Sickening Pictures, very distraught
Sickening Pictures, very distraught
Ladies/Gentlemen,
Today was my first time I'd really had the car on jack stands to look under the car, and this is what I found. I do not know a whole lot about Z's but from what I do from cars this car pretty much is not worth investing money into. The previous owners comment was it was because of being on jack.
To me it is disturbing, tell me what you think.






Today was my first time I'd really had the car on jack stands to look under the car, and this is what I found. I do not know a whole lot about Z's but from what I do from cars this car pretty much is not worth investing money into. The previous owners comment was it was because of being on jack.
To me it is disturbing, tell me what you think.






" because of being on jack" ? Nope, more particularly because it was improperly jacked and improperly supported. Repeatedly. Apparently they don't learn very quickly. The 240 - 280 Z/ZX cars were never supposed to be lifted or supported by the not-really-frame-rails-even-though-they-look-like-frame-rails box gussets. Even says so in the cheesy glove-box owner manuals. They're not structural underneath the passenger compartment (they do help stiffen up the unibody though). But who in the U.S. reads directions? A lot of folks went to start working on these cars, looked underneath and said "Hey, jack goes right on this frame rail." And promptly squashed the box-shaped gussets, breaking the undercoating and letting the rust get a head start. Goons in second-rate garages with lifts did this a lot, too. Lightweight thin-steel unibodies were not nearly as common back then, so a lot of people never thought about "supportable points".
Good news is that they can be pretty bent up and it doesn't matter. Bad news is that the rust may go far enough to be eating the floor pans. An easy "fix" would be scrape and sand plast the rust away and see how far it goes. If there aren't any actual pieces missing, POR-15 it, spray undercoating back on it and call it good. If there's steel that's not there anymore, you can get replacement frame rails that weld right in. That's not a huge pain, though you do have to remove the undercoating and the carpet (fire = bad). You can even get replacement floor pans, too.
Is it worth it? Depends on what shape the rest of the car is in and where you live. If the rest of the car is thrashed, probably not worth it. If the rest of the car is perfect, probably is worth it. If you live in Michigan, that car is practically rust free and it's definitely worth it. I see you're in TX, part of which at least is in the fabled "rust free Z car" area of the desert SW. So finding a top quality Z may not be as hard for you as for some of us. Balance the pain/cost tradeoff (and any sunk cost if the vehicle is already purchased), and see where you fall on that spectrum. Me? I think every Z should be saved, and I don't think those rails look that bad. But I'm somewhat dysfunctional about getting attached to cars, and I don't believe "rust free Z cars" actually exist, either.
good luck,
Dave
Good news is that they can be pretty bent up and it doesn't matter. Bad news is that the rust may go far enough to be eating the floor pans. An easy "fix" would be scrape and sand plast the rust away and see how far it goes. If there aren't any actual pieces missing, POR-15 it, spray undercoating back on it and call it good. If there's steel that's not there anymore, you can get replacement frame rails that weld right in. That's not a huge pain, though you do have to remove the undercoating and the carpet (fire = bad). You can even get replacement floor pans, too.
Is it worth it? Depends on what shape the rest of the car is in and where you live. If the rest of the car is thrashed, probably not worth it. If the rest of the car is perfect, probably is worth it. If you live in Michigan, that car is practically rust free and it's definitely worth it. I see you're in TX, part of which at least is in the fabled "rust free Z car" area of the desert SW. So finding a top quality Z may not be as hard for you as for some of us. Balance the pain/cost tradeoff (and any sunk cost if the vehicle is already purchased), and see where you fall on that spectrum. Me? I think every Z should be saved, and I don't think those rails look that bad. But I'm somewhat dysfunctional about getting attached to cars, and I don't believe "rust free Z cars" actually exist, either.
good luck,
Dave
Last edited by BoulderZ; Nov 10, 2006 at 12:04 PM.
Originally Posted by wgc_3
Thank you for your input!
Where do I find these replacement frame rails?
Thanks,
wgc_3
Where do I find these replacement frame rails?
Thanks,
wgc_3
The same place you find all the Z parts.... MSA, BDA, JCWhitney...
www.thezstore.com
www.blackdragonauto.com
www.jcwhitney.com
You don't need to replace them tho.... and you will regret getting into it unless you are very good w/ body & frame work.
Like I just stated above.... it's not in that bad of shape. Scrape off the undercoating, apply some metal treatment, and then fresh undercoat... call it good.
The metal where it is hollow.
this what we're talking about?
http://www.datsunzparts.com/images/F...rt%20Rails.JPG
this what we're talking about?
http://www.datsunzparts.com/images/F...rt%20Rails.JPG
ya, and I've seen that pic before. I think those rails fit the S30 cars. 1970-78
but that's the same idea.
Mine is in pretty good shape. Its a little dented in the middle but not too bad. My father told me how to properly support the car when I bought it at age 18 so it didn't fall victom to another stupid kid.
...like me...
but that's the same idea.
Mine is in pretty good shape. Its a little dented in the middle but not too bad. My father told me how to properly support the car when I bought it at age 18 so it didn't fall victom to another stupid kid.
...like me...
Nismo's right that you can have a lot of damage/holes to that area and it's still perfectly safe. A patch with glass mesh and POR works pretty well. And the trick of clean, paint, undercoat does do a nice job of halting further rust. The real strength of the unibody is the tranny tunnel, the side rocker beams, firewall, and somewhat in the roof. But I definitely understand it being a bit discomfiting if there are holes you can poke a finger through.
If you decide to go the replace-it route, try Zed Findings, http://www.datsunzparts.com/NewParts/summary.htm. He's the guy who actually makes the replacement pieces. Most others just re-market them. He's got a new site making CA/US orders much easier. MSA, BDA, et al are probably faster (already in country), but you usually pay a couple of bucks for the convenience. Just doing rails isn't that bad, but the floors can be a pain. Pro installs aren't too spendy, especially compared to regular body work (doesn't have to look near as nice, no real paint work, etc.).
Sure looks like a keeper, either way.
Dave
If you decide to go the replace-it route, try Zed Findings, http://www.datsunzparts.com/NewParts/summary.htm. He's the guy who actually makes the replacement pieces. Most others just re-market them. He's got a new site making CA/US orders much easier. MSA, BDA, et al are probably faster (already in country), but you usually pay a couple of bucks for the convenience. Just doing rails isn't that bad, but the floors can be a pain. Pro installs aren't too spendy, especially compared to regular body work (doesn't have to look near as nice, no real paint work, etc.).
Sure looks like a keeper, either way.
Dave
How is the rest of the car?
While on the subject. It seems like the majority of my rust is in the quarter panels. I hope that's not a big deal. It's like I can push my finger through it, but then it hits another real solid layer behind it, which I think is the quarter panels. I found this link on Nismopick's car domain.
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...58_82_full.jpg
The bottom right, near the mufler is where my rust seems to be going through. I don't know how bad this is...
While on the subject. It seems like the majority of my rust is in the quarter panels. I hope that's not a big deal. It's like I can push my finger through it, but then it hits another real solid layer behind it, which I think is the quarter panels. I found this link on Nismopick's car domain.
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...58_82_full.jpg
The bottom right, near the mufler is where my rust seems to be going through. I don't know how bad this is...
Last edited by duowing; Nov 10, 2006 at 03:04 PM.
Originally Posted by NismoPick
Looks pretty good actually... your floorboards are still there!
You need to get under more 280zx's... They all have bad rust problems. Welcome to owning a Datsun.
You need to get under more 280zx's... They all have bad rust problems. Welcome to owning a Datsun.
The Only Real Rust I Have On My Car Is Where The Battery Tray Is Surface Only Of Course. And Where The Chrome Meets The Metal (easy Fix??) Thats Why Its So Great To Be Living In Las Vegas Almost No Rust...
Well the only real rust I have is on the frame rails. So according to yall I am in good shape, which makes me feel better!
Thank you once again!
wgc_3
I was looking at my car eariler on today! And I'm now missing the bar that goes above the t-top (attached to the car not the t-top) , the chrome part! I can not seem to find it on the other websites, any ideas?
Thank you once again!
wgc_3
I was looking at my car eariler on today! And I'm now missing the bar that goes above the t-top (attached to the car not the t-top) , the chrome part! I can not seem to find it on the other websites, any ideas?
Last edited by wgc_3; Nov 10, 2006 at 09:03 PM.
Originally Posted by wgc_3
I was looking at my car eariler on today! And I'm now missing the bar that goes above the t-top (attached to the car not the t-top) , the chrome part! I can not seem to find it on the other websites, any ideas?
Junk yard or www.ebay.com
Yeah I Have Been Pretty Busy Lately. It Seems Every Time I Get Close To Being Able To Drive My Car Something Brakes On It. I Got The Fuel Pump Working And New Tyres On It And What Happens My Starter Goes Out!!!! So Now I Have To Wait To Payday To Get A New Starter And Soleniod. Arghhhh At Least Its One Color Now, A Cheap Rattle Can Primer Job. I'll Post Pics One Of These Days.
Queen of Yachts
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,957
From: warmspott, trollville.......somewhere sailing the seas--fla, virgin islands...wherever....warm water....LOL
hey--i saw underneath my 1986 turbo last time it was on the lift--yours looks GOOD, man. now i wish i hadn't taken that look.............
what up? i just talked to a guy that restores old pantera's. I asked him if he has any rear hatches and he said he has to look through his inventory. If he does he ssaid he would sell it to me really cheap. All I have to do is give him some advise on his newley aquired 250gto replica off of a 77 280z.



