I have a 83 280zxt, this car was actually my very first car. I got it from a friend for 800$, we got it running and then it started to act up. So my father made me get rid of it for something more reliable (wich to be honest was for the best). Well the guy i traded it to went out of bussiness and abbandoned the car, never took it out of our name ( awesome right? 
), anyway we got it back for 90$ haha, still runs but still has the same problem, go figure...
I have replaced and cleaned out pretty much the entire fuel system (fuel pump, fpr, filter, injecters, cleaned out lines), and replaced the air flow meter, O2 sensor, and ecu..... I can accelerate past 3k, but only if i ease into it. will not repsond to WOT, just cut out. Someone please help before I push this thing into a lake somewhere haha
), anyway we got it back for 90$ haha, still runs but still has the same problem, go figure...I have replaced and cleaned out pretty much the entire fuel system (fuel pump, fpr, filter, injecters, cleaned out lines), and replaced the air flow meter, O2 sensor, and ecu..... I can accelerate past 3k, but only if i ease into it. will not repsond to WOT, just cut out. Someone please help before I push this thing into a lake somewhere haha
The Good Twin
Welcome to ZDriver!
The main culprit of rev problems is the TPS. Try unplugging it and rev again. Also, what's the timing set to? And have you pulled the spark plugs and read the tips?
The main culprit of rev problems is the TPS. Try unplugging it and rev again. Also, what's the timing set to? And have you pulled the spark plugs and read the tips?
ok, i set the timeing, checked out the tps, and then checked every other connection on the car. everything checked out good. After i set the timeing i could give it full throttle and it wouldn't bog down amazingly ( who would've thought, *set the timeing and it will run better* haha) I took it for a drive, and ran it thru the gears pretty good, but i noticed when i got on it and held the gears, it wouldn't go past 4k rpm.....wierd.....
as for the plugs they are brand new, and haven't checked them yet.
what is this electrical device callsed???, it sits underneath the air flow sensor
as for the plugs they are brand new, and haven't checked them yet.
what is this electrical device callsed???, it sits underneath the air flow sensor
Grumpy & Helpful
vac tank vac pump. keeps vacuum up when under boost to make the climate control operate. here is some general advice that will make you happier with the car
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.
Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
have you inspected the air intake system for obstructions. mouse nest bird nest. the L6 is pretty bulletproof. needs air, fuel and spark to make her go. be sure the carpet isn't bunched up under the gas pedal an often overlooked problem and common to the s130. bet my buddy I could give him 20 extra horses. took it around the corner pulled out the carpet and got a case of beer out of it.
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.
Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
have you inspected the air intake system for obstructions. mouse nest bird nest. the L6 is pretty bulletproof. needs air, fuel and spark to make her go. be sure the carpet isn't bunched up under the gas pedal an often overlooked problem and common to the s130. bet my buddy I could give him 20 extra horses. took it around the corner pulled out the carpet and got a case of beer out of it.
quick question then ill get back on topic, what is this little box above my ecu, it electrical what ever it is
i have a brand new battery, and load test checked out. I was thinking about that very same thing earlier today at work, we had the same problem with my dad's car. ( he has a 2001 pontiac GTP 3800 SC) we had put a bigger wire back to the fuel pump to give it a good power supple. I was also thinking that about the power supply and grounds on any electrical system really, but with out a good ground and correct voltage, any thing elctronic just doesn't seem to want to run correctly lol. I need to replace the power and ground cables as they are the original cables. As for the connectors, i fixed all of the ones that were loose and corroded, waiting till tomorrow so i can get new cables and test it out. PAYDAY!!
Mr Z++ Wiki
Quote:
Nope it's the Vacuum Control Module (page EF & EC-69 in the '83 FSM - XenonS130)Originally Posted by rogerz
vac tank vac pump. keeps vacuum up when under boost to make the climate control operate. here is some general advice that will make you happier with the car.....
ok, I bought all new battery cable and connections, from battery, to frame to starter. still acting up, but not as bad. I can get the car past 3k to about 4.1k rpms now, but when it reaches that 4.1k mark, it cuts out just like it did before i set the timing. Is there an electronic timing moduel, or vacum timing modeul on this car any where?
i unplugged the tps and reved it and it wanted to fall on its ***, is there a way to tell it it may be malfuntioning?
so i feel like a complete moron, my car's year model is 82..... this whole time i thouhgt it was an 83.....wow lol if that makes any difference i don't knowseems like 82 and 83 are very similar
what is the purpose of the fuel damper?
Mr Z++ Wiki
Quote:
It makes the fuel wet. Well damp at least....Originally Posted by Jasen Dean
what is the purpose of the fuel damper?
But seriously folks... The damper is to take pulsations out of the presurized side of the fuel system.
Have you done anything for the poor ignition system? New cap, rotors and spark plug wires? How's your ignition coil? It's not uncommon for the coil or the ignition module on the distributor to work at low RPM but when it's under more stress at high RPMs it fails. Same thing can happen with spark plugs but you already checked those. Good battery cables? A good ground is critical for all your electronics.
I bought an MSD blaster coil, is there anything special i should to to hook this thing up?
I tried hooking it up just like the stock one, and it wouldn't run....
I tried hooking it up just like the stock one, and it wouldn't run....
Mr Z++ Wiki
Positive to positive and negative to negative. IIRC the Black wire with the white stripe is positive....
Lots of guys are running Blaster coils including myself. Should just be plug and play.
Lots of guys are running Blaster coils including myself. Should just be plug and play.
ok, i got the coil prblem fixed, got ahold of a bad coil bought a new one and it fired right up(but now my tac isn't working.....wtf?)
But the coild didn't fix the problem. I was told to check the valves by a freindly old man with a passion for these old cars and anything turbo charged haha. He said that if there is a a broken spring or the vavles are out of adjustment that it is possible for the engine to run at low rpms but under stress that it'll bog down due to a vavle(s) not closing, resulting in loss of boost pressure.
I also have another question, would the vehicle speed sensor have anything to do with my problem?
But the coild didn't fix the problem. I was told to check the valves by a freindly old man with a passion for these old cars and anything turbo charged haha. He said that if there is a a broken spring or the vavles are out of adjustment that it is possible for the engine to run at low rpms but under stress that it'll bog down due to a vavle(s) not closing, resulting in loss of boost pressure.
I also have another question, would the vehicle speed sensor have anything to do with my problem?
no..... sigh....., its giving me a headache thinking about it, its still doing the same thing but now its running increadably rich and idleling really low. I'm kinda leaning towards a new computer for it.
