because that’s dumb.
Well if your car is capable of warming up please do that before diagnosing. Always replace the cap and rotor, plugs and wires (not used wires from your other ride but new ones) and if they’re not NGK do not pull on them cuz they'll tear, starter, alternator, these are essential before even complaining about your rides performance. AFM if possible (oriellys has them for 150 and they work it’s just a little flapper gate with a chip), and all hoses if they look old or hell if they don’t look new. Also, float the injectors not an essential but you'll hear about it later. Note i have a z hoarder down my street so i have access to all z's from RHD 240’s to 50th 300zxt he lets them rott in a grave yard (indian sheds tear at homeland). so i can cross check parts all day to see what works. Never blame the ECU if its badd this can be confirmed with a wiff the burnt smell will never go away.
P is for problem. A is for answer
so your car starts then shuts off?: how exactly is it doing this u should ask yourself..

P: If your car drives fine then it stumbles and dies and won’t turn on again, but then sometimes will start.
A: first of all there is no such thing as a Z that runs worse when its warmed up, something has gone bad after receiving so much juices from the car running. check the ignition module strapped to the ignition coil, its function is to tell the car when it’s safe to turn on and also when to stay on. It can become eroded especially if you have been cranking your car over and over trying to diagnosing issues. You cannot see the erosion because their plastic, mine looked new but was battery dust on the inside. O’Reilly’s carries them but kind of pricey but "new" .I pocketed one from the z grave. Also check the knock sensor by the starter if you were playing with the starter then u could have bumped off the connection because the knock sensor usually won’t break.

P: second, your Z starts then stops wont idle unless you give it gas, its fine when it warms up then won’t go over 10 20 or even 30mph.. if it does sometime when you’re driving flooring it has little response or the car will slow down on hills including highway up hills.
A: you have a problem i read about online daily "clogged injectors" yes i know you say they’re not but you haven’t flush the tank, have u..??? No one wants to take the damn fuel rail off but that’s why you upgrade and do not put the trombone rail back on. So my car would start then die unless it was warmed but then was hesitant and sluggish. Gunk can plays trixks on you. When the lines are warm they expand including the metal in the injectors allowing fuel to pass through clogged ones. Best way to check pull the filter off, how clean did the fuel come out? , have you flushed your tank in the last 3 decades? Are your 30 yr old injectors reliable? No.. You must replace all these to eliminate fuel issues from tank to chambers. Do not replace these things one by one, replace them all at the same time Daniel son. There is a guy on ebay sw60a he is here in sa but I found him on ebay he'll sell u a whole set of new ones about 140 bucks a fair price. turbo #f54 ,n/a fj3 his number is posted so call first ask for sam. New filter and get tank cleaned. after installing put a plastic carb filter ( won’t effect pressure or mileage) after the fuel filter because your tank will still be cleaning itself out after the initial clean and this way you can see it for yourself mister "it can’t be my injectors but haven’t check" and a new pump with year warranty because it will clogg again before that year. ive only seen one guy put the plastic filter before the pump but he had a 2+2 what does he know jk.. llool


P: so you suspect your injectors are not firing
a:The almighty harness here’s the deal, your wires become hard and you can’t tell they have cracked and lose contact. So take off the looms and check them. Most are self-explanatory such as repairing grounds through splicing and putting magic black tape over spots with multiple cracks in the plastic but no breaks in the wire. So i will focus on the EFI harness. Buy some node lights they plug in your injector connectors to test for spark via a LED bulb. oriellys has them in a set of 5 nodes for 20 bucks to test multiple connectors always ask to open the box to verify it has what u need. If for any reason the connector works then wont but then sometimes will, the connection is lose and should be replaced. Give the connectors a tug when testing if you’re scared you’re going to pull it out of the socket its already broken. Auto zone has neat connectors that have a spring clip so no more losing clips. i replaces all mine on both z's and note if you don’t get them all at the same store the price will rise on clips as u drive to the next store supply and demand with auto zone. But, u can pre pay at one store first.

P: the hard to answer one because none of us are electricians. Is my AFM bad??
A: how do u know right. Let papa tell you how with this super easy trick. If it’s bad your car will still idle, probably boggy maybe even just a bit if everything else on your ride is new, and rev up. But it should still show symptoms since you’re asking right.. Here’s how to check it. Turn the idle screw up (not the air/ fuel ratio screw) so your car will idle higher than normal and unplug the AFM. start the car, it should still idle. Plug the AFM back in. If the idle goes down then it’s bad, if it does nothing check connections by plugging in any z AFM to the harness. If there’s a change then your AFM is bad. The idle should increase when plugged in because the AFM will confiscate for the open throttle body by adding fuel as that’s its job. Just learned this trick to day..

P: so your fuel pump won’t turn on and its new. Here’s what you do.
A: check the pump via hot wire, the fuse, take the three fuel pump relays out. Turn your lights on and pull out the light relay and one by one plug in the fuel pump relays where the light relay goes. If the lights come on then the relays are fine put them back if their fine. You can check all your relays this way if you’re feeling lucky punk. If everything is fine then you have a wiring issue do not tear your car up looking for the wire that’s not how surgeons do it son. buy a kill switch hook one end up to the pump, and the other end to the batt or into the fuel pump relay spot(the relay must be plugged into the socket along with the wire) to get a circuit. i know the relay has 6 prongs but only one of the sockets holes will provide 12v power so try them all. The switch will have a spot to ground along with instructions put a fuse also .what size? Whichever does not pop when you put it in you silly goose.

misc. because i don’t waste time testing these parts : TPS, 9 times outta 10 your connector has become loose from the wires. Solder them back together. If the TPS is bad your car will not run period. Replace if unsure. You must turn off your car to adjust it every time or you will damage it. Distributor; check the little wire that connects to the ignition coil to the dizzy. If it’s not connected it will not spark. The z will run perfectly fine without and 02 sensor so don’t waste your time. Sometimes the cold start valve gets stuck don’t waste your time let her warm up. You wouldn't rush your lady would u??

trulywitit

You guys are the greatest!

trulywitit

Above and beyond polite.