FricFrac

Rest up - you'll need your strength to bed those bolts in if you can't get your hands on a bottoming tap hahaha (The hahaha is the shortened version of a long disclaimer which says don't actually do that ;P )

WanganDevilZ

Oh no, I went and got a tap and ground it down and made sure it threaded in before venturing, I feel better as of this afternoon and stumbled into the garage and got all of the threads ungunked, just waiting for more actual time (Still woozy) to be able to spend and concentrate out in the garage

Thanks for the suggestions, I had a regular tap but it was bottoming out with the starting threads, so I got one to 'break'

I'll keep it in the misc. tools drawer.

WanganDevilZ

Got my motor over to my friends shop to have a mechanic put it together so that I wouldn't screw anything up.

We were checking the crank to check if it turned, and it gave us a lot of resistance, so we loosened the main and rod bolts, and it started turning like it should. We re-torqued the bolts in the right order, to the right specs, and it wasn't as tight, but it was still kind of iffy. Plastigauge revealed that the bearings were also, in spec, and that nothing was an issue (This is based off of the rear rod bearing), the rest of the rods and crank bearings will be tested tomorrow.

I do have ARP rod and main bolts installed currently.

Any idea what would be causing the crank to not turn freely?

NismoPick

Gotta plastigauge them all...

WanganDevilZ

That comes soon, his hours and mine are completely different, I'm off to bed just as he's getting up in the "Morning"

Meh

Hopefully he has good news

WanganDevilZ

Update? No progress, longest rebuild in the world here. Should have paid someone back in 2009, it would have cost less.

I'm getting discouraged, as with all the other issues in my life regarding my job, classes, and the possibility of actually moving forward with my life, I've barely been able to make a dent in the Z. I thought about moving forward in technology and getting a Z32, but that wouldn't be better on my finances, regarding maintenance. I've looked into possibly getting a DD and having the Z, but why pay the extra registration.

Life really sucks when you have no hobbies, nothing interests you, and all your friends have moved away.

TULSA, Y U NO HAVE Z PEPL?!

NismoPick

Don't buy a Z32 in your emo state of mind. And finish the block yourself. If you have a quality torque wrench you can get it all back together by following the FSM.

WanganDevilZ

I borrowed a Matco Torque wrench from work specifically for this undertaking.

NismoPick

So get 'er done...

WanganDevilZ

The rod bearings look like they have a bit of wear on them, looks kinda like they got tightened too much, should I just go ahead and replace them just in case? On a zero mile motor, better safe than stranded.

NismoPick

Pics?

Builds become nightmares when you don't follow the FSM... You aren't supposed to rotate the crank when plastigaging them. Only rotate when you have applied assembly lube.

WanganDevilZ

They originally were overtightened, untighened, then torqued correctly. Then they were plastigauged one at a time, I don't think all of them have been checked yet but a few of them have pretty significant wear spots on them, pics later this evening, I need to get to the shop where the motor is at.

And they all had been lubed, just overtorqued

NismoPick

I still don't get how this happened...

So you plastigaged a few bearings, took it all apart, lubed it, overtightened, spun it a lot, then took it back apart?

I thought the reason you were doing this at a shop was because you were being supervised? (I'm not being rude, I just don't think I'm getting the whole story).

WanganDevilZ

No, they were overtightened, taken apart, plastigauged, torqued to the right specs, and it still kind of hangs up, it spins a lot more freely, but initially it's very hard to turn, but once you get it turning, it's easy, and yes, everything was lubed correctly

NismoPick

Before you buy another set of bearings, you need to plastigage EVERY bearing. You might find that one or two are out of spec and need to be machined, requiring a diff size bearing.

FricFrac

Z32 might be forward in technology but pray you never need to work on it!

WanganDevilZ

Taking the motor completely apart on Thursday to check all tolerances once more, also with help from the machine shop, who have been very gracious to lend assistance.

Maybe someday, I'll have enough monies to afford a 350z or so-on, and be able to have two cars...

ThaPimpShrimp

Maybe you'll have saved enough to afford whatever their anniversary "240z" will be!

NISMO Stuff: 2014 240Z Confirmed!!! (sort of)

WanganDevilZ

They just need to make the 240z again, carbs and all.

FricFrac

Triple sound wicked and I love 'em on my 240Z but EFI is really the way to go...

WanganDevilZ

Trying to swap out gas tanks, old rusty one coming out, nice clean one going in, along with like new fuel level sending unit.

Bolts on tank straps won't come undone, been soaking in PB blaster all night and day, getting re-soaked every 2 hours or so

Crowsfoot almost rounding them out, can't get long enough socket.

Ideas?

WanganDevilZ

Couldn't get the nuts off, even after soaking in pb blaster, and even after rounding one of the nuts, I ended up just grinding the bolts.

Straps are okay, just need to get new bolts. More tomorrow.

WanganDevilZ

Nissan didn't have any bolts. Period. They don't make them anymore, and there isn't a dealership that has any.

Does anyone have any un-molested gastank strap bolts they can ship to me?

WanganDevilZ

Allllright!

Time to get the Z out of the garage now that it's warm outside.

I guess it's the same problem it had the last time I drove it.

Between about 1400-2200 RPM it kind of stutters and feels like the timing is off or it's missing. However, after 2,200 it feels normal and doesn't have any hesitation, feels like a normal car.

Tech Team Leader at work suggested the TPS or MAF, sound right? I have a few of these laying around my garage.

Niku-Sama

MAF? too new

Air flow meter, AFM...

random thought, did you hook the EGR back up? if you did unhook it from vaccum and cap tat line off when you drive and see if it does the same thing.

i have the same problem with mine if the EGR is still hooked up to a vaccum source, unplugged it runs fine, but mine hasnt been rebulit