Two questions:
03-25-2009, 05:29 PM
#2
Hoov for Pres!
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Tempe AZ
Posts: 959
Is the car running?
If it's running the best way to tune it is with a air fuel ratio gauge on a dyno. Or you can do your best with the seat dyno and check your plugs all the time.
There is a section on rebuilding AFM's. Pretty straight forward and simple.
If it's running the best way to tune it is with a air fuel ratio gauge on a dyno. Or you can do your best with the seat dyno and check your plugs all the time.
There is a section on rebuilding AFM's. Pretty straight forward and simple.
03-25-2009, 05:51 PM
#3
Rome, have you checked this yet? https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/js-how-rebuild-your-afm-15277/
03-25-2009, 06:22 PM
#4
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Posts: 18
The car is running, however unless I use the gas pedal to keep the RPM's at 1000, it dies. I've already replaced the oxygen sensor, and just took out the TPS and cleaned the corroded contacts, since an ohm meter said it wasn't working correctly. I have now put that back in my car, and adjusted it correctly. This however did not solve the idle problem.
Any suggestions on what it could be? I'm thinking about ordering a new CHTS, does anybody know what else these could be called, I couldn't find it on blackdragonauto.com
Oh and thanks for the replies.
By the way, the car had been running perfectly for the last 1-2 years I've owned it. This problem came out of the blue.
Any suggestions on what it could be? I'm thinking about ordering a new CHTS, does anybody know what else these could be called, I couldn't find it on blackdragonauto.com
Oh and thanks for the replies.
By the way, the car had been running perfectly for the last 1-2 years I've owned it. This problem came out of the blue.
03-25-2009, 06:25 PM
#5
What's the timing set to? Have you checked the spark plug tips to see if all 6 cylinders are firing the same?
One trick to see if the AFM is working correctly is to open the black cover & push the flapper lever w/ your finger (very slightly) to see if the engine speeds up or slows down.
One trick to see if the AFM is working correctly is to open the black cover & push the flapper lever w/ your finger (very slightly) to see if the engine speeds up or slows down.
03-25-2009, 06:36 PM
#6
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The car had been properly timed a few months back, so I'm assuming the timing is fine. I've recently changed all the spark plugs and wires, so there shouldn't be any problems there either.
I think I'm going to go try that AFM trick.
I think I'm going to go try that AFM trick.
03-25-2009, 06:43 PM
#8
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When I first got the car we went through and replaced all the vacuum tubes.
What do you mean adjusted good?
A few days back, I was driving home and it randomly did started. I had not been inside the engine bay recently before it happened.
What do you mean adjusted good?
A few days back, I was driving home and it randomly did started. I had not been inside the engine bay recently before it happened.
03-25-2009, 06:50 PM
#9
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: lemont, Illinois
Posts: 9,532
there's an idle adjustment screw near the throttle body, check it out! also, when you did the timing you remembered to tighten the dizzy back up right? lol. might be worth giving it a wiggle to check.
03-25-2009, 06:52 PM
#10
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Yeah I've tried adjusting the screw, doesn't change the fact that it won't idle unassisted though. That's a good idea since I'm prone to forget things haha.
So you say i have to give it a wiggle? which one should I present the car with.
So you say i have to give it a wiggle? which one should I present the car with.
Last edited by IRideRome; 03-25-2009 at 06:55 PM.
03-26-2009, 01:36 PM
#11
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Just to update you guys on the situation, I just finished doing the AFM rebuild, just moving the carbon track, since I don't have the necessary equipment to complete the rest of tune.
After that, I filed the corrosion of off every connection I could see, and sprayed it out with electronics cleaner.
So I went to start my car, and it still displayed the same problems.
But when I walked out behind it, this soot like substance had covered the ground behind my exhaust pipe.
What is going on?
I suppose it is running way too rich now.
One more question, is this the location of the cylinderhead temperature sensor? I can't seem to find it in my chilton manual (came with the car, would have got a haynes if I could. Is that the location of the CHTS? Nestled between the two spark plugs?
After that, I filed the corrosion of off every connection I could see, and sprayed it out with electronics cleaner.
So I went to start my car, and it still displayed the same problems.
But when I walked out behind it, this soot like substance had covered the ground behind my exhaust pipe.
What is going on?
I suppose it is running way too rich now.
One more question, is this the location of the cylinderhead temperature sensor? I can't seem to find it in my chilton manual (came with the car, would have got a haynes if I could. Is that the location of the CHTS? Nestled between the two spark plugs?
Last edited by IRideRome; 03-26-2009 at 02:26 PM.
03-26-2009, 03:17 PM
#12
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 38
my 79 280zx did the same thing... all of the sudden one day it just quit running right and wouldnt idle... i pulled my spark plugs and realized they were coated in oil... i also had those spots all over the driveway behind my car... turned out to be the valve stem seals
03-28-2009, 09:34 AM
#18
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Hmm, if they are two different things then it looks like I'm stuck with my order from the zstore.
It was kind of expensive for the CHTS from there, but the coolant temp sensor from rock auto was like $30 dollars less expensive, so I thought I was getting screwed there, if they were indeed the same.
I'm kind of mad at the zstore though, when I ordered, no where on the site did it say that it wasn't in stock, and then I get the confirmation email, and I'm going to have to wait another week for them to get the part in before they can ship it to me.
It was kind of expensive for the CHTS from there, but the coolant temp sensor from rock auto was like $30 dollars less expensive, so I thought I was getting screwed there, if they were indeed the same.
I'm kind of mad at the zstore though, when I ordered, no where on the site did it say that it wasn't in stock, and then I get the confirmation email, and I'm going to have to wait another week for them to get the part in before they can ship it to me.
03-28-2009, 09:59 PM
#19
The motor will have either a CHTS or a Coolant Temp Sensor, but not both. There's also the thermotime sensor for the Air Regulator. All three of these sensors look the same:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/engine-...-p-569132.html
Different than this:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/water-t...-p-569133.html
http://www.courtesyparts.com/engine-...-p-569132.html
Different than this:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/water-t...-p-569133.html
Last edited by NismoPick; 03-28-2009 at 10:02 PM.
03-29-2009, 04:55 PM
#20
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Update: Checked compression, seems fine.
I'm stuck waiting a week for a CHTS.
Update: Just went to start up the car, it ran perfectly for a minute, then the idle dropped from 1000, to 500, but unlike before, it did not stall and ran for five minutes until I chose to turn it off. The only problem is it's running extremely rich. How do I adjust that?
Also, turning the idle screw does nothing to change the idle.
I'm stuck waiting a week for a CHTS.
Update: Just went to start up the car, it ran perfectly for a minute, then the idle dropped from 1000, to 500, but unlike before, it did not stall and ran for five minutes until I chose to turn it off. The only problem is it's running extremely rich. How do I adjust that?
Also, turning the idle screw does nothing to change the idle.
Last edited by IRideRome; 03-29-2009 at 07:03 PM.
