short block
short block
Hello All,
I have been reading this forum for a while. And have been slowly fixing up my project / daily driver 1982 280zx turbo. Currently it is consuming oil, 1/8" on the dipstick per 100miles. The car runs great, revs past 6000rpm, and has good power. It was smoking so I put 20-50 oil in and now it is not smoking. I have performed a compression test, 138psi to 145psi all cylinders. I also performed a leakdown test input 100psi drops to 75psi ~25% leak on all cylinders. I can only hear hissing through the rings on all cylinders. Valves all OK cuz I recently had the head redone. Here's my question. I found a short block on CL with flat top pistons for $150, (Datsun 280ZX rebuilt short block). I want to rebuild / refresh my bottom end. Wondering if $150 for the short block is a good deal, since all the machine work is completed. Also wondering if the E30 crank is OK for a turbo. Also wondering if I do go this route if I should swap the flat top pistons for dished pistions?
Thanks
I have been reading this forum for a while. And have been slowly fixing up my project / daily driver 1982 280zx turbo. Currently it is consuming oil, 1/8" on the dipstick per 100miles. The car runs great, revs past 6000rpm, and has good power. It was smoking so I put 20-50 oil in and now it is not smoking. I have performed a compression test, 138psi to 145psi all cylinders. I also performed a leakdown test input 100psi drops to 75psi ~25% leak on all cylinders. I can only hear hissing through the rings on all cylinders. Valves all OK cuz I recently had the head redone. Here's my question. I found a short block on CL with flat top pistons for $150, (Datsun 280ZX rebuilt short block). I want to rebuild / refresh my bottom end. Wondering if $150 for the short block is a good deal, since all the machine work is completed. Also wondering if the E30 crank is OK for a turbo. Also wondering if I do go this route if I should swap the flat top pistons for dished pistions?
Thanks
#1: How many miles are on the motor?
#2: It may be your turbocharger consuming the oil. Have you checked the j-pipe / intake for oil? Did it smoke more under boost?
#3: Unless you are going to use flat top pistons instead of the turbo dished pistons, you will still have to pull the pistons from that other motor, and re-ring your turbo pistons. You could get your turbo block checked & machined professionally for $50-$150... or do it yourself for free (or the cost of a measuring caliper and honing kit).
#4: All L-Series cranks have the same measurements. The LD28 diesel crank is for strokers.
#2: It may be your turbocharger consuming the oil. Have you checked the j-pipe / intake for oil? Did it smoke more under boost?
#3: Unless you are going to use flat top pistons instead of the turbo dished pistons, you will still have to pull the pistons from that other motor, and re-ring your turbo pistons. You could get your turbo block checked & machined professionally for $50-$150... or do it yourself for free (or the cost of a measuring caliper and honing kit).
#4: All L-Series cranks have the same measurements. The LD28 diesel crank is for strokers.
240060 miles. I got it last year. had the head reworked and it had a felpro head gasket so someone had been there before just no way of knowing if anything has been done to the bottom end.
J-pipe removed. intercooler installed. JWT ECU.. cobra MAF etc.
intercooling pipes are clean no oil.
I did put a new T3eo4 ebay .50 trim turbo with a full 3" exhaust. One thing I haven't done is replace the oil feed line cause I verified that it flows oil without issue. Maybe I should get a new oil feed line with a restrictor?
Any advantage of using flat top pistons over dish. I think I would prefer to stay with dished.
Yea I was originally found a shop that hot tanks the block, rebalences the crank, checks cylinder roundness, etc for $100. Just comparing the two options
Thanks
intercooling pipes are clean no oil.
I did put a new T3eo4 ebay .50 trim turbo with a full 3" exhaust. One thing I haven't done is replace the oil feed line cause I verified that it flows oil without issue. Maybe I should get a new oil feed line with a restrictor?
#3: Unless you are going to use flat top pistons instead of the turbo dished pistons, you will still have to pull the pistons from that other motor, and re-ring your turbo pistons. You could get your turbo block checked & machined professionally for $50-$150... or do it yourself for free (or the cost of a measuring caliper and honing kit).
Yea I was originally found a shop that hot tanks the block, rebalences the crank, checks cylinder roundness, etc for $100. Just comparing the two options
Thanks
Last edited by NismoPick; Jan 10, 2013 at 01:41 PM. Reason: Divided quotes to make post legible
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/gener...-buying-32401/
Remember that as boost (lbs, psi) increases, so does compression ratio (CR). The reason the L28ET turbo motor is a 7.4:1 CR is because at full boost (6.5psi) the CR is ~10.7:1. Now do the math... the L28E flat top CR is 8.8:1, at 6.5lbs boost it would be 12.7:1. At 10psi it would be 14.8:1. That CR is insanely high for a stock L28E, SOHC motor, running 35yr old fuel management technology. The head gasket will probably be the first thing to blow.

Start with reading your spark plugs.
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