One quick question on a dead thread, but I have cut pieces to put on my 260 and i'm all ready.

I plan on buying a pint of Por 15, and this sunday,
cutting out the old pieces (floorpan, etc) ,
welding the new ones in,
grinding off the excess,
then coating the bare metal with the Por15 twice,
grinding then painting.

will this work? or should I use like a bunch of chemicals on it to prep it and stuff?

 

Have you ever done body work before?

 

yeah its me nismo, I just had to take a break and posted in a different forum, but i didn't figure it mattered which rust forum. yeah i'm ready to body work wise, i just gotta figure out whats a good rust preventor

 

Ah yes my young grasshopper. Use weld through primer on the bare metal before welding. Then once you've got the metal how you want it, use POR15. Make sure you apply the POR15 metal conditioner first. Then seal it off w/ some GOOD rubberized undercoating.

 

can i just use this for weld through primer?
http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=MR&dept=2
and instead of rubberized undercoating, just por15 the bottom side and i'm putting damplier and overkill anyways, won't that do the trick?

 

No........ that POR15 "Metal Ready" is to condition the metal... like it says in the description.

You use WELD THROUGH PRIMER for weld through primer.

And if you are replacing the floor pan metal... the new metal won't have undercoating on it right? Put undercoating back on.

This is why I always ask people: Do you have experience in auto body work? There's more to it than just slapping some metal in place. To do it correctly, you have to meet or exceed the factory specs.

 

cool ur jets turbo im a grasshopper and i'm still trying to hop on grass. i'll run to lowes and get some krylon weld thru primer and coat it b4 i weld,then i'll weld/grind, condition the metal, por15 and then rubberized conditioner. sound good?

 

I don't know if krylon makes a weld through primer. You can buy it from an autobody store or I bet Napa sells it.

That said, I had problems with weld through primers. I couldn't strike an arc. And when I finally did, it just burned it all up anyway. I ended up using good, clean bare metal with a very small overlap - say 1/8" - and welded it in 1 inch sections back up to each weld. With such a small overlap it was basically consumed by the weld. I then painted over it with rustoleum.

If I was doing a car over again, I still wouldn't use weld-through primer. I would however, strip the car as completely as possible and use an epoxy primer.

 

^^^ Gotta know how to use weld-through primer correctly.

Indeed you won't get an arc if you tap it on an area that still has primer on it. Weld through primer is only used when overlapping metal (butt welds & spot welds) because there will still be bare metal on the inside touching surfaces. Then on the areas to weld (outside edge of the butt weld / spot weld areas) you need to make sure the metal is clean & bare (just like all welding).

So... the only area that should have primer on it is the inside unseen areas... when you weld, the primer will heat up & expand, then contract & cover the weld when cooling... thus protecting the metal.

 

hey will black silicone caulk be good for re-sealing the interior? I'm gonna go to lowes in a minute if it is...I get my por-15 and metal ready tomorrow hopefully. I only got 12 oz of por 15 and 8 oz of metal ready and it came with 8 oz of marine clean...who needs that?

 

alright negroids i got some shazzalazz crackin and it was really intense. I had por fumes, weld fumes and chew buzzin in my head and i thought i was going to die. but I got this far. wow the old metal burns holes after like 3 or 4 welds, I learned that lesson the hard way. Tell me what you think, it looks ugly in the pictures but I ground it smooth as a baby's butt and it's all por'd now. It does look like some have holes but I haven't taken pictures of the final product.

 

What kind of welder do you have and what size wire are you using?

Smaller wire = less heat needed = less chance of burning holes in 25 year old sheet metal.

A good MIG with good voltage control is also very usefull.

 

the only welder I have has the worst possible wire for this metal: .03" and its flux core so not only does it make holes but it spatters the )$@(# out of everything. But it's doing the job...

 

I think it looks great. As you get used to the flux core you'll be able to control its tendency to burn through. Keep it up, from here it looks like a quality repair.

 

I agree. Its looks good, and dont get to close with the tip of the welder.

 

so what kind of of welder would be be ideal for repair on a car? just wondering cause thats what im going to invest my stimulus on or im thinking about a cup gun. not sure yet.

 

Mother f**k! SEARCH! We have like 3 freaking threads on what welder to buy / use.

 

ok i'll do that but would you recommend a welder or cup gun/comp? so i know which one to buy first.

 

welder. Just use the search button and go to hybridz I was at the same spot you were, if not worse about a month ago, but you have to have some motivation, hard work, and patience and you can weld as easy as you can glue paper. But much much much much harder. Here's today's updaate


Metal Ready

SG Black Por-15

 

A cup gun? You mean one of these paint guns???

#1: They suck... buy a gravity feed.
#2: Welders and paint guns are two different things. Why are you asking which to buy first?

 

wow!!!! whys there so much body work getting done around here?

wow... sorry i dont know my months... this was like 2 F'ing months ago... but it is quite interesting...

 

well while im here....is alkyd metal primer by sherwin wiliams any good for bodywork purposes? it says its for industrial and marine purposes.... ill get a pic tomarrow... plez help me pick with your body shop expertise!!!

 

Well since we're talking about rust, check out my awesome rust repair on my 300ZX. The car was pretty much rust free, or so I thought until I looked under the tool kit. Spare tire well, and everywhere else is super clean, frame rails are clean and aren't mangled, rockers are good, inside of fenders, inside of quarter panels, everything is clean except this...



Looks like the previous owner or the guy before that, got a little carried away with a rust reformer, por or something. use of PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench has managed to turn the rust proofing, coating, whatever it is into a sticky/semi-hardened goop. Anyway a lot of scraping and cleaning I found out that the base metal for the hatch was still in good shape. So here's halfway done.



Hopefully tomorrow the other half will be cleaned and painted. I'm awaiting my new Fuel Door/Hatch release arm to come. The old one is all rusted over and doesn't move too smoothly. Man one quart of rustoleum and some mineral spirits goes along way. That rustoleum is some tough stuff. I can't wait to get this all cleaned up and done so I can sleep easier.

 

I so need to learn how to do body work. I wish the holes in my pans were that small.

 

this is that alkyd metal primer i was talking about

i tseted on a old piece of metal and this is how it looks after it has dried and i sanded it(it seems to sand good and dosent act a bit like latex)