corbith

I found the source of the thunk noise coming from mid to rear of the car. I lifted the car to have a look as initially the noise was only made at highway speeds when I hit a significant bump. Didn't initially see any problems, actually very clean underneath. After lowering the car and taking it for a test drive, it was making the noise consistently. Lifted the car again and found the drive shaft was rubbing the shield between the exhaust and driveshaft. See attached pictures of where rubbing was occurring. I tried tightening and moving the shield a bit but the only way to solve it was to remove the shield. Now, no problem. However, I am curious if this is a sign of any other problems and if it is safe to just remove the part?

I should mention, there did not appear to be any problems with the U-joints and the diff mount looked to be old but rubber was still present and not deteriorated.

NismoPick

That heat shield is about as thick as two sheets of tin foil. You can bend, mend, and whack it into shape. It does help reflect the exhaust heat to keep the transmission tunnel cooler.

And I'm glad you didn't go buy unneeded parts.

corbith

Thanks Nismo, I'll bend it a bit to avoid rubbing and reinstall next time I have the car up.

Next, I am going to install the MSA type 2 body kit and want to remove all the body trim before paint. I have two sets of sided body trim; upper really narrow trim and a wider lower trim. Does anyone know how to remove the lower wider trim? I looked in the service manual and have searched the board but cannot find the answer. I realize the front and back that meet with the bumper are screwed on but what about the pieces on the door?

corbith

I added this to the bottom to another one of my posts but it might have been missed.

I am going to install the MSA type 2 body kit and want to remove all the body trim before paint. I have two sets of sided body trim; upper really narrow trim and a wider lower trim.

Does anyone know how to remove the lower wider trim? I looked in the service manual and have searched the board but cannot find the answer. I realize the front and back that meet with the bumper are screwed on but what about the pieces on the door?

Also, any tips regarding kit installation are greatly appreciated.

NismoPick

It wasn't missed... just gotta have patience while waiting for responses (more than 4hrs). Merged threads.

The lower door & fender molding is held on by adhesive strips.

Google - How to remove molding

How To: Door Molding/Badging Removal - Car Forums and Automotive Chat

corbith

Thanks Nismo. Sorry for duplication, thought it might have been missed given I was changing subjects.

I will check that information out, wasn't sure if it was screwed in or just adhesive as the top, thinner trim is screwed in.

corbith

I removed the lower trim that is held on by some type of super strong adhesive. Now, I am left with the heavy rubbery adhesive attached to the car, I tried a heat gun and goo gone and can't get this stuff off! I ran out and picked up a 3M eraser wheel at lunch to try tonight. Other than that, any helpful ideas on removing this stuff?

FricFrac

razor knife/scraper?

corbith

I was trying to avoid using a razor and causing any body damage, did try an old credit card with goo gone but no luck. I tried the 3M eraser wheel and it's working a little bit better but still not well, took 2 hours last night to remove about 4 inches of the adhesive. Can anyone recommend a particular adhesive remover or any tricks that have worked when removing this trim?

MurphyEF

In my experience, it mostly takes some elbow grease. I generally use baby oil and a lint-free cloth or 100% cotton cloth for adhesives left over; it doesn't damage whats underneath.

NismoPick

If you want the trim to stay on the car longer than a few car washes and freeway drives, the adhesive must be really good.

It's too late now, but why are you taking off the trim? The MSA II kit actually follows those lower 82-83 door moldings.

corbith

I took it off as it was warped in a few areas and bowed away from the car on both sides. Not to mention, I really prefer the way z's look without trim, just a personal preference.

I know it usually takes some elbow grease to get adhesive off but this is the worst I've ever seen. The adhesive came off at the trim rather than the car so it's like a this heavy rubber compound remaining.

Was thinking about trying the following as this is evidently not your standard double-side tape: Product Catalog 3M US:*3M

Lesnocker

Glue is oil based on automotive trim. Kerosene will cut it good! The car was painted and clear coated before the trim was added so once you cut it down with good rubbing it should wipe clean like dirt off a window. Found this works after I got windsheild goop on our corvette white show room paint with black goop. Yea a freak out since it was left over night my grand father came over and wiped it right off lol also dilute 1 cup with a gallon of wash water and all your black plastic comes out new.

corbith

Thank you! I'll give it a try, didn't think to try kerosene.